Well all 993s are getting on a bit and the oldest are 10+. And they've been looked after (or not) in various ways by various owners (and some cars have had quite a few.
It's difficult to summarise how a good car should be, but the performance should be strong all across the rev band, the gear change smooth and tight, no clutch judder or extreme stiffness, it should feel well planted on the road with no wandering, steering accurate and full of feel, no creaks and rattles, and a smart interior.
They'll vary in quality in dealers. Have you considered buyng privately? Find someone who's loved their car and pampered it - but still get it PPI'd by an expert.
Here's a useful checklist (originally courtesy of Pickled Piper, I think):
#1 As many do low mileage, annual services should be done and Documented. Check all paperwork thoroughly, map out the history. Get an independent inspection.
#2 Low miles commands a premium, but can sometimes cause trouble, see 1 + aircon etc
#3 You're not 100% safe with an OPC, but fully warranted and certified is a pretty good start, adds 2k-5k to the price. Not much trouble would get repair bills of that order! Hard to find one now, but try the better independents …
#4 Carrera 2, 4, S, 4S and TTurbo, RS, TTS cost more in ascending order, but they are all great cars.
#5 Drive both 2 & 4 to decide that one. 4wd will understeer rather more
#6 VRam gives a wider torque spread, a little more bhp. Downside of later N/A cars is the gearbox change to the US ratios (G50/20), but only noticeable on the track.
#7 Get the best car you can afford, with the options you want. Adding them later costs big time.
#8 Cars up to early 96 should have had their engine wiring loom checked – if on the OPC VIN list it should be replaced.
#9 These cars also need the steering rack brace fitted if they are to run 18” wheels.
#10 Factory shocks (esp Monroe) last 20-40K miles only.
#11 M030 (sports suspension) gives excellent ride/handling – M033 (lowered suspension – M030/TT height) fitted as standard to S models – shocks no better. RS gets Bilsteins, ‘nuf said, along with stiffer suspension bushes, springs, roll bars, engine mounts etc etc.
#12 Big Red brakes (4S, TT, RS) are great, but the standard Brembos are outstanding anyway, especially with extra cooling.
#13 Oil used should reflect the value of the car – full synthetic mandatory especially if standard service intervals are followed.
#14 Alignment critical to handling – 993 multilink rear suspension requires extra setting of kinematic toe – special tools required – OPC or specialist only.
#15 LHD gets better driving position along with usual ‘difficulties’.
Other tips from my purchase time:
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options sticker should be inside front lid - if not, could be repaint job.
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Check numbers match
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Run your finger down the rain gutter, it should tighten towards rear - if not could be major body stuff
The seam beads in front of either side of the windscreen should not be brittle - indicates oven treatment (major paint) without full strip down.
Migration info. Legacy thread was 23835