So at last My turbo wing is installed on my 2006 C2S and overall I am very happy with it! I said I would write up the details for anyone who might want to do the same or something similar, so here goes...
First tip is don't bother!!! Unless you really, really like the look of the turbo wing, there are many other aftermarket alternatives, aero kit style, GT2 etc. I am not a fan of trying to make cars look like something they are not, unless you go the whole hog like Isysman has with his GT2RS turbo conversion, which is fantastic. This was never my intention, I really like the look of a well thought out, classy looking wing on our cars, which is why I started my search at the beginning of this year. I had looked at a few aftermarket items, but there were not many that, for me, were reasonably priced and obviously good quality. I liked the idea of something like the turbo wing that activates at speed in the same way as the standard pop-up, so after a few questions I posted on this forum, someone suggested why not just fit a turbo wing (I think it was Phil... so I blame all this on him :nooo: . It just so happened that someone on here was selling one, in fact Isysman, his standard turbo wing being surplus to requirements following the fitting of his GT2RS item! A few PMs later and a deal was done, a bit more than I was looking to spend but fantastic value for what it was.
After collecting the wing I had to really think about how to fit this to my car! The decklid/wing was in perfect condition, being Basalt black it needed to be repainted in Midnight Blue for my car. I had already done a little research and had found a few people who had retrofitted a turbo wing to non-turbo cars successfully. The decklid itself fits directly to the standard body. What is completely different is the air intake and airbox. The turbo has twin air intakes compared to the single snorkel type on na cars.
started looking for a turbo or Gen2 airbox that I could modify to fit the Gen 1, very few available and not cheap second hand. Again a forum member on here came up trumps, a brand new Agency Power carbon airbox with intake pipe and filters (more on this later!!) The kit was for a Gen2 car so perfect to mate up with the turbo wing twin intakes, the big problem here is that the position of the throttle body on Gen2 cars is different to the Gen1. The Gen 2 cars have a more central throttle body position, whereas the Gen 1 is angled to the right (from behind). This meant the aluminium intake tube needed to be modified.
After lots of measuring for position/angles etc and a good search on ebay I found some 80mm dia. angled pipe I could use to modify the Agency Power item. Pics below of the modifications. The MAF sensor fixing point also had to be removed and fitted to the new pipe section. Luckily a friend who works for a well know automotive design outfit (not allowed to mention) got the pipe welded up for me, and a fantastic job they made of it too.
The other issue with fitting the turbo wing is the positioning and size of the fan unit. On the non-turbo this is offset from the centre of the decklid to clear the throttle body and intake tube, with the central position of the fan on the turbo I needed a more slimline item. Fortunately there are plenty of aftermarket low profile fan units at very reasonable money.
I bought one from ebay for just £17 new! Bargian, plus it looked like it would be easy to modify to fit the turbo decklid.
I had gotten a few quotes from a couple of well-respected body shops in the area to have the new decklid sprayed Midnight Blue. As I expected they were in the region of £400 - £500. I had been thinking of getting some spray gear for some time, mainly to paint the fairings on my Ducati when I eventually get round to a nut and bolt rebuild. I used to be quite handy with a spray gun many years ago, a few friends and I used to spray cars for pocket money as well as our own MG's TR6's etc. However, things have moved on somewhat over the last 30 years and automotive paint is a complicated thing. In the end I bit the bullet and invested in a bunch of spray gear, compressor, guns, hoses, couplings, filters etc. etc. I probably spent more than the cost of having the wing resprayed, however my thinking was that if all went well then I could also spray the front bumper at a later date which would save me a bunch of money!
The first job was to dismantle the decklid and wing ready for painting, without the correct c spanner this wasn't easy but I managed it by improvising a little!! I had read a few articles on how to separate the top wing from the decklid which involved extending it to its max position then pulling upwards hard and stuffing some soft towels to give yourself more space. I would recommend that anyone who needs to remove the top wing blade NOT to do this. Firstly I ended up with a tiny crack in the bottom mounting point, probably from pulling upwards too hard! But also I don't think there is any need anyway. When I came to put it back together I found that with the correct tool, it was easy enough to turn the ram tube with the c spanner to screw back in, so I would assume the same would be true to remove it!
With the decklid fully dismantled it was ready for painting! I have to say that I underestimated how difficult this was going to be! As anyone knows, painting is all about the preparation, the wing was in perfect condition, although there was a strange crazing effect in the pant that you could only see from certain angles. This pic exaggerates the finish, the paintwork on this was otherwise perfect.
You can get this is fibreglass panels sometimes where you can get micro cracks that make their way to the surface of the paint!
You can see this even more as the panel was sanded down, also interesting is how much the adhesive from the turbo badge had bled through into the clear cost, this took some rubbing out.
Once rubbed down I put on the first coat of primer, although it wasn't completely necessary, this was useful for me to get the hang of spraying again, particularly with 2k paints. It was also really useful to get used to spraying the wing and decklid which must be amongst the most awkward shapes to attempt to paint, because on both items you have to spray the underside as well as the top. I made up a little stand for the top blade as this was really awkward, most paint guns aren't designed to spray when they are inverted. The stand enabled me to position the blade at angle that made things much easier.
I had decided to convert my bike garage into a temporary spray booth, firstly because this was as clean a space as you could wish for, painted floors, lined walls etc, however modern spray gear is high volume/low pressure which creates a hell of a draft in a smallish space. Knowing that dust would be an issue I lined all the walls with plastic sheeting to minimise dust being blown all over the place, this helped a lot but the biggest issue was actually being able to see anything. Luckily I had acquired an air fed mask from a friend, you cannot spray this stuff without the right gear.. it is lethal! The overspray just hung in the air though, which after a minute deposited enough paint on the mask to blind me! I knew this would need sorting before trying to lay down the base coat and clear coat.
Some improvisation was needed, in the form of two hoovers sucking out air from the garage through two holes and a large filtered expelair blowing air in! This worked well and reduced the fog of overspray considerably.
I had never sprayed water based paint before, so I was interested to see what the difference would be. I had tried to get the same paint that Porsche use which I believe is Glasurit, unfortunately this is not available in smallish quantities and would have cost hundreds for just the base coat alone. I think you had to buy at least 10 litres!! The paint shop recommended Dyna Coat which was reasonably priced and the could mix as much or as little as I wanted.
Water based paints are sprayed straight from the tub, except for a good stir and filter into the gun there is no need for thinners and hardeners as with 2k. The base coat went on perfectly except straight out of the gun it looks alarmingly green and nothing like Midnight Blue, as it flashes off this subsides a little bit but I was not hopeful of a good colour match. The only issue I had with the base coat was running out of paint before finishing a coat and ended up spitting clumps of pearl particles over the deck lid, luckily I was able to pull them out and blow them over without any permanent defect in the paint.
A bit green straight out the gun.
The base coat only needs one medium/light coat and one medium coat followed by a drop coat which is basically a very light coat sprayed from a distance and goes on almost dry, this apparently orientates the pearl particles properly, this really works as once flashed off the finish was nice and matte and the colour was much more like the Midnight Blue I was expecting!
Base coat Midnight Blue, ready for clear coat.
The clear coat was a little more difficult and took me a few attempts to get right. In the end I think I had just about got the hang of it. I had bought a good quality IWATA gun with a 1.3mm tip for the base coat and clear coats, getting the right flow of paint and air took some time, even with a gun guage fitted. Eventually I realised I was laying on far too much paint and once I knocked this back a few notches I started to get good results. The finish on the top blade was perfect, actually better than the rest of the car, the decklid was good but I had a few imperfections to be sorted which I had expected anyway. One improvement over the 2k paints that became available 30 odd years ago is that they can now be easily rubbed down n polished if you do get minor dust particles or imperfections. Overall I was really happy with the results, as best I could see, the colour match looked good, but I knew that until it was on the car in position, I would not be able to tell completely.
Clear coat, nice, deep glossy finish!
The final thing left to do was modify the Agency Power air box to fit the revised alignment of the intake pipe. The AP box was brand new and never fitted, on closer inspection the carbon top was shocking quality for something that would have can cost around £1000 new!!
http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod1...for-Porsche-997-MKII-Carrera-C2-4--DesignTek/
There was no apparent way to fix the carbon top to the aluminium fixing plate and no way of fixing the aluminium plate to the engine bay other than two tubes that locate into holes in the engine bay floor, similar to the pegs on the bottom of the standard airbox. The fit between the carbon and aluminium was also appalling, gaps of up to 15mm at the base and no way to seal the two together! Considering it should be designed to prevent any warm air entering the airbox from the engine bay I could not fathom out how it was designed to fit together. It is possible that there were some fixings and seals lost along the way somewhere, but I don't think so and none of the images I have found of this unit show anything. I did email AP in the states directly explaining the issues but they were not particularly helpful, and just wanted to know when and where I bought it.
The gap between the base and the carbon I was able to rectify a little by bending the aluminium straight, I also bought some small rubber edge trim, similar to a car boot trim, that I fitted to the edges of the carbon, this made a seal between the two parts in most places. Fixing the two parts together I just used some thin rubber adhesive foam and Pk screws with nylon washers. Not ideal but will have to do until I can think of an alternative, or buy another complete unit. Cutting the carbon and aluminium to suit the re-aligned intake pipe was easy enough except I now have quite a large hole to fill in somehow. I have temporarily fixed this with some heat resistant adhesive tape until I was sure everything fitted ok, which surprisingly it did.
Test fit.
The new fan unit was easy to modify to fit, it came with some plastic brackets designed to slip on to lugs on the fan surround, these I trimmed to suit and glued and screwed into the correct position.
With everything in place it was time to try the new wing on the car. Only four bolts hold the decklid to the hinge brackets, a two man job but easy enough. It fitted perfectly, first time, no adjustment needed.
The only issue I have is that it takes a bit of a push to close the lid, I think this is probably due to the carbon box sitting a little too high due to the rubber trim I have fitted, I will need to remove it to check this is the case, everything else seems fine, the fan clears the box and pipework ok.
Overall I am really happy with it, I think it looks good without trying to look like a turbo, others might disagree!
I had posted previously on here when I fitted the new intake pipe and filters to see how it would run, and that it had difficulty idling. I had the same issue yesterday when it was all together, I went for a spin and did some full power runs through the gears to see if the ECU would re-learn the new airflow characteristics. It seemed to help and would idle ok afterwards but quite lumpy. I didn't have time to fiddle around or try disconnecting the battery so this might be subject to a separate thread! The induction noise over 5000 rpm now is fantastic, really howls like a banshee, also it now seems to get a second wind at around 6000rpm and really pushes forward, I am hoping that I won't need to have it remapped as when I eventually sell the car I will revert it back to standard and sell the wing on!
First tip is don't bother!!! Unless you really, really like the look of the turbo wing, there are many other aftermarket alternatives, aero kit style, GT2 etc. I am not a fan of trying to make cars look like something they are not, unless you go the whole hog like Isysman has with his GT2RS turbo conversion, which is fantastic. This was never my intention, I really like the look of a well thought out, classy looking wing on our cars, which is why I started my search at the beginning of this year. I had looked at a few aftermarket items, but there were not many that, for me, were reasonably priced and obviously good quality. I liked the idea of something like the turbo wing that activates at speed in the same way as the standard pop-up, so after a few questions I posted on this forum, someone suggested why not just fit a turbo wing (I think it was Phil... so I blame all this on him :nooo: . It just so happened that someone on here was selling one, in fact Isysman, his standard turbo wing being surplus to requirements following the fitting of his GT2RS item! A few PMs later and a deal was done, a bit more than I was looking to spend but fantastic value for what it was.
After collecting the wing I had to really think about how to fit this to my car! The decklid/wing was in perfect condition, being Basalt black it needed to be repainted in Midnight Blue for my car. I had already done a little research and had found a few people who had retrofitted a turbo wing to non-turbo cars successfully. The decklid itself fits directly to the standard body. What is completely different is the air intake and airbox. The turbo has twin air intakes compared to the single snorkel type on na cars.
started looking for a turbo or Gen2 airbox that I could modify to fit the Gen 1, very few available and not cheap second hand. Again a forum member on here came up trumps, a brand new Agency Power carbon airbox with intake pipe and filters (more on this later!!) The kit was for a Gen2 car so perfect to mate up with the turbo wing twin intakes, the big problem here is that the position of the throttle body on Gen2 cars is different to the Gen1. The Gen 2 cars have a more central throttle body position, whereas the Gen 1 is angled to the right (from behind). This meant the aluminium intake tube needed to be modified.
After lots of measuring for position/angles etc and a good search on ebay I found some 80mm dia. angled pipe I could use to modify the Agency Power item. Pics below of the modifications. The MAF sensor fixing point also had to be removed and fitted to the new pipe section. Luckily a friend who works for a well know automotive design outfit (not allowed to mention) got the pipe welded up for me, and a fantastic job they made of it too.
The other issue with fitting the turbo wing is the positioning and size of the fan unit. On the non-turbo this is offset from the centre of the decklid to clear the throttle body and intake tube, with the central position of the fan on the turbo I needed a more slimline item. Fortunately there are plenty of aftermarket low profile fan units at very reasonable money.
I bought one from ebay for just £17 new! Bargian, plus it looked like it would be easy to modify to fit the turbo decklid.
I had gotten a few quotes from a couple of well-respected body shops in the area to have the new decklid sprayed Midnight Blue. As I expected they were in the region of £400 - £500. I had been thinking of getting some spray gear for some time, mainly to paint the fairings on my Ducati when I eventually get round to a nut and bolt rebuild. I used to be quite handy with a spray gun many years ago, a few friends and I used to spray cars for pocket money as well as our own MG's TR6's etc. However, things have moved on somewhat over the last 30 years and automotive paint is a complicated thing. In the end I bit the bullet and invested in a bunch of spray gear, compressor, guns, hoses, couplings, filters etc. etc. I probably spent more than the cost of having the wing resprayed, however my thinking was that if all went well then I could also spray the front bumper at a later date which would save me a bunch of money!
The first job was to dismantle the decklid and wing ready for painting, without the correct c spanner this wasn't easy but I managed it by improvising a little!! I had read a few articles on how to separate the top wing from the decklid which involved extending it to its max position then pulling upwards hard and stuffing some soft towels to give yourself more space. I would recommend that anyone who needs to remove the top wing blade NOT to do this. Firstly I ended up with a tiny crack in the bottom mounting point, probably from pulling upwards too hard! But also I don't think there is any need anyway. When I came to put it back together I found that with the correct tool, it was easy enough to turn the ram tube with the c spanner to screw back in, so I would assume the same would be true to remove it!
With the decklid fully dismantled it was ready for painting! I have to say that I underestimated how difficult this was going to be! As anyone knows, painting is all about the preparation, the wing was in perfect condition, although there was a strange crazing effect in the pant that you could only see from certain angles. This pic exaggerates the finish, the paintwork on this was otherwise perfect.
You can get this is fibreglass panels sometimes where you can get micro cracks that make their way to the surface of the paint!
You can see this even more as the panel was sanded down, also interesting is how much the adhesive from the turbo badge had bled through into the clear cost, this took some rubbing out.
Once rubbed down I put on the first coat of primer, although it wasn't completely necessary, this was useful for me to get the hang of spraying again, particularly with 2k paints. It was also really useful to get used to spraying the wing and decklid which must be amongst the most awkward shapes to attempt to paint, because on both items you have to spray the underside as well as the top. I made up a little stand for the top blade as this was really awkward, most paint guns aren't designed to spray when they are inverted. The stand enabled me to position the blade at angle that made things much easier.
I had decided to convert my bike garage into a temporary spray booth, firstly because this was as clean a space as you could wish for, painted floors, lined walls etc, however modern spray gear is high volume/low pressure which creates a hell of a draft in a smallish space. Knowing that dust would be an issue I lined all the walls with plastic sheeting to minimise dust being blown all over the place, this helped a lot but the biggest issue was actually being able to see anything. Luckily I had acquired an air fed mask from a friend, you cannot spray this stuff without the right gear.. it is lethal! The overspray just hung in the air though, which after a minute deposited enough paint on the mask to blind me! I knew this would need sorting before trying to lay down the base coat and clear coat.
Some improvisation was needed, in the form of two hoovers sucking out air from the garage through two holes and a large filtered expelair blowing air in! This worked well and reduced the fog of overspray considerably.
I had never sprayed water based paint before, so I was interested to see what the difference would be. I had tried to get the same paint that Porsche use which I believe is Glasurit, unfortunately this is not available in smallish quantities and would have cost hundreds for just the base coat alone. I think you had to buy at least 10 litres!! The paint shop recommended Dyna Coat which was reasonably priced and the could mix as much or as little as I wanted.
Water based paints are sprayed straight from the tub, except for a good stir and filter into the gun there is no need for thinners and hardeners as with 2k. The base coat went on perfectly except straight out of the gun it looks alarmingly green and nothing like Midnight Blue, as it flashes off this subsides a little bit but I was not hopeful of a good colour match. The only issue I had with the base coat was running out of paint before finishing a coat and ended up spitting clumps of pearl particles over the deck lid, luckily I was able to pull them out and blow them over without any permanent defect in the paint.
A bit green straight out the gun.
The base coat only needs one medium/light coat and one medium coat followed by a drop coat which is basically a very light coat sprayed from a distance and goes on almost dry, this apparently orientates the pearl particles properly, this really works as once flashed off the finish was nice and matte and the colour was much more like the Midnight Blue I was expecting!
Base coat Midnight Blue, ready for clear coat.
The clear coat was a little more difficult and took me a few attempts to get right. In the end I think I had just about got the hang of it. I had bought a good quality IWATA gun with a 1.3mm tip for the base coat and clear coats, getting the right flow of paint and air took some time, even with a gun guage fitted. Eventually I realised I was laying on far too much paint and once I knocked this back a few notches I started to get good results. The finish on the top blade was perfect, actually better than the rest of the car, the decklid was good but I had a few imperfections to be sorted which I had expected anyway. One improvement over the 2k paints that became available 30 odd years ago is that they can now be easily rubbed down n polished if you do get minor dust particles or imperfections. Overall I was really happy with the results, as best I could see, the colour match looked good, but I knew that until it was on the car in position, I would not be able to tell completely.
Clear coat, nice, deep glossy finish!
The final thing left to do was modify the Agency Power air box to fit the revised alignment of the intake pipe. The AP box was brand new and never fitted, on closer inspection the carbon top was shocking quality for something that would have can cost around £1000 new!!
http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod1...for-Porsche-997-MKII-Carrera-C2-4--DesignTek/
There was no apparent way to fix the carbon top to the aluminium fixing plate and no way of fixing the aluminium plate to the engine bay other than two tubes that locate into holes in the engine bay floor, similar to the pegs on the bottom of the standard airbox. The fit between the carbon and aluminium was also appalling, gaps of up to 15mm at the base and no way to seal the two together! Considering it should be designed to prevent any warm air entering the airbox from the engine bay I could not fathom out how it was designed to fit together. It is possible that there were some fixings and seals lost along the way somewhere, but I don't think so and none of the images I have found of this unit show anything. I did email AP in the states directly explaining the issues but they were not particularly helpful, and just wanted to know when and where I bought it.
The gap between the base and the carbon I was able to rectify a little by bending the aluminium straight, I also bought some small rubber edge trim, similar to a car boot trim, that I fitted to the edges of the carbon, this made a seal between the two parts in most places. Fixing the two parts together I just used some thin rubber adhesive foam and Pk screws with nylon washers. Not ideal but will have to do until I can think of an alternative, or buy another complete unit. Cutting the carbon and aluminium to suit the re-aligned intake pipe was easy enough except I now have quite a large hole to fill in somehow. I have temporarily fixed this with some heat resistant adhesive tape until I was sure everything fitted ok, which surprisingly it did.
Test fit.
The new fan unit was easy to modify to fit, it came with some plastic brackets designed to slip on to lugs on the fan surround, these I trimmed to suit and glued and screwed into the correct position.
With everything in place it was time to try the new wing on the car. Only four bolts hold the decklid to the hinge brackets, a two man job but easy enough. It fitted perfectly, first time, no adjustment needed.
The only issue I have is that it takes a bit of a push to close the lid, I think this is probably due to the carbon box sitting a little too high due to the rubber trim I have fitted, I will need to remove it to check this is the case, everything else seems fine, the fan clears the box and pipework ok.
Overall I am really happy with it, I think it looks good without trying to look like a turbo, others might disagree!
I had posted previously on here when I fitted the new intake pipe and filters to see how it would run, and that it had difficulty idling. I had the same issue yesterday when it was all together, I went for a spin and did some full power runs through the gears to see if the ECU would re-learn the new airflow characteristics. It seemed to help and would idle ok afterwards but quite lumpy. I didn't have time to fiddle around or try disconnecting the battery so this might be subject to a separate thread! The induction noise over 5000 rpm now is fantastic, really howls like a banshee, also it now seems to get a second wind at around 6000rpm and really pushes forward, I am hoping that I won't need to have it remapped as when I eventually sell the car I will revert it back to standard and sell the wing on!
