Cockpit Overhaul

[pietrzj]

Hi,
I have a few issues with my guages and wondered if anyone has any advice on how to fix...

Oil Pressure Guage
Most of the time this works fine, but occassionally it drops to zero. Nothing a good tap on the glass doesn't fix, but I can't gaurantee this will work everytime and the novelty of pretending I am flying a WW1 biplane is wearing off, so I wondered if anyone new of a repairer or if they have fixed it themselves.

Oil Level Guage
I have never been convinced this reads correctly and even though the oil is 3/4 the way up the dipstick, it bearly sits above the orange section. I disconnected the sensor (RHS engine bay) and the gauge shoots to full, so the sensor works and its not the guage, but can the sensor in the oil tank be adjusted to "calibrate" in line with the dip stick? Anyone else got this problem or have fixed it? Last resort will be to replace the level sensor in the tank, but are there resistor readings I could take to prove it really is a duff sensor. And yes, I am reading the guage with the engine warm, idling and on level ground - which in itself is nuts as if its warm you would have though the oil is flowing around the front cooler and the level would go down not up.

Misty rev couinter glass
Last one in this thread. The back of the glass needs a good clean as it gets condensation mist in it on some cold mornings. The answer I think is to remove the guage and then the glass to clean it. Any tips on the best way to do this (luckily I have a steering wheel spacer, so I hope I will not have to remove the steering wheel to get it out).

TIA

 

[Gwsinc]

The oil pressure gauge could be as easy as a loose connection, pop it out and give the connector a clean with some contact cleaner or similar. Worth a shot.

The oil level gauge sounds like it's working from what you've said, but the float on the tank is a little misadjusted, if you're confident the oil is up to temperature then you can take the sensor out the tank and give it a little bend downwards, so it pushes out a signal that's a little higher. Very much trial and error though.

Finally the misty glass needs the gauge to be taken out and glass removed and cleaned up, can be DIY'd but it can be tricky to remove the metal surround from the gauge. Haven't done it myself but I'm sure someone else can advise.

Good luck getting it all sorted.

 

[guards red]

Hi,

regarding the misting, this should clear by itself when the glass is warm. if the glass is clean when dry I would avoid taking the gauge apart if possible.

If you must take it apart, the black metal bezel around the face must have it's lip levered up most of the way round. it's not much of a lip, but the metal is quite stiff. It is made harder in that the glass is seated on a rubber ring. A nylon lever/screwdriver works well though you can use a flat bladed screwdriver between the plastic housing and the bezel ring.

When you put refit the bezel you can bend the lip back using a can edge rolled around the edge with some pressure. Then finish off with a nylon drift to tap it flat around the perimeter. It's easier getting it back together than taking it apart.

Its worth thinking about how the moisture is getting into the gauge. When out, ensure the HVAC pipes are all connected and the bonnet seal is good.

Regards
GR

 

[wozy]

Hi,
I have a few issues with my guages and wondered if anyone has any advice on how to fix...

Oil Pressure Guage
Most of the time this works fine, but occassionally it drops to zero. Nothing a good tap on the glass doesn't fix, but I can't gaurantee this will work everytime and the novelty of pretending I am flying a WW1 biplane is wearing off, so I wondered if anyone new of a repairer or if they have fixed it themselves.

Oil Level Guage
I have never been convinced this reads correctly and even though the oil is 3/4 the way up the dipstick, it bearly sits above the orange section.

Misty rev couinter glass
Last one in this thread. The back of the glass needs a good clean as it gets condensation mist in it on some cold mornings. The answer I think is to remove the guage and then the glass to clean it. Any tips on the best way to do this (luckily I have a steering wheel spacer, so I hope I will not have to remove the steering wheel to get it out).

TIA

Imagine a clock face.
The oil gauge should read around the 3 o'clock position if the oil temp is at the 9 o'clock position.... It takes a lot of engine heat for the oil temp to get up to the 9 o'clock position.... So make sure your getting the engine up to correct temp before thinking the oil gauge is not recording correctly. .... Saying that the gauges were never super accurate from new .

Ref steaming up of a dash gauge. That's something that happens a lot and quite often due to moisture within the cabin and moisture is either just a norm of an old car with a small cabin and your sat in it breathing out warm air on a cold day or as was my case it came down to the sunroof drain hoses to the rear had become disconnected (quite a well known problem) which meant they leaked into the rear footwell which got the carpets wet and this caused moisture in the cabin and (especially on cold days) meant the clocks fogged up.
I reattached the hoses and not had an issue since .

PS. Oh and a tap on the gauge does give results .... and I like that .
So don't fix just so you don't have to remember your driving a 30 years old car with basically 60 years tech within it gauges :thumb: