Hi gang. I threw together a quick vid to help guide someone replacing the underbody aircon pipes. I found a couple of useful threads on here whilst tackling it but thought something visual may help.
https://youtu.be/Tyde7r0uzj8
I ran it by deMort first and he's kindly added some pointers:
The a/c dryer .. you fit that last so that its going straight onto a sealed system .. you would need air tight bungs in the open pipes to stop air ingress ..
Its a minor point but you might get picked up on it . - Abe note - this was left sealed until the day of regassing, sorry, didn't explain that in the vid.
The fuel filler neck .. you rotate it towards the front of the car to get better access ..
Carbon canister bungs .. fit them into the car .. spray with wd40 on the inside and then fit the canister .. its helps if you lubricate them otherwise they can just push through .
O rings .. only lubricate them when you are just about to fit them and again new seals are kept in the bag until ready to be fitted .
NEVER try and reuse an old a/c seal .. it swells up on contact with pag oil and will never fit again .
Maneuvering the large pipe out .. it's a bit of a mission on the floor .. might want to make that clear .
The plastic clamps .. when removing its not uncommon for the allen key " bolts " to round off .. you use a trim tool to lever them down .. at times you have to start under the plastic block itself as these can be a pain .
Rear connection bolts for both sides often seize in place .. Never EVER use heat to try and get them out .. the gas / oil impregnated with gas so i'm told when heated will turn to mustard gas .. first world war very nasty poison gas .. it also stinks !!!
It's got a low boiling point as well .. just not something mechanics tend to do .
can't say for certain but thats what ive been led to believe .
Anyways the bolts often have to be cut out .. drilling out is best ..
You must Not damage the rear pipe in any way .. it's an engine drop to replace that one .
Just some things i thought of whilst watching it anyways - deMort
https://youtu.be/Tyde7r0uzj8
I ran it by deMort first and he's kindly added some pointers:
The a/c dryer .. you fit that last so that its going straight onto a sealed system .. you would need air tight bungs in the open pipes to stop air ingress ..
Its a minor point but you might get picked up on it . - Abe note - this was left sealed until the day of regassing, sorry, didn't explain that in the vid.
The fuel filler neck .. you rotate it towards the front of the car to get better access ..
Carbon canister bungs .. fit them into the car .. spray with wd40 on the inside and then fit the canister .. its helps if you lubricate them otherwise they can just push through .
O rings .. only lubricate them when you are just about to fit them and again new seals are kept in the bag until ready to be fitted .
NEVER try and reuse an old a/c seal .. it swells up on contact with pag oil and will never fit again .
Maneuvering the large pipe out .. it's a bit of a mission on the floor .. might want to make that clear .
The plastic clamps .. when removing its not uncommon for the allen key " bolts " to round off .. you use a trim tool to lever them down .. at times you have to start under the plastic block itself as these can be a pain .
Rear connection bolts for both sides often seize in place .. Never EVER use heat to try and get them out .. the gas / oil impregnated with gas so i'm told when heated will turn to mustard gas .. first world war very nasty poison gas .. it also stinks !!!
It's got a low boiling point as well .. just not something mechanics tend to do .
can't say for certain but thats what ive been led to believe .
Anyways the bolts often have to be cut out .. drilling out is best ..
You must Not damage the rear pipe in any way .. it's an engine drop to replace that one .
Just some things i thought of whilst watching it anyways - deMort
