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996 control arm removal

MisterCorn

Fuji
Joined
8 Jan 2011
Messages
9,411
As per the other threads on suspension overhaul, I took the wise advise of the forum and had a go at cutting off the lower arms rather than using a slide hammer. With the lower arm disconnected from the hub it was easy to get a hacksaw in to the front edge.



I then undid the two top supports which enabled me to move the hub forward enough to get behind the driveshaft and repeat the operation on the other side of the arm. It then fell out...



I then did the only sensible thing and put the arm on the press to see how much force it took to get the bolt out:



The answer is about 1.5tons. The bolt looks fine, but as expected dry as a bone.



Toe adjustment arm next, but I have an air powered body saw arriving tomorrow to have a play with, I'll let you know how it goes.

MC
 
Thanks for the info. MisterCorn

Will help when I come to do this in a couple of weeks time.
 
Nice job!

Out of curiosity, does the geo/alignment need setting again after the coffin arm has been replaced?

I only ask as I had a front one done recently and i'm sure the steering wheel is not quite so bang-on straight ahead as it was before, maybe me imagining it.
 
Robertb said:
Nice job!

Out of curiosity, does the geo/alignment need setting again after the coffin arm has been replaced?

I only ask as I had a front one done recently and i'm sure the steering wheel is not quite so bang-on straight ahead as it was before, maybe me imagining it.

Yes it will be out now so will need setting again, I would think about anything else that might need changing before a new Geo and get that done beforehand.
 
infrasilver said:
Robertb said:
Nice job!

Out of curiosity, does the geo/alignment need setting again after the coffin arm has been replaced?

I only ask as I had a front one done recently and i'm sure the steering wheel is not quite so bang-on straight ahead as it was before, maybe me imagining it.

Yes it will be out now so will need setting again, I would think about anything else that might need changing before a new Geo and get that done beforehand.

Damn. So quite a hidden cost in replacing a faulty coffin arm that was done only a year ago. I think (hope) that everything should be OK as it was all gone over properly a year ago, that said, its still creaking.
 
infrasilver said:
Robertb said:
Nice job!

Out of curiosity, does the geo/alignment need setting again after the coffin arm has been replaced?

I only ask as I had a front one done recently and i'm sure the steering wheel is not quite so bang-on straight ahead as it was before, maybe me imagining it.

Yes it will be out now so will need setting again, I would think about anything else that might need changing before a new Geo and get that done beforehand.

As you're in Nottm, I thought I'd just mention Nottingham Alignment in Bulwell. Excellent value & know what they are doing for a quick geo. Not Center Gravity type work, but basic toe, camber etc..
 
edh said:
infrasilver said:
Robertb said:
Nice job!

Out of curiosity, does the geo/alignment need setting again after the coffin arm has been replaced?

I only ask as I had a front one done recently and i'm sure the steering wheel is not quite so bang-on straight ahead as it was before, maybe me imagining it.

Yes it will be out now so will need setting again, I would think about anything else that might need changing before a new Geo and get that done beforehand.

As you're in Nottm, I thought I'd just mention Nottingham Alignment in Bulwell. Excellent value & know what they are doing for a quick geo. Not Center Gravity type work, but basic toe, camber etc..

I do use them sometimes.
 
RXBoxster said:
Why couldn't Porsche put some grease on all the suspension bolts? would make life so much easier. lol

Can you imagine how much all those little blobs of grease would cost?

Porsche shareholders gotta make a living... :dont know:
 
Just a quick update on this. After the above I had removed the lower control arm from the nearside. This was cut off with a hacksaw and took some time but wasn't too bad. I then moved on to the rear toe arm.

The big problem with this was one of access. I managed to get in with a short frameless saw to cut through the bolt and the mount at the rear:



I then slid the arm backwards so that I just had to cut through the centre of the bolt. This was the most awkward part though as there was only a few cm of movement on the saw, it took me ages. Eventually I got through and then on to the press to see how stuck it was:



It was just under a ton to shift it, so not as bad as the lower arm. I then moved on to the other side dreading doing the same, but to my delight both bolts came out without incident, so that saved a few hours of work.

Various parts were cleaned and painted to give them some protection:



Front and rear struts put together:





Then the suspension all put back together. The wheels were lifted with a transmission jack before the lower bolts were tightened. This will all be undone again soon when the alignment is done, so I doubt it was that critical:









I ended up changing the following:

Springs
Struts
Front top mounts
Front top bearings
Front chassis diagonals and support plates
Front and rear helper springs / bumpstops
Front and rear ARB and bushes
suspension bellows
4 drop links
4 lower arms and diagonal arms
Rear toe arms
Assorted nuts and bolts

I didn't change the rear upper arms but they were removed and inspected and found to be fine. I also checked the steering arms and they were fine. If they do need changing in the future at least they are easier to do. I loosened the steering adjusters so that the alignment will be easier to do.

Next job is to fit the PSE.....

MC
 
Looks like you're using your new scissor lift, are you pleased with it. Did it really need all that air pressure to raise it? Santa is still considering it for me!

Mike
 
Cracking job - looks really smart.

Who are you getting to do your geometry set up?
 
The lift gets a huge amount of use, there is rarely no car on it for more than a few days.
I will be using Nottingham Alignment services to set it up, I have used them for years and they are thorough. It will be relatively cheap to do as all of the adjusters move freely. If I hadn't cut those arms of any setting up would have been impossible.

MC
 

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