Porsche 911 UK Enthusiasts Online Community Discussion Forum GB

Welcome to the @Porsche911UK website. Register a free account today to become a member! Sign up is quick and easy, then you can view, participate in topics and posts across the site that covers all things Porsche.

Already registered and looking to recovery your account, select 'login in' and then the 'forget your password' option.

Technical help required - oil leak

Luddite said:
Nick, If having your car transported to be repaired is no big deal, than that would seem to be the way to go.

I have jacked up my Porsches over the years but would not contemplate jacking the whole car using the engine or gearbox casting, that is not to say it is impossible to do so, but just too risky for ME.

Also I have watched at least one equally scary vid of a chap jacking his later Porsche up on one side then leaving it teetering on the one point while he rushed round to the other side of it to try to stabilise the situation.!!!

The jacking points seem best to be utilised if possible. I bought those hockey puck type of "protectors" that lock into the jacking points for my 991, I think they may be available for the 993..? Though from what I remember if seeing your 993 at Porsche in the Glen, it was lowered..? If so that kinda complicates things when it comes to jacking and creating clearance issues when seeking to jack the whole car up.

I used low level high lift jacks my latest one is similar to this.

Clarke CTJ2QLP 2 Tonne Quick Lift Low Profile Trolley Jack - Machine Mart - Machine Mart

Messing around with smaller jacks can be a tad more risky.

On my 82 SC the jacking points were in the sills and not under the car and I placed a scaffold plank across the underside of the car and placed the jack in the centre of the plank and jacked it up without issue, the floor taking the load across it`s full width... Once I had it in the air I could then place my axle stands under the torque tube and lower the car on to those for safe working, though your car will not have a torque tube

Will try to attach a pic taken some years back when restoring my SC up on stands.

If the puck arrangement can be used and a thick strong plank(s) placed between them, then once lifted the plank can then be supported under the area where it makes contact with the pucks each side which should provide a degree of confidence that neither the car or you might sustain damage. Of course chocking wheels and not using a pile of old bricks to support the plank are necessary considerations, but in truth if you are not of the type to get in amongst things there are always risks in getting involved with "stuff" you are not used to, so perhaps best to leave it to professionals... :?:

Thanks. I had set of the pucks designed for 993 arrive the day you posted this!

Finally have some photos. There was a pool of oil on top of the heat exchanger and very wet lower valve cover on left (a bit wet on right also) im guessing the seal has failed, would make sense as it doesn't drip when hot only when the engine is cold.





 
Thanks for responding to my suggestions Nick. It would seem to be a form of relief if the leak is down to valve covers alone, which it seems ageing gasket(s) may be the cause, as opposed to anything to worry about..? My 924 0wning pall had a similar issue which he traced to the lower of the two timing chain covers.

I suspect when not being used the content of the oil tank contents being above the height of the engine, has time to slowly work it`s way down through the oil pump and builds up the oil level elsewhere in the engine and seems bound to find any failing lower level gasket...?

When the engine is running and oil circulating as it should, the amount of oil in lower areas of the engine will perhaps be reduced as the oil pump scavenges oil from the lower parts of the engine to recirculate it, which creates a lower oil level in that area and might explain why the leakage seems reduced when the engine is warmed up and running..?

I suspect this phenomena might be none to unusual in old Porsches, and hopefully a much cheaper fix than other possibilities of oil escaping the flat six... :?:

Hope you resolve your issue soonest and can return to enjoying your 993 to the max.. :thumb:
 
Luddite said:
Thanks for responding to my suggestions Nick. It would seem to be a form of relief if the leak is down to valve covers alone, which it seems ageing gasket(s) may be the cause, as opposed to anything to worry about..? My 924 0wning pall had a similar issue which he traced to the lower of the two timing chain covers.

I suspect when not being used the content of the oil tank contents being above the height of the engine, has time to slowly work it`s way down through the oil pump and builds up the oil level elsewhere in the engine and seems bound to find any failing lower level gasket...?

When the engine is running and oil circulating as it should, the amount of oil in lower areas of the engine will perhaps be reduced as the oil pump scavenges oil from the lower parts of the engine to recirculate it, which creates a lower oil level in that area and might explain why the leakage seems reduced when the engine is warmed up and running..?

I suspect this phenomena might be none to unusual in old Porsches, and hopefully a much cheaper fix than other possibilities of oil escaping the flat six... :?:

Hope you resolve your issue soonest and can return to enjoying your 993 to the max.. :thumb:

Thanks for the well wishes and the advice! Its in with Stuart Paterson on Monday to sort out the gaskets etc.
 
9xxnick said:
Sounds like it'll all be sorted rapidly now.

All the best.

Looks like it, no more drips now Ive mopped the lake up!

Thanks for everyone's input 👍
 
Luddite said:
Nick, If having your car transported to be repaired is no big deal, than that would seem to be the way to go.

I have jacked up my Porsches over the years but would not contemplate jacking the whole car using the engine or gearbox casting, that is not to say it is impossible to do so, but just too risky for ME.

Also I have watched at least one equally scary vid of a chap jacking his later Porsche up on one side then leaving it teetering on the one point while he rushed round to the other side of it to try to stabilise the situation.!!!

The jacking points seem best to be utilised if possible. I bought those hockey puck type of "protectors" that lock into the jacking points for my 991, I think they may be available for the 993..? Though from what I remember if seeing your 993 at Porsche in the Glen, it was lowered..? If so that kinda complicates things when it comes to jacking and creating clearance issues when seeking to jack the whole car up.

I used low level high lift jacks my latest one is similar to this.

Clarke CTJ2QLP 2 Tonne Quick Lift Low Profile Trolley Jack - Machine Mart - Machine Mart

Messing around with smaller jacks can be a tad more risky.

On my 82 SC the jacking points were in the sills and not under the car and I placed a scaffold plank across the underside of the car and placed the jack in the centre of the plank and jacked it up without issue, the floor taking the load across it`s full width... Once I had it in the air I could then place my axle stands under the torque tube and lower the car on to those for safe working, though your car will not have a torque tube

Will try to attach a pic taken some years back when restoring my SC up on stands.

If the puck arrangement can be used and a thick strong plank(s) placed between them, then once lifted the plank can then be supported under the area where it makes contact with the pucks each side which should provide a degree of confidence that neither the car or you might sustain damage. Of course chocking wheels and not using a pile of old bricks to support the plank are necessary considerations, but in truth if you are not of the type to get in amongst things there are always risks in getting involved with "stuff" you are not used to, so perhaps best to leave it to professionals... :?:

Totally agree on the jack front, just invested in one of these which is superb

Draper 31479 Aluminium/Steel... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00HNV3DBW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Must remember to remove the hockey pucks from the car before I drive it!

Presumably there's not much point putting the undertray back on for a 30 mile drive?
 
Took her out for a brief drive today and engine heat stops the leak.

Car is driving completely normally with no warning lights and normal oil pressure and temperature.

Oncw I got home I checked the level with the dip stick and it was fine, a little lower than normal but only a bit and still comfortably between the markers. My oil guage is knackered!
 
nickjonesn4 said:
Took her out for a brief drive today and engine heat stops the leak.

Car is driving completely normally with no warning lights and normal oil pressure and temperature.

Oncw I got home I checked the level with the dip stick and it was fine, a little lower than normal but only a bit and still comfortably between the markers. My oil guage is knackered!

Hi Nick,

That's the exact same problem I have, once hot no leak. I replaced every gasket, seal and rubber O rings I could get to without dropping the engine. My leak as I think I've said is only a teaspoon after a drive. However, mine has been diagnosed as a lower cylinder seal on the LHS bank by two independents. The RHS is as dry as a bone. Top end rebuild for me when I can get the car back to the UK.

ATB :)
 

Attachments

  • oil_leak_lhs_front_213.jpeg
    oil_leak_lhs_front_213.jpeg
    264.5 KB · Views: 1,911
Just a thought on jack choice. A jack that is extra low level and long reach can be really handy when trying to jack up from the centre of the car using a thick strong plank between the two rear jacking points. This is not possible with normal profile jacks..

Thought to post a pic of the one I currently use there is circa 410mm from the centre of the jacking point to where the body of the jack begins to rise, which is usually the point that restricts the distance that can be reached under the car before the jack makes contact with the bodywork.
 

Attachments

  • extra_low_level_long_reach_jack_155.jpg
    extra_low_level_long_reach_jack_155.jpg
    225.3 KB · Views: 1,857
Made it down no issue (apart from snow!)



Dip stick on arrival and oil level the same as yesterday

Will report back later
 
Home safe and sound despite the truly awful weather. Was very glad I had put the winter wheels on last week.

Sure enough the very wet side (passenger) had a tiny crack in the plastic cover itself around one of the bolt holes. The gasket seals on both sides had seen better days also which would explain the seeping on the driver side. Both covers and seals renewed along with new bolts all round so that should be sorted for another few miles

Minor service, oil change and a few other bits and bobs and good to be back on the road without the worry that something major was wrong ahead of what looks to be a cold winter.

Thanks again everyone for the input :thumb:
 
My car had a minor engine leak for a while: L rear & also a few drops off the R exhaust stub. Diagnosed as timing chain gasket??

1 year ago I noticed more leaking from just in front of the R rear wheel. This time diagnosed as the flexible oil filler tube. This tube has a tortuous route through the R rear chassis leg. Tube replaced & no more engine leaks. Tube probably damaged when chassis leg was repaired..... :dont know:

Oh & it's a pig to replace.... :?

Oil dripping from the engine is caught on the under-tray & it's anybodies guess where it will eventually drip. :roll:
 

Latest posts

New Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
124,629
Messages
1,442,299
Members
49,074
Latest member
nzed23
Back
Top