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Switched live power / centre console?

JonnieD

Nurburgring
Joined
25 Mar 2019
Messages
490
I've just got my Top Gear switchable exhaust installed and working via the remote unit on my 997.2 (it sounds great!). And whilst I wait for the replacement switch with the PSE button to arrive, I have a question that someone might be able to answer:


  • Is there a suitable switched live cable I can splice into within the centre console on the 997.2?

I'm being lazy as I know its not that hard to wire back to the fuse box, but it would save me some time.

I did think the live going to Pin 3 of the centre switch might work, as it seemed to be a straight 12V feed but it seems not. I've already got the cable running from the centre console to the back solenoid. That was enough carpet lifting and graft for now!

I have the relay/pcb plus other bits already too.
 
m1kegibson said:
I used pin 3 from the centre switch module (ie the one where Sports mode, PSM button is) in order to switch a relay and change the footwell accessory socket to switched. (my DIY is here: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/1138900-997-2-ignition-switched-footwell-accessory-socket.html)

If we are talking about the same Pin 3, I believe that is switched; certainly it works on my car.

I should add that this power source (ie Pin 3) should not be used to power any significant loads. The wiring to Pin 3 is not up to anything substantial so fine for switching a relay but not much more in my view. I am not sure I would use this to power the solenoids directly without first checking the load they present.
 
m1kegibson said:
I used pin 3 from the centre switch module (ie the one where Sports mode, PSM button is) in order to switch a relay and change the footwell accessory socket to switched. (my DIY is here: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/1138900-997-2-ignition-switched-footwell-accessory-socket.html)

If we are talking about the same Pin 3, I believe that is switched; certainly it works on my car.

Thanks for this. I think you're right, that the switched power from Pin 3 is ok to use. I think I had a connection issue upstream of the wire that I'd run, as when I went to test it and started the car, it threw up a PSM failure on the dash. But I think its probably only because I'd disconnected the battery whilst I spliced that wire in.

I think the power for a solenoid is pretty low, but I will test it. All I'd done was to connect the source to my meter to check continuity to engine bay.
 
Whenever battery is disconnected, you always get a PSM error. Need to start up, drive round the block and it will clear itself. When you start up next time it should be gone.
 
m1kegibson said:
Whenever battery is disconnected, you always get a PSM error. Need to start up, drive round the block and it will clear itself. When you start up next time it should be gone.

Yes indeed.

What was a bit odd was that I drove the car first and no error was shown. But when I'd then stopped, connected the meter to test the voltage from the Pin 3 wire to ground in the engine compartment, it threw up that code plus a spoiler actuation error too!

BTW, that change over valve is rated at 1A maximum current. And that wire from Pin 3 seems to run back to a 7.5 amp fuse, so there really shouldn't be a power rating issue.
 
The wire at rear of pin 3 should be fine for a 1A load.

I am puzzled as to why measuring the voltage should trigger 'failure".

The wiring diagrams I have are a bit confusing but I suspect the fused supply to pin 3 also links to some other control modules so it is possible that something caused a momentary voltage drop and triggered this though how connecting a multimeter (in DC voltage testing mode) would cause a voltage drop is beyond me.
 
m1kegibson said:
The wire at rear of pin 3 should be fine for a 1A load.

I am puzzled as to why measuring the voltage should trigger 'failure".

The wiring diagrams I have are a bit confusing but I suspect the fused supply to pin 3 also links to some other control modules so it is possible that something caused a momentary voltage drop and triggered this though how connecting a multimeter (in DC voltage testing mode) would cause a voltage drop is beyond me.

Yes, very odd.

It's sorted now, but whatever it was, also caused the 10A fuse for the PSM control unit to blow!

I think given this has happened, I'm going to run a new feed from the fuse box, and avoid using that wire.
 
Maybe the multimeter was in current(A), Resistance or Diode testing mode when you initially tried. Sounds like a short occurred.
 
m1kegibson said:
Maybe the multimeter was in current(A), Resistance or Diode testing mode when you initially tried. Sounds like a short occurred.

It does sound like a short, but it wasn't from the meter. The one I use for car things has a separate connector for current and that wasn't being used. Very strange.

I think when the switch arrives, I'll do what you've done and use the Pin 3 switched live for the relay, but take the load for the solenoid from the cigar lighter (that's easy to tap off from the centre console).
 

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