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Durametric Codes - Help

As Demort says 420 code wont affect any performance or cause any issues , often when getting cars remapped people get this code turned off if they have performance exhausts which aren't meeting the porsche requirements - most manufacturers of quality 200 cell cats say this shouldnt happen.
Strange though that it has only occurred on one side - could mean a damaged sensor but again they dont do anything so i say get them coded out.

Very kind as ever for Demort to offer his assistance on his day off :thumb:
 
Demort said:
I think you can even get lambda sensors with mini cats built in these days .

It doesnt matter though as that code has nothing to do with running issues .. its to say the cats aint much good :)

Weathers not that nice outside my house atm but if your that stuck then you bring the tools and we can jack it up and replace them outside my house , have to be this weekend as im working the next .. and it had better not be raining , i hate working in the rain lol ....

And thats not an offer i normally make but you have had your fair share of grief here so i dont mind helping.

lol...appreciate the help.. will keep it in mind..if not i will let you know in passing and would be good to meet at some point..

Went to a MOT station this morning.. the tester said all the readings are fine and emissions are good. this means the cats are working as they should and lamda sensors are ok..

have let wayne know this - booked in with him for the 18th March..

on a plus note no misfire codes today either...
 

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I did actually ask at work today about 200 cell cats and mot .. i was told as long as theres no running problem and you get them warm enough then they are fine .. but if any kind of fault then they tend to fail an mot , where as a normal cat and it would probably pass.

I would take that to mean you dont have a running problem as you have just had it checked .

Time for a map with Wayne i feel :D
 
have sent wayne a txt..no reply

think i had the misfire this morning - as the CEL light flashed for about 10 seconds after the choke went off..

Just a recap

Cats, Exhaust and map done by Topgear:

Random hesitation between 1200rpm and 1400rpm full load

Coil pack and spark plug change:

Continuous hesitation 1200rpm and 1400rpm on full load

Top gear map removed:

Continuous hesitation 1200rpm and 1400rpm on full load
CEL light for inefficient cats (cats tested and are ok)
CEL light for about 10 seconds of misfire in the mornings (random once or twice a week)

Options i have:

Fit standard cats back on to see if this fixes the issue
Get top gear to put there map back on to see if this clears the error codes)

or

Go see Wayne and pay him £400 and hope his map fixes the issues.
 
just cleared these:

Current Fault Codes
P0420:
Bank 1 catalytic converter system insufficient effect

P0300:
Misfiring checksum error

P0301:
Misfiring cylinder 1

P0302:
Misfiring cylinder 2

P0303:
Misfiring cylinder 3



any thought on if a main dealer would be able to diagnose the issue with the proper tools?
 
Not really .. but with the misfire on x1 bank then i would like to see the hi lift solinoid swopped to the other bank .. if its faulty then the misfire will start to be 4 , 5 and 6

To be honest this is very intermitant and doesnt really fit the bill of this failing .. but call it a hunch .. also call it .. Its all i got .. and swop it .

At work and as ex OPC then i would just say it wants one , theres no tester values or checks for it .. again with misfire codes then we start at plugs .. coils .. injectors .. fault needs to be permanent to be able to pin it down easily .. a garage will probably just throw parts at it .. brutally honest there btw .

Im still struggleing with the exhaust and mapping .. but i dont do modding , i have no experience of faults with a non standard system .. so i dont know what else to say im afraid .. its all i got :(

Edit ..

Actually i was ignoreing the cat fault code .. its on x1 bank only .. that would indicate a fault on that bank , running too rich ill guess at ..

Ok either you or an indy swop that solinoid bank to bank .. we have to rule it out , if you do actually have a running issue then the map thats put on might be not good .. er .. i think .. back to the modding bit .


And that really IS all i have im afraid .
 
created a sheet with my code logs here@

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_ZziI0NhUaTSXJmR1N5T3lFVDA/view?usp=sharing

reading up cat efficiency codes can be ignored.. as thee are usually coded out or some talk about using spacers to fix this..

what is the hi lift solinoid - is this easy to get to? can i do it myself?

makes sense what you are saying..if issues are only cylinders 1,2,3. I will call 9m in the morning to see what they quote to swap the high lift soliniod over..and if failure then occurs on the other banks..issue found... ?


still unsure if me putting the standard cats will make any difference..


edit:

variable cam timing?

http://rennlist.com/forums/991/830775-vario-cam-valve-lift-solenoid.html

Wayne mentioned this needs adjusting to suit the new cats...but he is not replying to my msgs...
 
Im struggleing to see a fault with cam timing and no real fault codes relating to it .. along with its so intermitant .. yup its possible .. pretty much anything is untill disproved .

We still have a fault that occured at the same time or close to when this was modded .. so coincidence or not :dont know:

I posted a link about this solinoid a few posts back .. have a read ..

http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=117589&highlight=

You do have the option of getting a garage to sort it out .. obviously they should be able to .. will it be cheap .. erm .. i think not .. and at an OPC .. ouch !

At the end of the day though you need this sorted and theres very little i can actually do or say so i think the garage route might be worth considering .
 
had a read of the link..will go over the last page tonight..but seems like my issue.. lol a common issue!

it mentions i can lift the soliniod using the duramatic code reader? can i do this? is this a good test?

cam timing wayne said is to do with the hesitation i get between 1200rpm and 1500rpm...which was intermittent before the plug and coil change...never really flagged a code..

wayne just said he is aware of this issue when cats are changed..

avoiding garage - as i know these will end up being big bills..

so will sleep on it..and speak to 9m..how much labour time is it to swap the high light soloniod? is the part itself expensive?
 
Had a quick chat with 9M this morning..

they said 2 - 3 hours to swap them over. this is providing they are not seized. If they are then engine will need to be dropped.

they were asking if its the timing or valve to move or both...

little beyond me...
 
If your getting a garage to do it then its probably better off just getting the valve replaced .. 2-3 hours is a bit over the top for just the hi lift solinoid swop so i assume they are thinking cam and hi lift solinoid swop .

Thats wont help as such as you need to do one at a time if you suspect them as being faulty.

They dont seize in , its a round bit of metal in a hole with 2 rubbers seals and a bracket holding it , although you may need a seal replacement as it may leak .. but that can be done later.

This is normally what i tell people to do if they are doing it them selves .

Hmm .. what to do ..

Its purely a guess by me that it could be this valve .. it will be something like 150 plus 1 - 1.5 hours labour time to replace ..

Thats not a guess that im comfortable makeing , if you had more symptons then fine but atm i will have to say replaceing it is NOT worth doing .

Im not confident in my judgement to say spend this amount of money im afraid as i still feel this could all be down to the exhaust system .

Link for you to watch to explain it a bit ..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAEsZy9m_eU

Vario cam + is basically what you have .. a little complicated but hopefully it might explain it a bit ..

http://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/557016-how-variocam-and-variocamplus-works-a-primer.html
 
I'l check the links later this evening..

no mis fire yesterday or today.

i had read somewhere, for someone who was having a similar issue that he noticed it did not happen with a full tank of fuel..

thinking back the few days it did not happen i did happen to have a full tank..like i do now..

so will keep it full above half a tank to see how this goes..
 
Okay..

Yes this is interesting indeed..i have lost the post were this was mentioned...

400 miles on and 4 days - keeping the car above half a tank - no misfile..

I did have a bank 1 inefficient code once yesterday but no misfile..

how would i visually inspect the fuel pump?
 
Interesting , im not sure why a fuel pressure fault would only affect x1 bank but it does sound like its different with the tank full ..

I think this would really be a garage job but heres the instructions anyway .. be carefull though .. lots of fuel vapour .

I think you have a C2 , a C4 will be under the cover in the front luggage compartment ..

C2 .. remove battery , remove plate under battery , unclip wiring plug and fuel lines , slowly and with plenty of rag .. it will be under pressure .

The large round ring needs to be unscrewed , there is a tool for it , or a hammer and screwdriver / hammer and brass punch .. etc etc .. but what ever you use there must be NO sparks .. hence brass punch , plastic head screwdriver .

Lift up the sender unit and disconnect the wiring and fuel pipes ..

You can now look into the tank for any metal or plastic particles ..

Next is remove the pump , it unscrews anti clock wise i think , not 100% on that but either way and it will come loose after a small amount of turning .. remove pump and check the base filter for black plastic particles .

You can instead do a fuel pressure check if you have the equipment , but i have seen pumps that are failing that have passed this test .. i tend to have a look if its suspect these days.
 

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