plavix
Magny-Cours
- Joined
- 16 Sep 2013
- Messages
- 2,524
If I've missed anything or there are any suggestions feel free to let me know. In order to make this as simple to follow as possible I've taken photos of my own install but also used some diagrams from the workshop manual where appropriate.
Part Description: Short Shift Kit (SSK)
Part Number: 997.424.983.00
Replaced Part Number: 997.424.010.00
Expected Price: £196 plus VAT (OPC Sutton Coldfield) as of 6th November 2013
Installed in: 997.1 C4
Also suitable for: 986, 996, 987
Difficulty: 3 out of 10
Tools required: Torx screwdriver, T-20 and T-30. 10mm extended socket. Trim tool. Pump pliers. Marker pen. Locking bridge (included with the SSK).
Tips: Start from the left, then the right, then the centre towards the rear. Bag and tag the screws as you go, or wrap in masking tape and number.
Brief description of install: It should only take around an hour to remove and refit everything. Give yourself an extra 30 to 45 minutes so you can take your time tagging screws etc. All screws are T-20 unless otherwise noted. Remove leather side panels, lower part of dash console and oddments tray, eight screws. Remove gear surround & lever, four screws. Remove rear console, six screws. Remove existing shifter, four 10mm nuts. All screws and nuts are anti-clockwise to remove.
Precautions: None really. You may want to disconnect the battery and allow fifteen minutes to discharge to avoid airbags going off. I didn't bother as it's not really necessary. Also, place each of the panels in the rear of the vehicle on the side they came from, it prevents confusion when you come to put it all back together. Just take your time, use a sheet where necessary so as not to scratch andything and try not to skin your knuckles!
1. Remove carpet panel left, one screw (T-30), which is slightly recessed and hidden by the carpet pile. The screw is quite long. The way this panel looks varies with age of vehicle, type of vehicle and vehicle specification. Sometimes they have a vent with a 12v socket, sometimes a 12v socket and a BOSE vent, sometimes they are plain:
2. Remove side panel left, two screws and three clips. There are three clips which hold this in place on the inside of the edge where the stitching is, one at the top, one in the middle and one at the bottom. I find the best way to remove this is with a trim removal tool or screwdriver behind the rear edge with the glovebox open. Keep the panel flat and try not to rock or twist it:
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3. Remove carpet panel right, one screw (T-30), which is slightly recessed and hidden by the carpet pile. Again, the screw is quite long:
4. Remove side panel right, two screws and three clips. Again there are three clips which hold this in place on the inside of the edge where the stitching is, one at the top, one in the middle and one at the bottom. I find the best way to remove this is with your thumb and forefinger either side of the stitching gripping the very top of the trim, with the other hand pulling from the very rear of the panel where the screws are. Keep it flat and try not to rock or twist it:
5. Remove gear shift gaiter. I find this best by prising up from the rear rather than using a trim tool:
6. Remove gear lever by lifting the gaiter skirt up and turning the shroud around 60 degrees clockwise with the pump pliers. Then separate the lever from the gaiter. Finally, pull the lever upwards, taking care not to knock yourself out or break the rearview mirror in the process:
7. Remove black cover surround. This is only held in place with clips so can be removed by using a trim tool or by prising your fingers between the rear console and the black cover surround. Once it's free just shift the gear lever in to 2nd, 4th or 6th and bring the cover towards you:
8. Remove the Spoiler/PSM panel. This is optional but allows more working space. It's easily removed by pulling from the base. Both this panel and the heater control panel are held in place with sprung metal clips, which you can see either side of the centre dash console:
9. Remove oddments tray, two screws:
10. Unplug the rear console power connector. Now this is rather hard to find as it is fastened to the rear of the outside of the rear of the centre dash console frame. You can find it from the right-hand side footwell, just above the airbag control unit:
11. Remove the silver/grey surround, four screws and pull backwards as it is fixed by two slots, one on the left and one on the right, at the far end towards the footwell:
12. Remove screws either side of the very front end of the rear console, in the driver and passenger footwell, two screws:
13. Remove single screw over shifter:
14. Tape handbrake with masking tapeïŠ:
15. Remove cover below handbrake handle:
16. Remove screw below cover:
17. Lift up rubber cover inside the lid, push down in the rear left corner (the right as you are looking at it from the frontïŠ:
18. Remove the four screws from inside the lid. Only the two rearmost screws hold the base in place:
19. Lift the rearward end of the rear console from the back using the front as a pivot to enable clearance of the handbrake. If you can't get it out because it's caught at the front you forgot to unplug the console power connector, see 10:
20. Mark gear linkages with your marker. This one is not entirely necessary, but for completeness or should something go wrong and you need to re-install the existing shifter there is no harm doing it just in case:
21. Install locking bridge on to the existing shifter by placing down the shifter until it clicks in place:
22. Push the springs up with the end shroud and turn clockwise to lock:
23. Remove the link ends from the housing by pulling them up:
24. Lift gear linkages from the shifter base, again by pulling up. They are quite well seated so will need a firm pull:
25. Remove the four 10mm nuts. Then remove the shifter:
26. Unclip the locking bridge from the shifter you just removed from the car. Place the locking bridge on the new SSK:
27. Fit the locking bridge, Install your new short shifter and tighten the 10mm nuts:
28. Push gear linkages in to the shifter base:
29. Push link ends in to the housing. The link end with the blue hinged tube must be fitted on the left and the link end with the black hinged tube must be fitted on the right. There should be a satisfying click:
30. Turn the springs anti-clockwise and release. Make sure they are fully extended as the link ends will slip out otherwise:
At this point you will want to check that the shifter is centred whilst in neutral so pop the gear lever back on, without the gaiter, and remove the locking bridge. Ensure the gear lever looks and feels correct. It will be shorter and more precise. I got my neighbor to look through the back window to guide. If you have friends you may want them to help instead. At this point you should be complete as the locking bridge ensures correct fitment.
As I wanted the shift to be as short as possible, I removed the locking bridge and spent five minutes or so re-adjusting the linkages by cycling through all the gears. Initially normally and then with force to see if there was going to be any additional play or snagging as the linkages shorten. This will also ensure that you have connected the linkages correctly and not after you've re-installed the rear console and are driving down the road.
All that's left to do now is to re-install everything in reverse order, starting with number 19 and counting down to number 1. Hopefully you labeled the screws inline with the step number.
All trade marks and copyright belongs to their respective owners.
Part Description: Short Shift Kit (SSK)
Part Number: 997.424.983.00
Replaced Part Number: 997.424.010.00
Expected Price: £196 plus VAT (OPC Sutton Coldfield) as of 6th November 2013
Installed in: 997.1 C4
Also suitable for: 986, 996, 987
Difficulty: 3 out of 10
Tools required: Torx screwdriver, T-20 and T-30. 10mm extended socket. Trim tool. Pump pliers. Marker pen. Locking bridge (included with the SSK).
Tips: Start from the left, then the right, then the centre towards the rear. Bag and tag the screws as you go, or wrap in masking tape and number.
Brief description of install: It should only take around an hour to remove and refit everything. Give yourself an extra 30 to 45 minutes so you can take your time tagging screws etc. All screws are T-20 unless otherwise noted. Remove leather side panels, lower part of dash console and oddments tray, eight screws. Remove gear surround & lever, four screws. Remove rear console, six screws. Remove existing shifter, four 10mm nuts. All screws and nuts are anti-clockwise to remove.
Precautions: None really. You may want to disconnect the battery and allow fifteen minutes to discharge to avoid airbags going off. I didn't bother as it's not really necessary. Also, place each of the panels in the rear of the vehicle on the side they came from, it prevents confusion when you come to put it all back together. Just take your time, use a sheet where necessary so as not to scratch andything and try not to skin your knuckles!
1. Remove carpet panel left, one screw (T-30), which is slightly recessed and hidden by the carpet pile. The screw is quite long. The way this panel looks varies with age of vehicle, type of vehicle and vehicle specification. Sometimes they have a vent with a 12v socket, sometimes a 12v socket and a BOSE vent, sometimes they are plain:
2. Remove side panel left, two screws and three clips. There are three clips which hold this in place on the inside of the edge where the stitching is, one at the top, one in the middle and one at the bottom. I find the best way to remove this is with a trim removal tool or screwdriver behind the rear edge with the glovebox open. Keep the panel flat and try not to rock or twist it:
3. Remove carpet panel right, one screw (T-30), which is slightly recessed and hidden by the carpet pile. Again, the screw is quite long:
4. Remove side panel right, two screws and three clips. Again there are three clips which hold this in place on the inside of the edge where the stitching is, one at the top, one in the middle and one at the bottom. I find the best way to remove this is with your thumb and forefinger either side of the stitching gripping the very top of the trim, with the other hand pulling from the very rear of the panel where the screws are. Keep it flat and try not to rock or twist it:
5. Remove gear shift gaiter. I find this best by prising up from the rear rather than using a trim tool:
6. Remove gear lever by lifting the gaiter skirt up and turning the shroud around 60 degrees clockwise with the pump pliers. Then separate the lever from the gaiter. Finally, pull the lever upwards, taking care not to knock yourself out or break the rearview mirror in the process:
7. Remove black cover surround. This is only held in place with clips so can be removed by using a trim tool or by prising your fingers between the rear console and the black cover surround. Once it's free just shift the gear lever in to 2nd, 4th or 6th and bring the cover towards you:
8. Remove the Spoiler/PSM panel. This is optional but allows more working space. It's easily removed by pulling from the base. Both this panel and the heater control panel are held in place with sprung metal clips, which you can see either side of the centre dash console:
9. Remove oddments tray, two screws:
10. Unplug the rear console power connector. Now this is rather hard to find as it is fastened to the rear of the outside of the rear of the centre dash console frame. You can find it from the right-hand side footwell, just above the airbag control unit:
11. Remove the silver/grey surround, four screws and pull backwards as it is fixed by two slots, one on the left and one on the right, at the far end towards the footwell:
12. Remove screws either side of the very front end of the rear console, in the driver and passenger footwell, two screws:
13. Remove single screw over shifter:
14. Tape handbrake with masking tapeïŠ:
15. Remove cover below handbrake handle:
16. Remove screw below cover:
17. Lift up rubber cover inside the lid, push down in the rear left corner (the right as you are looking at it from the frontïŠ:
18. Remove the four screws from inside the lid. Only the two rearmost screws hold the base in place:
19. Lift the rearward end of the rear console from the back using the front as a pivot to enable clearance of the handbrake. If you can't get it out because it's caught at the front you forgot to unplug the console power connector, see 10:
20. Mark gear linkages with your marker. This one is not entirely necessary, but for completeness or should something go wrong and you need to re-install the existing shifter there is no harm doing it just in case:
21. Install locking bridge on to the existing shifter by placing down the shifter until it clicks in place:
22. Push the springs up with the end shroud and turn clockwise to lock:
23. Remove the link ends from the housing by pulling them up:
24. Lift gear linkages from the shifter base, again by pulling up. They are quite well seated so will need a firm pull:
25. Remove the four 10mm nuts. Then remove the shifter:
26. Unclip the locking bridge from the shifter you just removed from the car. Place the locking bridge on the new SSK:
27. Fit the locking bridge, Install your new short shifter and tighten the 10mm nuts:
28. Push gear linkages in to the shifter base:
29. Push link ends in to the housing. The link end with the blue hinged tube must be fitted on the left and the link end with the black hinged tube must be fitted on the right. There should be a satisfying click:
30. Turn the springs anti-clockwise and release. Make sure they are fully extended as the link ends will slip out otherwise:
At this point you will want to check that the shifter is centred whilst in neutral so pop the gear lever back on, without the gaiter, and remove the locking bridge. Ensure the gear lever looks and feels correct. It will be shorter and more precise. I got my neighbor to look through the back window to guide. If you have friends you may want them to help instead. At this point you should be complete as the locking bridge ensures correct fitment.
As I wanted the shift to be as short as possible, I removed the locking bridge and spent five minutes or so re-adjusting the linkages by cycling through all the gears. Initially normally and then with force to see if there was going to be any additional play or snagging as the linkages shorten. This will also ensure that you have connected the linkages correctly and not after you've re-installed the rear console and are driving down the road.
All that's left to do now is to re-install everything in reverse order, starting with number 19 and counting down to number 1. Hopefully you labeled the screws inline with the step number.
All trade marks and copyright belongs to their respective owners.
