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Replacing rear oil pipe on 3.2 Carrera

13 Aug 2003

Does anybody have any advise to give me before i remove the metal oil pipe that runs from the side of the engine below the heat-exchanger and alongside the rear silencer.It has started to leak oil quite bad , i lost 1 ltr in 250miles of fast motorway driving.It looks to me like the nearside heat-exchanger has got to come out!!!That should be fun (NOT).I have also been quoted over £140 for this metal pipe , seems a bit steep to me.Could i get a stainless flexipipe made up by a hydraulic specialist do you think? or would it get too hot!!Demon Tweeks do all sorts of replacment oil transfer hoses , has anybody had any experience of these?What sort of price would a specialist charge do you think to do this job?Any advise very welcome!!

Migration info. Legacy thread was 15349
Hi Andrew, have you had it fixed yet? Is the pipe damaged or is it leaking from the union where it fastens to the engine beside the heat exchanger? You're right in thinking the H/E has to come off, unless there's a special Porsche tool which the dealers may have which might improve access. I thought I needed the replace the same pipe and was prepared to take it to a local hydraulic specialist who said he could do it for a fraction of the price. In the end mine was ok & I had the motor out of the car so didn't have any access problems.

good luck!

Migration info. Legacy thread was 15412
I have a 1988 Carrera (US model). I just replaced the 2 oil pipes that run from the thermostat to the oil tank and to the hard metal pipe that runs along the silencer and into the engine on the left side. It is fairly easy to do yourself but you need very large oil line wrenches (spanners to you), which cost me about $80 for a set of three. The nasty part is getting the oil lines off the thermostat. I had top dremel off the nuts. These lines typically leak at the point where the flexible rubber part of the oil line is crimped on to the metal part. If the line to which you are refering is the line that runs behind the engine, it is all metal and has no flexible rubber sections, so the only way it could leak is if it is cracked or if the leak is around the connecting nuts at the left side of the engine or to the flexible line (right rear of engine) going to the thermostat. If it is leaking at the nuts, try tightening them! You can buy these oil lines fairly cheaply from
. Easy to follow instructions may be found in the Bentley manual. I can email you a pdf file of the relevant pages if you do not have it. BTW, there is no need to remove heat exchangers to get any of these pipes off the car (at least not on the US version).

Migration info. Legacy thread was 15444
Thanks for the advice i have now completed the job and what a swine of a job getting the heat exchanger nuts off!!!I spent nearly 1 week on my back sorting out my oil leaks including the oil tubes & rigid oil line between block and thermostat.And when that job was complete i jumped in to take it for a spin and could'nt get any gears ( G50 Model ) clutch seems to have jambed ,Any idea's!!!!!

Migration info. Legacy thread was 15647
Since the G50 clutch is hydraulically activated, you might try checking the brake fluid level and then, if it is OK, bleeding the clutch. Does the clutch pedal move normally? Anything broken down there? Does the gearshift lever move? If not, you can check the gear selector rod by removing the panel just in front of the rear seat, and also removing the cover over the gear shift rod. Perhaps your bushings have failed and jammed the lever. I changed my gear shift bushings, and shift is a lot smoother.

Migration info. Legacy thread was 15649

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