Preventative 'Maintenance' ....????

[Lig]

Hi all,

So basically are there any such items that should be replaced at approx mileages....? I am thinking Aux items like Alternators and well is there anything else - belts, chains, anything Tip gearbox related that is known to fail???

I used to have a TVR and the first time I took the wife out, it broke down (big 100Amp fuse blew), she is now skeptical about the reliability of my new P&J and i keep telling her they have to be the most reliable classics?!?!

So back to the point, the car has done 108K should i replace anything that may fail soon? I know its a bit of an 'open wallet surgery' kind of question, but if someone posted this on the Audi RS6 C5 forum, there would be a few items such as thermostat and waterpump at 60K, Alternator at 80K, DRC - if this hasnt been replaced yet then keep £2K reserve for replacement Sus.

Any advice gratefully accepted OR it could be a case of on these cars things go when the go and thats that?!?!

Lig.

 

[Zingari]

Personally I wouldn't tinker about with it unless you were having some additional work done.

Voltage regulator (£30) in the fan assemble is worth swapping as it is basically a motor brush that wears over time but only really worth doing if you are going to take your fan and housing apart. Going on experience I'd change the fan bearing at the same time.

Belts will be change at routine servicing so no issues there.

Oil change in the Tip box. Has it been done? Mine was on 54k but 17yrs old with no record of a change. Can improve smoothness.

Got a spare DME relay in your glovebox :dont know: Schoolboy error if you haven't :hand:

Just watch for any advisories and take advice from your good Indy. I was worried about 17yr old suspension that looked quite corroded but on advice I left it alone - car ran straight and true with minimal tramlining. So it not broke dont fix it. Again same story on my 964 with 125k on original suspension but sticks to the road like sh1te to a blanket :thumb:

Keep on top of any corrosion especially on oil pipe unions and gaskets.

 

[clarkycat]

I have a spare DME fuel relay in my Glovebox. They are about £20, can fail, and your car is a paperweight without it.

You see, now I've said that you need one.



Buy one with part number that starts '993...' as they are newer than the ones that start with '964...'.

 

[clarkycat]

Oh, and belts.

 

[stewart rix]

I'd recommend replacing your earth strap (the heavy cable from battery negative terminal to the car body). It's only about £15 from an OPC and could help remedy a whole host of electrical issues. The latest version has a black plastic coating unlike the older 'naked' copper weave.

 

[Red993C4]

If you don't know that they have been done in the "recent" past (relative to their respective change intervals), treat your car to new fluids all round, if only for your own peace of mind and the warm, glowing feeling it'll give you.

Even your air-cooled P&J still has a choice:

- engine oil / filter
- brake fluid
- gearbox oil or ATF (Tiptronic)/ final drive oil (front axle, in case of C4)
- PAS fluid

While the car is on the hoist, have the inner faces of the brake discs checked visually. They do tend to start pitting sooner and faster than the outer faces you can see through the wheel spokes.

Maybe change spark plugs, unless service history confirms that it's unnecessary. May also be neglected sometimes on 993s, since there are so many of them (2 per cylinder and not easy to get at).
The toothed drive belt for the 2nd distributor might also have got the neglected step-child treatment in the past.

Did anyone mention cleaning the ISV (idle stabilisation valve) yet? Do a search for "ISV" in the 993 forum and you'll find more info on it than you'll ever want to know. Also gives an immediate payback if it needed doing.
:thumb:

 

[tim993]

All of the above comments make complete sense - especially the rust where the hint of any bubbling round the glass should be immediately pounced on and then there's the rear chassis rail rot that I'm afraid you will just have to bite the bullet and get done, without any outwardly visible signs there is a problem.

Generally though the advice I get from my indie is that 993s wear gently so that even something that should be done generally does not cause any real problems if its left a bit longer. This is helpful as on the 993 (and maybe most other Porsches?) jobs almost always involve dismantling other things that are in the way, so one can generally wait until the thing thats in the way was going to be moved anyway (if you see what i mean...).

One thing though re the clutch. If a slipping clutch is left too long, you risk scoring the fly-wheel which is a very expensive part to replace if it is otherwise ok. So any hint of a clutch problem and I (personally) would get it sorted pronto.

all the best

tim