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Porsche original sports exhaust not switching

Donstanley

Trainee
Joined
17 Oct 2015
Messages
54
My sports exhaust has stopped switching on both sides, actually on rhs there is a very small amount of gasses coming from the 2nd pipe with sport actuated.

I would appreciate advice on how to access the valves, do I have to remove the rear bumper?
 
You can see/access the the actuators whilst lying on your back ...more comfortable with the car raised though.

Typically what happens is the ball joint seizes solid because of their location to the elements. Sometime you can free them up and lubricate.
 
Yep, get under the car with it running and have someone toggle between modes. Should soon be apparent if the button is working or not.

It's most likely the issue in the above post. But technically could be one of the following:

- Electrical issue with button circuit etc
- Problem at the solenoid actuator / butterfly valve
- Pneumatic problem with the vacuum pipe

Sure deMort can be of more help. Getting underneath and seeing if the actuators are at least trying to move is your first step.

Mine was the actuator, ran round with the car permanently in Sport mode. Then went on a TD where noise limits prevented me from being allowed to use the PSE (and SC off the back of it due to the 9x7 system). This proved too much for the rod on the actuator and it sheared.

OPC wanted silly money for a new silencer on that side. Didn't want to know about a fix, neither did my local high-end marque indie.

Happily a mate with his own workshop and welder helped me to fix it for zero pounds and zero pence.

If yours really is on both sides, guess that's makes it less likely to be solenoids. As chances both would go at same time must be slim?!

Known issue on Pork, moral of the story, keep the moving parts especially the ball joints lubricated with some high temp proof lubricant. Guessing Cera-Tec brake grease probs up to the job. Then use the car not in PSE to keep up the ranges. I used to warm the car up religiously, so I then started doing said warm up with PSE off.

I didn't use high temp lube but would have been good idea. I used to bang some WD40 into the ball joints regularly. Just to try and help keep crap out of it. Never had the issue again but then didn't keep the car for years and years after.
 
Caveat - Mine was a Cayman and reading the linkie above makes it sound like harder work on the Beetle.

That said, the spirit of what I have written stands. Try and garner if the actuators are receiving impetus to move.

Bumper off isn't end of the world, gave me a chance to give the place a right clean up. Part of the arches, heat shields and what have you.
 
Marty has covered it all ..

Ill add some checking details as thats all thats left !!!

The system uses a vacuum to operate the exhaust valves .. engine off , no vacuum and the valves are in the down position which is sports exhaust on .

A visual check to see if they are both down ..

Try and move them by hand .. if you can't move them then one or both valves have seized .

Start the car and they should lift up to the sports exhaust off position .

If no movement check for a vacuum at either pipe .. no vacuum and you work back to the electric valve ( grey ) o/s/r of the engine on the pas reservoir .

I would pull off the vacuum pipes and join together to prove an electric valve issue .

A split vacuum pipe or a leaking exhaust valve and it will loose vacuum and therefore be stuck in sports mode .

Yes .. you really need the Bumper ( PU ) off to get access to these valves .
 
Porsche original sports exhaust not switching, update 1

Many thanks for all the excellent advice.

Bumper and heat guards removed.

Engine not running.
RHS valve open and easily closed by hand.
LHS valve closed, but not able to move by hand. Freed off by application of WD40, so now the same as RHS and I believe correct.

With engine running and sport switch off.
RHS as above no movement, not correct.
LHS valve closed, correct, when engine switched off, valve return to open after a couple of minutes, presumable when vacuum decayed.

With engine running and sport switch on.
RHS valve open ie no movement, correct.
LHS valve closed ie vacuum closing valve, not correct.

So RHS is open all the time, but easily closed by hand.
LHS now moves freely, but is always closed with engine running irrespective of sport switch being on or off.

So different fault each side.

Any advice much appreciated or questions to clarify I will gladly answer.
 
More info,

With engine running:
LHS opens when vacuum pipe removed from solenoid valve, working correctly.
RHS remains open at all times

With engine running:
Sport button on, there is 13.4 volts on lead to solenoid
Sport button off there is 10.3 volts on lead to solenoid, I was expecting zero volts.

So my diagnosis is:
1) Solenoid valve faulty, unless the 10.3 volts is a problem
2) RHS valve faulty, unless there is a fault with the vacuum pipe which I cannot see the full length.

Is the 10.3 volts correct?
 

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