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Please help: 996 T stripped hex bolt!


15 Apr 2014
So my now year long project to restore a neglected 996 Turbo to full health has been a series of skirmishes and battles, but I think I'm starting to win the war!

Latest conflict is a stuck rear wing bolt that has a pin through it to seat the rear wing. They're not available separately from the (£££) spoiler from Porsche and an aftermarket manufacturer in the States wants $150 plus import taxes for a pair! :eek:

There are two in the spoiler blade and they're threadlocked in.

The hex key is 14mm and it took a huge amount of force with an impact gum to get the first out, but it did come out.

I've now stripped the second trying to get it out and it's stuck after rotating a few times and shifting it about 1mm out of its housing.

I have screw extractors, but don't want to destroy the very expensive bolt. I've tried lubrication with no joy.

Can anyone suggest a way to try yo get it out?

Pics starting with removed good bolt.[img]https://thumbsnap.com/s/ZqhSfPX1.jpg[/img]|https://thumbsnap.com/ZqhSfPX1




Not sure how you will get it out other than trying to hammer in a bigger socket but is it worth finding a bolt the same size and get a machine shop to drill and fit a bar through it, surely that's cheaper than shipping them from the US.
Hmmm! What about a hacksaw slot in the bottom of an Allen bolt or normal bolt. I've got a very small blow torch, could you get a tiny bit of heat on there then try putting the bolt down there and turning.. obviously heat has to be done very carefully! 😁
...could it be tapped on the outer edge with a chisel and hammer to rotate? Il shut up now 🤐
911munKy said:
Heat does break thread lock, apply carefully!

Thanks, tried to apply a little heat, but the paint around the bolt started to smoke!
Is it me or is that not a standard Hex bolt? Looks more like a large 6 sided Torx to me. There looks to be a curve on the sides. Could just be the photo though.

I wondered if there was a special tool to undo these, but at this stage, I'd be trying a hammer and a cold chisel in a little slot cut on one edge.
Initially I thought from your pictures that the metal "bar" was actually a locking pin which would need to drifted out to release the screw fitting - I'm assuming that if the first came out and there are no sheared ends to the bar then that's not the case. Like abe996 above, I would be cutting/grinding a suitable sized slot in the end of a suitable diameter bolt and sliding it over the little metal bar - assuming the bolt is decent quality and good downward pressure then all of your torque will be transferred to the fitting without any danger of rounding off. One of the "plasma" discs (think they are about 1mm) that they do for cutting very fine cuts in car body work with an angle grinder should give you a narrow enough slot. Hope you get it out. Cheers.Ian
Can't help with getting it out any further than said above but, once you have I'd be contacting 9apart and/or Douglas Valley breakers to see if they have any from wrecks where the spoiler has been damaged in an accident but the bolts can still be removed
I'm struggling to work this out. I take it it's in to metal and the issue is that you've rounded the hex?

As said above, it doesn't look like a hex/Allen bolt to me. It looks like some sort of weird security torx bolt. It's common to see these with a pin/dimple in the middle, never seen one with a bar.

Either way that bolt looks beyond saving to me. I'd try drilling or cutting the little bar in the hope I could then hammer something in that would grip. If that didn't work its be left handed cobalt drill time.

If the pin in the bolt doesn't go fully through in to locating holes then I cannot see why a standard bolt can't be used to replace them. Either that or get a man with a lathe to make some up.
Could be bar be similar to a spring loaded watch strap pin that locates the bolt in position as it looks as if it extends beyond the screw thread?

Try cutting it in situ, remove and see if you can screw it out.
This thread got me thinking so I googled the fasteners and saw your post on Pistonheads and saw the pic posted on there. It makes more sense now.. so the pin is there for a dzus style fastener to locate down into? In which case I'd definitely try a slot in a bolt or socket cap bolt (I'd be inclined to use a socket cap bolt it will feel more stable with an Allen socket in there) and rotate clockwise and counterclockwise until you (hopefully) feel some movement, I'd refrain from an impact gun.
Hopefully I've interpreted your pics correctly, but may not have. 🤪


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If the thread is stripped it's not going to screw out no matter how much you turn it. It will need pulled and turned at the same time in the hope it catches a 'good' thread. As someone suggested cut a slot in a 50mm long bolt,insert it until the bolt is fully home then heat the bolt.That will keep the flame away from the paint and the heat will travel down the bolt and hopefully melt the threadlock. you'll have to put a pry tool under the spoiler bolt as you try to unscrew it. Another way would be to mig weld a nut onto the bolt,i.e. put a nut on the head of the bolt and mig the hole in the nut onto the bolt.That should put enough heat into the bolt to loosen it.Again,you'll have to keep pressure upwards on the bolt as you try to unscrew it.Good luck

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