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New purchase, 2006 Turbo.

YPVS

Montreal
Joined
17 May 2020
Messages
533
Hi all.

After writing off my daily driver in a flood on the M20 a few weeks ago, I'd been looking for a Cayenne to replace it with and to sit along side my 996 C2 Cabrio manual.

Last week I picked up a 4.5 Turbo in dark olive with Savannah interior and panoramic roof, which were 2 things I was looking for.
It's done 120,000 miles and has a fairly good service history, although the recent garage were clearly Ok turning a blind eye to some faults, specially at MOT time.

I'll use this as a thread covering all the jobs which need putting right.

The list of faults I've found so far include,

1. A burning oil smell when waiting at the junction, which I believe to be valve cover gaskets. New ones have been ordered from Design 911.

2. A feeling of surging and being held back. I feel this might be coil pack related, so as I'm doing the valve cover gaskets, I've ordered 8 x Beru coil packs for £180.

3. There's a clattering coming from the nearside over bumpy surfaces. I've had it up on stands and tapped around with a rubber mallet and inspected everything. I can't see anything loose, nor can replicate the fault. I'm hoping this is due to one of the 3 front suspension arms which have been flagged up on the last 2 MOT's and not resolved yet. I've ordered all 4 and hopefully this will resolve that fault.

4. The reversing camera, even though it raises OK, has no image and the rear parking sensors show double red lights immediately, even though the fronts work fine. Also, the lock on the fuel flap isn't working and the tailgate does not open on the key. I've checked fuse 31 in the right hand dash fuse box and it seems fine. The tailgate opens from the handle and soft closes OK. For now, I've ordered a 6 volt reversing camera from Ali Express, as all Ebay ones seem to be 12V. I'm going to dismantle the existing unit and try to graft a new camera into it. The owner claims it worked until he let the battery run flat. I only have basic Durametric, which doesn't seem to read anything but the ECU.

5. The panoramic roof opens OK and closes almost OK. At the very last stage, the middle section raises, then changes it's mind and drops again. I presume it thinks something is obstructing it so the safety reverse is kicking in. I can raise it by turning the ignition off and back on, then pressing the dial upwards for 5 seconds and it forces it to close. I didn't realise you could do this as it doesn't feel like the knob can be pressed, but it does move about 2mm and will force a close if pressed and held. I'll try greasing up the mechanism.

6. The "Air Suspension Faulty" message comes up and even though it raises and lowers, it does take time and the compressor runs for a few minutes to catch up if you play with it. I'll start with a compressor rebuild kit as they're only £20.

7. "4WD system fault" occasionally flags up on start up. I've also seen dipped beam come and go on the drive. I suspect this is down to a poor battery. The owner let it run flat, which is never good for a battery. I've had it on charge overnight, so will see how it goes. If it is shot, which they usually are, if let to run totally flat, I'll get a 110aH replacement from Tayna batteries for £100.

8. Cosmetic faults. The paint was minging, so I machine cut it with G10 paste, washed again and polished with some decent Autoglym polish. It looks much better now and a lot of the car wash scratches have gone. The rear centre console vents have been kicked to within an inch or their life by kids, so a Savannah replacement is coming from Germany. The head unit knobs are sticky as the rubber is breaking down, so I bit the bullet and paid almost £40 for a new set. The parcel shelf, was actually a dog guard, so I've ordered a second hand Savannah parcel shelf.

On top of that, I gave the interior leather a good clean with Maguires Gold leather cleaner and protector, plus binned the stinky, cheap after shave air freshener, the seller had put in to mask the smell of burning oil.

9. Tyres. Bit of a mis match here and one of the rears looks a but dubious as an MOT pass, with a big chunk missing from the sidewall. When I've sorted out the engine bits and got it running properly, I'll probably Black Circles 4 new tyres. The wheels are staggered from what I can see, yet the car has 274/40 20 tyres all round. The rears look pulled in a bit, so I'll go with 295/40 R20's on the rear, which I believe is standard fitment.

I paid £7797, which Might be a bit over the odds with the faults listed, but it had the spec I wanted, which doesn't come around often and these are faults I can fix. The seller has given me invoices for well over £4K of work in the last couple of years, including Intercooler and pipes etc, plus it's apparently just been serviced, which I presume is just oil and filter. It had plugs last year.

I took the plate off covering the cardan shaft centre bearing and even though there's movement, the rubber wasn't torn, just had a few surface cracks. I'll keep an eye on this and go with the £380 EPS lifetime fix if needed.

Let the journey begin.
:thumb:
 
I'm quite a fan of the Cayennes to be honest .. purchase price of anything is what you are happy to pay so irrelevant as to whether its a bargain or not .

I think it best to say .. i know a wee bit about these cars so issues you struggle with then give me a ping and i'll do my best to help out .

Not sure about a lvl control compressor refurb though .. normally it's a new compressor and there are aftermarket ones available for far less money than the Porsche ones .

Nice purchase imho .
 
Lots of jobs lined up there! But that's part of the fun :D

I love a Cayenne too :wink:
 
deMort said:
I'm quite a fan of the Cayennes to be honest .. purchase price of anything is what you are happy to pay so irrelevant as to whether its a bargain or not .

I think it best to say .. i know a wee bit about these cars so issues you struggle with then give me a ping and i'll do my best to help out .

Not sure about a lvl control compressor refurb though .. normally it's a new compressor and there are aftermarket ones available for far less money than the Porsche ones .

Nice purchase imho .

Thanks!

The compressor refurb kits are just a plastic piston ring and a couple of O rings and under £20 delivered. I saw the Wheeler Dealers clip where Ant rebuilt one. There is no pin connecting the piston to the rod - it's solid. Because of this the piston has to run at an angle as it rises and then drops It has a thick plastic ring with a curve on the edge. These wear and cause the performance to drop.

As it holds height, but the compressor takes ages to recover the tank when you've played around dropping and raising the ride height, I'm going to give this a shot first for £20.

My biggest worry is the slight jerky surge when driving at low speeds. It's almost as if the brake is being slightly dabbed every second or so. I'm hoping it's coil pack related and not transfer case. I'm going to replace the coil packs with the valve cover gaskets and also change the fluid in the transfer case just to try.
 
Well that's a Brucey Bonus!

I've got a copy of VCDS and cable which I bought when I converted my VW Transporter Shuttle to a full on tin top campervan. I didn't realise it works on a Cayenne.

I choose the first type of Taureg in the list and it read loads of modules.

Address 76: Park Assist Labels: 3D0-919-283.lbl
Part No: 7L0 919 283 F
Component: 42 Einparkhilfe 1107
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 3973333D7442B31

4 Faults Found:
01545 - Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Left (G203)
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
01548 - Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Right (G206)
006 - Short to Plus
01545 - Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Left (G203)
006 - Short to Plus - Intermittent
01545 - Sensor for Parking Aid; Rear Left (G203)
014 – Defective

It found 4 faults in the park assist and names the 2 sensors at fault, so these have been ordered for £7.70 each, plus a spare just in case.

The only other faults were with the levelling system as below and an intermittent low beam short to earth.

The steering angle sensor one I might start Googling when I get time.

Address 34: Level Control Labels: None
Part No: 7L5 907 553
Component: LUFTFDR.-CDC- 3C3P1 3282
Coding: 0015511
Shop #: WSC 128452 000 00000
VCID: F5EB7F0D98DA971

3 Faults Found:
01772 - Signal from Level Control Pressure Sensor (G291)
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
004 - No Signal/Communication
01776 - Control Head for Vehicle Leveling System (E281)
004 - No Signal/Communication
 
I fitted a new Yuasa 110aH 950a CA battery today as the old one was not great and has been allowed to run flat. Not bad for £100.

I also fitted a DAB+ /Bluetooth streaming/hands free kit/FM transmitter to the right of the instrument cluster. I ran the antenna up the inside of the A pillar, along the front of the windscreen and mounted the stick on DAB antenna up behind the rear view mirror out of sight. No signal at first until I reset the unit to defaults.
Works great now. Good sound, very small and neat and a lot more features added. Saved it's transmit frequency to radio channel 1 so it comes on automatically.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wireless...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

It's powered by a 12 socket at the moment, so needs unplugging at ignition off, but I've bought a piggy back fuse holder and a 12V to 5V micro USB mini transformer, which I can add to an ignition live circuit and fit neatly in the right hand dash side fuse box, hiding the cables out of sight.

It was also missing a rear parcel shelf and only had the dog/luggage net thing which goes up to the roof if you extend it. I wanted a parcel shelf to keep the boot content out of sight, so bagged a good condition second hand one in matching Savannah colour from Ebay for £85 delivered. I fitted this today too as work dropped quiet.

Just waiting for the rocker cover gaskets which I'll fit Easter weekend. This weekend, I'm hoping to do the transfer case fluid, have another look at play in the cardan shaft bearing support and hopefully rebuild the air suspension compressor.

Mind you, the 911 needs a new pair of ally radiators fitting, so they may take priority. :thumb:

These hangover free weekends are a lot more productive, but I do miss the pub.
 
A few bits arrived today. The replacement rear centre console vents, were needed because the old ones have been kicked to death by kids in its former life. EBay aero wiper blades fitted as the ones one clear badly. The £8 clear fine. Just got to speed test for whistles now as the cover from the old blades won't fit the new ones, so the square pin block is exposed.

Struggling with the rocker cover gaskets. Gave up on Design911 after a week of them not getting parts they don't list as non stock. Auto doc claimed to have stock, ordered them to find eta was 2 weeks away, so had to cancel that order too.

EBay hopefully will deliver German Elring gaskets now, eta Tuesday.

Eurocarparts delivered 7 correct Beru 955 V8 coil packs and one for a 957, which is wider at the rubber seal and won't fit, so I've had to sort that out too. They clearly only had 7 and substituted the 8th, as now they have zero in stock.

If I was as crap in my job as modern internet suppliers are, I'd go bust.



:frustrated:
 
Parking sensor fault on the rear .. it can be individual sensors but start by having a good look at the bumper wiring plug n/s/r .. your looking for corrosion or water ingress in the wiring connection .

1772 .. a code that's infamous in my trade .. code refers to a pressure sensor fault ,, the actual fault is a lvl control pump issue .. new one is required .

It took a while before we figured out the code was actually wrong and its the pressure build up from the compressor that's the issue and not the sensor ...

That's back in the day though that Porsche mechanics had a forum where we could discuss difficult issues ... i had 3 of these at the same time with no obvious solution ... seems simple now though .

You are doing a refurb so hopefully that will solve the issue .

rest of the codes seem to be battery related .. flat or low charge .

A code is only an issue when it wont clear or it comes back after a few miles .
 
Great advice. Thank you.

The outer sensors were absolutely caked in mud, so I will also check the connector on the nsr of the loom. Thanks.

Got to fit the ally rads on my 996 this weekend, but might have time to replace the compressor piston ring and O rings tomorrow if time permits and I don't get tempted to go for a drive.
 
The parking sensors turned up today, so when worked dropped off, I popped out and wrestled the 2 other ones out and fitted new ones without removing the bumper.

Worked a treat! I still had 2 red lights on each rear side at first, then put it into D and pack to R and it beeped and the fault cleared. Backed it up to my campervan and all working spot on. 2 red lights on each side is around 10cm.

Took it out for a drive and can no longer smell burning oil either. The previous owner said he had an oil leak dealt with. Maybe it was just oil which had not burnt off yet? I've ordered the gaskets anyway, but am going to run a bit of cloth around the lower edge of the gasket seals and see if any fresh oil has come out.

Might spend the weekend doing other jobs like the air suspension compressor.
 
And as work has remained quiet (I work on demand, doing IT services), I set about another little job.

I'm a fan of the Bluetooth, FM transmitting, hands free, streaming and DAB+ Radio units, to add features to older head units. I have one in all my older cars.

I bought this little nifty unit from Ebay for around £30. Hid the DAB antenna behind the rear view mirror, running the cable under the headlining and down the A pillar.

I'd been running it from a 12V socket on the dash, but these are permanent live and I know one day, I'll forget and leave it running. I wanted to wire in in as a switched live with the ignition, as there's a fuse board right by that side of the dash.

I bought a tiny 12V to 5V micro USB adapter and one of those piggy back fuse adapters, then set about finding a suitable switched live.
Something odd happens here. I'd find loads which would show 12V then drop immediately to zero. They seem to detect a draw and if there's one there, wake up the circuit. I presume this is CANBUS doing this. Unfortunately it made my Bluetooth unit permanently live.

Eventually, and a tip for others, use empty fuse slot 47 in the bottom left hand corner of the right hand side dash fuse box. It's a switched live and only comes on with the ignition. Lovely jubbly. Another job done.

Just got to fix the 996's radiators then I can start on the valve cover gaskets, coils, plugs and compressor rebuild on the 955.
 

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I started tackling the valve cover gaskets today. Some comical bolt locations on this one! :lol:

Glad I've built up a decent collection of tools over the years and could make something to fit some of the harder to reach E bolts, 12 sided spline and Torx.

Just a heads up, a lot of the oil was actually coming from the seal on the camshaft position sensor, at the front of each valve cover, under the plastic caps. Order these too. Luckily Design911 had some genuine ones in stock and shipped them today. Hopefully with me on Saturday.

5 of the coil packs have left the bottom rubber part stuck to the top of the spark plug with dried up old oil which has become glue like, so I've left these soaking in WD40 over night.

The coil packs on 5-8 are almost new, but some crappy make I've never heard of, so will be replaced anyway. These all left the rubber boot stuck in the plug hole. Oh joy.

The coil packs on 1-4 are all Beru and look original. All 4 had a crack down the full length of the round plastic shaft. I suspect the "local specialist" who looked after his car before me, skived this job as 1-4 is harder to get to with the secondary air pump having 2 comically hidden screws and the torque arm to deal with. The plugs were NGK on this side and the 3 I've swapped so far for Beru, were minging. Hardly any electrode left and clearly past their best. One of the OG coils has left it's rubber stick around the plug. A set of extra long nose pliers will hopefully remove these tomorrow when the WD40 soaks in.

Time to call it a day for now and carry on tomorrow.
I can see this stretching over 2-3 days.

At least the air filters look like new, so something was actually done in the recent service the former owner was boasting about.

In a way, it's good to know it should run better after new plugs and coils, as it doesn't quite feel the full 450bhp at the moment and the 1-4 bank was clearly well over due both coils and plugs.
 

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I've recently done my cam cover gaskets, definitely bank 1 is the hardest! Just have to be really careful replacing the covers as it's easy to damage part of the inlet cam trigger wheel on bank 1 which will cause rough running.
 
I've stopped for the day now, having got to the last 2 x T 40 Torx bolts where there's under 50mm clearance between the bolt and firewall.

My idea of gaffer taping a short T40 bit into a 10mm spanner doesn't feel solid enough and I'm worried I'll strip the bolt, which could mean engine out.

I've ordered a small bit driver wrench which should be a bit sturdier to get a purchase on them in the tight space.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07KFTJ6FM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A careful slow approach now will hopefully lessen the chances of a world of pain.
 
Phew, got the B*stard bolts out eventually. A huge weight off my mind. If it strips, it's engine out time.

The little hex bit wrench from Amazon got a better purchase on the bolts, but at 100mm long, had no leverage. I tried a few ideas such as fitting it in various lengths of ally extrusion to try to make a handle, but none either fitted in the narrow gap or inspired me with enough confidence to put pressure on without the risk of stripping the threads.

IN the end, I realised the ellipsoidal end of the little wrench was a perfect fit for a set of mole grip jaws, so clamped a set of mole grips on to give me leverage. It felt tight and secure enough for me to risk putting pressure on. Both bolts cracked. Once loose, you can remove them with your fingers.

Phew! I was worried about those.

One side is done other than tightening the last bolt and the other side will be built up today.

I changed the plugs and coil packs with Beru ones. During this, the ones currently on 5-8 had white paper stickers on from a brand called Cambian, with dates only a few months old. Something didn't look right though - there were traces of green sticker left where the Beru originals would have had their green sticker. These all left their rubber boots attached to the plug when removed, so after soaking with WD40 and putting a long, thin flat blade screw driver between the rubber and plug, I was able to pull them free with some extra long nose pliers.

Guess what? Yep, the rubber tubes had BERU markings on them. So the people who pretended to change the 5-8 coil packs (didn't bother doing 1-4, even though all were cracked right down the length), simply ripped off the BERU green stickers and replaced with a white, paper sticker from another brand. If I had the paperwork for this service, I'd report them. With date codes of October and November last year, It can't be anyone else but the local garage to where the previous owner got his work done.

Cowboys, yee ha! This is why I don't trust garages or even dealers to work on my cars. Dealers are not what they used to be either, in my experience of BMW.



:eek:
 

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