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My other car: a Mini Cooper S R53

MaxA said:
My little MINI is covered in muck and now wearing its 16x7 Team Dynamics and 195/55-16 Nokian Hakkapeliitta8 studded winters. There obviously isn't so much grip but the Quaife seems to put it down quite well.

My boy is dreaming of the days when the sea freezes over so we can cut a little track out there on the ice and practise driving, sliding, handbrake turns, over- and understeer. He's begging me not to refit the Sparco bucket seat so that his cousins (my nephews) can all also have a go!

You might think I'm mad, but there isn't much harm you can do on the ice as there's no snow banks, nothing to hit and no grip so there's no need to rev it out - it's all about managing the little available grip at modest revs, so I'm tempted to just let him out ... until I get cold, and need to defrost in the car.

Well, we're suffering from the mildest winter in 100 years so no ice-driving for us...

Car is still brown. Although sometimes the dirt freeze-dries and you can juts brush off the top 2-3mm layer.

This is not a country for detailers.
 
MaxA said:
Well, we're suffering from the mildest winter in 100 years so no ice-driving for us...

Car is still brown. Although sometimes the dirt freeze-dries and you can juts brush off the top 2-3mm layer.

This is not a country for detailers.

Pretty much the same here, both my porsche and the mini both look like ive driven them through a field. You wash them and they are filthy again after one drive.

Got an annoying issue with the mini atm. After reversing the car at some speed the other day, the traction control light, the abs light & the tyre pressure light are now all on. The error codes pointed to the front right abs sensor being the issue, so I replaced the abs sensor, and also replaced the wheel bearing whilst I was at it. Unfortunately the lights are still on. Error code now seems to suggest abs pump. Not sure how the abs pump would become faulty after just reversing the car quickly though! Ive ordered another abs pump, so will have to see if that is indeed the issue.
 
rabbitstew said:
MaxA said:
Well, we're suffering from the mildest winter in 100 years so no ice-driving for us...

Car is still brown. Although sometimes the dirt freeze-dries and you can juts brush off the top 2-3mm layer.

This is not a country for detailers.

Pretty much the same here, both my porsche and the mini both look like ive driven them through a field. You wash them and they are filthy again after one drive.

Got an annoying issue with the mini atm. After reversing the car at some speed the other day, the traction control light, the abs light & the tyre pressure light are now all on. The error codes pointed to the front right abs sensor being the issue, so I replaced the abs sensor, and also replaced the wheel bearing whilst I was at it. Unfortunately the lights are still on. Error code now seems to suggest abs pump. Not sure how the abs pump would become faulty after just reversing the car quickly though! Ive ordered another abs pump, so will have to see if that is indeed the issue.

These sensor/wheel bearing issues seem to be popping up a bit nowadays but I've not heard about an ABS pump issue.

I've been suffering from ever-soggier brakes, and probably need new rear discs and pads, and a new brake master cylinder to boot (if the seals are leaking). I was planning to do it all at the same time as the alloy rear trailing arm conversion but it looks like I need to prioritise the brakes first.
 
rabbitstew said:
... both my porsche and the mini both look like ive driven them through a field. You wash them and they are filthy again after one drive.

Exactly. One of the reasons I love the winter is that when it's -5c or so, everythings crisp and dry, and the cars stay clean (ish).

And grip is a lot more predictable than the whole +1, 0, -1c crap when you get water, water on ice, black ice and everything in between ... usually all at the same time. :evil:
 
Since I don't have too much going on with the 997, it's inevitable that there are a few things that need doing on the R53.

First of all, I need to replace the auxiliary belt. This might not seem like a big deal, but that ring of ribbed rubber provides much of the pleasure: the crank pulley drives the Eaton M45 supercharger. My belt is worn, the tensioner is at full stretch, and there's a little bit of slippage at c 5000rpm - not that I get there often in the winter (there isn't enough grip). But it's a job that needs doing. And it's a bit fiddly unless you have three arms.

I should also have a look around, try and find out if I have another oil leak, or at least figure out where the oils going (it never used to consume oil), replace the spark plugs, clean out the intercooler (it sorts of works as a crap oil catch can).

I fitted new rear brake discs, pads and wear sensor, as the pads were falling apart at last, but being rears, they're hard to bed in. I should also do the fronts, but the discs are expensive and I'm behind the curve. I may try to find a local outfit to make up the discs (just the fat 304 discs, as I already have the bells). I got macthing front pads from Carbotech already... and of course the system needs bleeding to eliminate a soft pedal. I may just jump ahead and do new fluid.

I also have a set of alloy rear trailing arms from the GP1/R56 to be installed: these have been marinading in my stash for a while, and I gave them a bit of a clean yesterday. It seems I'll need a new sensor, as one was cut clean through. What a waste. These are a bigger job in terms of installation as pretty much everything is connected to the arms, the strut, control arms, ARB etc.

The advantages of alloy are are the lower unsprung wieght and more adjustment - the sophisticated rear Z axle plays a big part in the handling of a MINI (and explains the lack of space in the back). Hopefully we can have what we call a carage day to pull it all apart and put it back together again. I suspect a lot of new hardware will be required ...

Apart from this, I just need to have my new summer rubber mounted up: my old Bridgestone Potenza RE002s get replaced with Federal 595-RSRs in the same size (205/50-16) and 220 treadwear rating so they're robust enough for a bit of wet track work and have enough grooves to move some water out.

And then I need to swap back to full "summer mode": removal of the rear seats (saves weight, adds space), and the driver's seat, to be replaced by the fixed back Sparco EvoII again.
 
Good luck fitting those rear R56 arms. I had a good look at mine when i fitted the whiteline adjustable rear ARB and the bolts looked very corroded and hard to get to so I put that mod towards the bottom of my list.

I have nearly given up on my R53 atm. Still got ABS light on and MOT has now expired. I cant re-test it until I fix it. The ECU is not seeing any reading from the front right hand wheel. Ive tried 2 different abs sensors, 2 different wheel bearings incl genuine BMW. Ive checked all the wiring from the sensors to the abs pump and they are fine - put a continuity tester on them. Ive replaced the ABS pump for another one and still no luck. Argh.
 
Thanks for this Guys :thumb:

I'm looking at buying a Cooper S, Having owned a 1275 GT in 1989, "FIRST CAR" White with Browm Vinyl leather look roof i thought i'd ticked the MINI list but it would appear not,

I have found a Cooper S, R53 ? Just below 50K with 1 owner !!!!!!
FULL dealer service history,
NO Mods what so ever, £3,250 and the seller who is NOT shifting on price, he is self isolating so i cant buy it yet any way.......

Bog Standard and ripe for a UJ roof...... Small pulley, Intercooler, Air Filter.

Learning so much just by reading thro this insightful thread.....

Thanks.....

:thumbs:
 
rabbitstew said:
Good luck fitting those rear R56 arms. I had a good look at mine when i fitted the whiteline adjustable rear ARB and the bolts looked very corroded and hard to get to so I put that mod towards the bottom of my list.

I have nearly given up on my R53 atm. Still got ABS light on and MOT has now expired. I cant re-test it until I fix it. The ECU is not seeing any reading from the front right hand wheel. Ive tried 2 different abs sensors, 2 different wheel bearings incl genuine BMW. Ive checked all the wiring from the sensors to the abs pump and they are fine - put a continuity tester on them. Ive replaced the ABS pump for another one and still no luck. Argh.

I hear you on the 'bottom of the list' issue, but eventually you do get to the bottom - there's some talent in the team so let's see how far we get when all this physical-distancing (self isolation) comes to an end. It's not urgent, but interesting.

I don't want to diagnose issues on the internet, but did you think of the ECU? Can you try temporary a swap with another car? I think you can pick up replacements on ebay... just thinking aloud here.
 
C4Silver said:
Thanks for this Guys :thumb:

I'm looking at buying a Cooper S, Having owned a 1275 GT in 1989, "FIRST CAR" White with Browm Vinyl leather look roof i thought i'd ticked the MINI list but it would appear not,

I have found a Cooper S, R53 ? Just below 50K with 1 owner !!!!!!
FULL dealer service history,
NO Mods what so ever, £3,250 and the seller who is NOT shifting on price, he is self isolating so i cant buy it yet any way.......

Bog Standard and ripe for a UJ roof...... Small pulley, Intercooler, Air Filter.

Learning so much just by reading thro this insightful thread.....

Thanks.....

:thumbs:

Thats strong money but hopefully a good example by the sounds of it. Have to workout though what the potential spend on mods like the pulley, intercooler etc would cost compared to buying a JCW which already would have similar performance.

They are cracking fun little cars and great to work on.
 
I agree, it is strong Money and i havent seen it in the flesh yet, There are plenty around the £1,500 - £2,500 Mark that have Minimum 96,000 miles up to 185,000.

I think as this is a 1 Owner Low miles he wants the earth, I did what i normally do, Looked at it and immediately thought £2,250 - £2,500 TOPS ! To find he wouldnt even budge on the £3,250 asking price "I even pointed out we were in grasp of a pandemic" in an attempt to appeal to his better side....

"If sells it sells, If i have to wait 3 Months then i'll wait"

Which is more or the less the Exact same stance the bloke took when i Bought my 911, If it sells this year it sells if not i'll sell it next year !

The worst kind of seller,

A similar age mileage 75,000 JCW is about £5,500 up to £6,000
 
C4Silver said:
Thanks for this Guys :thumb:

I'm looking at buying a Cooper S, Having owned a 1275 GT in 1989, "FIRST CAR" White with Browm Vinyl leather look roof i thought i'd ticked the MINI list but it would appear not,

I have found a Cooper S, R53 ? Just below 50K with 1 owner !!!!!!
FULL dealer service history,
NO Mods what so ever, £3,250 and the seller who is NOT shifting on price, he is self isolating so i cant buy it yet any way.......

Bog Standard and ripe for a UJ roof...... Small pulley, Intercooler, Air Filter.

Learning so much just by reading thro this insightful thread.....

Thanks.....

:thumbs:

A one-owner and unmodified R53? Interesting. That's still strong money though, for a car that's going to need a suspension overhaul, and a fair bit of preventative maintenance (fuel filter, gearbox oil, supercharger service, new front wishbone bushes, and all the other stuff that isn't on the official maintenance schedule etc.). I'm sure a deal can be done though.
 
rabbitstew said:
Thats strong money but hopefully a good example by the sounds of it. Have to workout though what the potential spend on mods like the pulley, intercooler etc would cost compared to buying a JCW which already would have similar performance.

They are cracking fun little cars and great to work on.

An R53 JCW has an 11% pulley, 380cc injectors, slightly revised head, new airbox, catback, R56 brakes and map for 200/210bhp. A lot of the typical JCW parts needed to be added at great cost from BMW.

If you modify an R53 you tend to add a 15% (or 17%) reduction pulley, cold air intake, and bigger intercooler for similar power, but the roughly 3k in difference in value suggests that youà¤d have a budget for upgraded brakes (the R56 S jobs are a bolt on), some decent coilovers, and a lot more power with a decent manifold (the biggest restriction), hotter cam, 550cc injectors, and a remap... if you can be bothered.

A friend of mine has an R53 JCW but the only Works parts left on it are the front brake calipers and the badges.
 
Hi

I have been looking at these and was wondering how hard people are hit by Insurance companies when disclosing modifications? These days anything not disclosed allows them to reject a claim. And we all know what they are like.

All the best

Berni
 
berni29 said:
Hi

I have been looking at these and was wondering how hard people are hit by Insurance companies when disclosing modifications? These days anything not disclosed allows them to reject a claim. And we all know what they are like.

All the best

Berni

You need to find the right insurer and disclose your modifications. If you look at a forum (say minitorque.com) or nowadays an fb page (R53OwnersClub), there's plenty of discussion.
 
berni29 said:
Hi

I have been looking at these and was wondering how hard people are hit by Insurance companies when disclosing modifications? These days anything not disclosed allows them to reject a claim. And we all know what they are like.

All the best

Berni

When i was younger I found Insurance companies would go mental at any modification, even a sports exhaust. However on my 997 turbo, the modifications seem to have reduced the premium. This year for example, I was being quoted £500 for a standard car or £385 a year for declaring all the modifications. And that was with a normal main stream Insurance company - not a specialist.
 

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