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Jacking up a 993 ...

clipstone

Imola
Joined
28 Feb 2006
Messages
834
Well with the bank holiday on us and my new wheels burning a hole in my conservatory (or should that be the wife staring at me with that "if you don't move those f'ing wheels" look) I am aiming to fit them tomorrow :D
. This causes me 2 concerns, as a typically useless car DIYer:

1. Where should I position the trolley jack under the car to avoid any damage - before anyone suggests RTFM, I have, and remain completely bemused - if someone has a picture of the jack points (with a big arrow ideally) that would be a great help :oops:

2. I presume nothing nasty will happen when I take the wheel off - ie, it is as simple as unscrewing the bolts + remove old wheel + add new wheel + replace bolts = job done? No wheel retaining devices or anything of that nature?



Any help that can be given to this definite non-Kwikfitter would be greatly appreciated!!


Migration info. Legacy thread was 130430
 
http://p-car.com/diy/jack/

Although don't try to put the jack under the engine if you still have the engine undertray in place (Americans are obsessed with removing this). There are rear jacking points too. You can't miss them because they are the things poking out of the plastic sill covers underneath.

You won't need axle stands unless you are going to be lying under the car.

Evil Jacks top tip: Loosen wheel nuts before jacking up.

Make sure you tighten all nuts again with the wheels on the ground!!!!!!

Migration info. Legacy thread was 130448
 
Turbo Look IIs, as fitted to the 996 Turbo and C4S.

Actually they are replicas as the OEMs are in the wrong off-set, but they look pretty good from what I can see. The wheels on at the mo are reps in any event so as I see it there is no net difference, bar the new wheels are bright and (so far) unscratched, as opposed to being battered like the current ones!


Migration info. Legacy thread was 130453
 
Previous poster said:
Quote: Originally posted by Evil Jack on 05 April 2007

http://p-car.com/diy/jack/
Although don't try to put the jack under the engine if you still have the engine undertray in place (Americans are obsessed with removing this). There are rear jacking points too. You can't miss them because they are the things poking out of the plastic sill covers underneath.You won't need axle stands unless you are going to be lying under the car.Evil Jacks top tip: Loosen wheel nuts before jacking up.Make sure you tighten all nuts again with the wheels on the ground!!!!!!


Cheers Jack - looks reas simple ... I take it there the wheels just come off like a normal wheel on any other car, with no hidden surprises?

Migration info. Legacy thread was 130455
 
Previous poster said:
Quote: Originally posted by clipstone on 05 April 2007

Turbo Look IIs, as fitted to the 996 Turbo and C4S.

Actually they are replicas as the OEMs are in the wrong off-set, but they look pretty good from what I can see. The wheels on at the mo are reps in any event so as I see it there is no net difference, bar the new wheels are bright and (so far) unscratched, as opposed to being battered like the current ones!
Don't forget the pictures ! before and after !




Migration info. Legacy thread was 130456
 
If you're looking to improve little details, I found that replacing all the bolts for new black ones, and using a 'soft socket' from then on (remembering to hand it to your tech for service etc) made the wheels look tidier.

If you prod and tap around under the floor, I generally work on the basis that what sounds "solid" as opposed to thin/hollow is a safe bet as a jacking point.


Migration info. Legacy thread was 130457
 

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