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Is my oil too cold?

kerb scraper

Nurburgring
Joined
25 May 2012
Messages
395
Yesterday evening I drove about 30 miles up the M1 at just about the legal limit and sometimes the 'actual speed limit' if you know what I mean :)

The car was going really well but the oil temp seems a bit low:


The pic was taken at idle sitting on my driveway. Outside temp was 12 degrees C. Could this be a malfunctioning oil thermostat? I've noticed that on first start up after a few days there is a slight gurgling noise just behind my head which would be the oil moving in the tank in the o/s rear wheelarch?

Unfortunately it was raining so my freshly cleaned engine bay and wheelarches are dirty :sad:
 
That seems OK, and the gurgling is normal too.

If you want to worry about your car, you need a 996!

:)
 
I would also say 'normal' - if you are cruising on the motorway then cooling is at a maximum and engine workload is at a minimum.
 
Lol I think you have gone through the same thought process as I did at first whilst getting used to the unique nature of oil cooling.

I think part of the problem is being used to water cooled and seeing a water temp gauge go to mid way quickly and stay there. You have remember that a water temp gauge has quite a buffer range that reads "normal" / midway ie the actual water temp can vary by quite a margin in driving yet the gauge always shows the same. With an oil temp gauge it is not the same and so you have to get used to different "norms" and fluctuations depending on many factors mainly around driving type and to some extent ambient temperature (I'm assuming that bit as I have no real experience of winter driving an oil cooled car yet).

I was amazed in our relatively hot (for us) summer how little mine needed to operate the oil rad and then how quickly the temp dropped when it did.
 
It's even funnier when you consider I've owned my 993 since 2001 :lol:

Now she's ageing a bit, I'm taking much more interest in how it all works and learning so much from you guys on this forum; for example I hadn't even realised there was a fan on the oil cooler. I don't remember ever hearing any fans running under the wheelarches so that's another job on 'the list'.

Experience of driving her in winter is pretty limited as she's usually tucked up under the cover when it's cold and wet. This w/e was an exception as the daily driver Range Rover Sport is just starting it's second week at the transmission specialists having the torque converter replaced
 
kerb scraper said:
I hadn't even realised there was a fan on the oil cooler. I don't remember ever hearing any fans running under the wheelarches so that's another job on 'the list'.

Make yourself up a piece of wire with two spade-connectors, one at each end.

Pop the top off the fusebox and follow these instructions :thumb:

From P-car. http://p-car.com/diy/fan/

Caution: Keep in mind the relay terminals are energized (12V).
-Remove relay R04 (oil cooler blower).
-Jump terminals 3(30) and 7(87c) for slow speed. Fan should run, even with the ignition off. If the fan runs in slow speed, your ballast resistor should be okay.
-Jump terminals 3(30) and 5(87) for fast speed. Fan should run, even with the ignition off.

You can check the A/C condenser fan similarly, removing relay R14.
 
Straight up!

Whilst you are at it, would you mind awfully if you centered your dash-illumination dial too?

The 270 deg jauntiness is putting me off my tooth-pick counting :thumb:
 
:floor:

Now that is the scary thing about putting up pics of any part of your car :thumb:

I've started trying to do ultra tight close ups of the part I want to photograph otherwise a whole can of worms can be opened !

ps you can take the lazy route to testing and do one of the following:

- get a friendly indy to check it for free (although if you're that friendly with him you have already remortgaged your house to fund his business ;-)

- get a Bosche Hammer (or find out if someone near you has one) as this can turn on / off any of the fans on command

- get one of Tore-B diagnostic leads and the free Scantool software (for about the same price as x1 diagnostic test) which does most of what the Bosche Hammer can do including this test.

I have to admit, playing with wire sounds more fun though ;-)
 
:grin: Suppose I asked for that.

It did occur to me that I may get some comments about the A/C set to on and ventilation controls being set for full up and no down distribution and I had an answer ready for that ....to clear condensation as the humidity was so high.

Since I fixed the A/C and treated the windscreen with Rain.X visibilty in the wet has improved enormously

Luckily the spurious warning light for 'cab roof not locked' isn't visible. That's on 'the list' too. :roll:
 

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