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Front bumper spray job-OPC Pricing

keendean

Well-known member
Joined
11 Aug 2011
Messages
181
I had a few stone chips on my bumper, and had a good local independant garage spray the bumper for me, and said they'd be able to match without spraying wings and bumper. Finish is perfect, but the colour match is not 100%. I have asked OPC to price for the job which is double the price I paid originally. It's my own thought not going to OPC anyhow, and have been quoted £550+Vat from OPC Cambs? Is this a good deal, I'm spending 2k with them in Feb, so was hoping for a cheaper price. It's getting costly, what with I've paid already. My car is seal grey, is this notoriously difficult to match? So price OK? OPC paintshop best place to go for a 100% no quibble job? 911 ownership is a costly hobby, if you want to keep your daily driver pristine :nooo:
 
I use the mantra that "a cheap job done twice is always the most costly option". I'd estimate the cost of a respray on the front bumper to be around £250-£300 + VAT. Paint mixing should not be an issue - the paint is not ready supplied but is mixed according to a recipe that the supplier works to published by manufacturers. I'm sure some mushroom grower will come along here and tell me the paint Porsche supplies is different to that supplied to body shops. I am no expert.

So I do not think Seal Grey paint matching is an issue - more likely poor worksmanship by whoever did the job.

On your point about spending £2k with the OPC - that does not justify them pricing the job less. You had an issue, you paid someone to fix it, they didn't fix it to the standard they should have and now OPC steps in to the breach to undo the mess and do it properly. In my line of work, fixing someone else's mistakes never justifies a discount - its full price work every time. I walk away, they come back and ask me again, I say yeah at my price and they say OK. End of story. But I have to make sure I can and I will fix it. So make sure OPC fixes it and if they don't, you will take the car back and have it done FOC until they put it right.
 
In May 2011 I had my Seal Grey front PU sprayed by a spray-shop that I was told did a lot of work for OPCs.

The finish/match etc was excellent.

Cost was £526.16 incl VAT

I don't know how much I saved by cutting out the middle man but from what you're saying it sounds like c£100.

As that was over 2 years ago £660 sounds about right for an OPC price but I wouldn't pay it.
 
cheshire911 said:
I use the mantra that "a cheap job done twice is always the most costly option".

I was waiting for that, and nearly wrote that. I agree completly, but the job performed was flawless in terms of finish, just shame about the paint colour :sad:

£550 +Vat does seem steep though.

And yes, lesson learnt. :cop:
 
Apologies if I came across as patronising or condescending. It was not meant to be.

First things first:
If the job was not done satisfactorily (and matching paint correctly is a requirment of a satisfactory respray) then the first recourse you have is to the guy who did the job (badly) and ask him what he intends to do to put it right. The onus is on him - to that end you can suggest that you will take it for an independent assessment and if that reveals poor workmanship and preparation/mixing, you will expect him to put it right FOC or you will have it done yourself and take him to a small claims court for reimbursement. Then see how he reacts. So first action is to tell him you are not happy and ask him what he intends to do to put it right.

If you are wanting to go the third party route:

Personally, I'd leave out the OPC and look for a real good-reputation local bodyshop. For instance, Mercedes near me for many years did not have a body shop but sub contracted all their body repairs to a local firm who they had "approved". Even now after setting up their own body shop in Mancheshester, the view of fellow Merc owners is they wouldn't take their cars there but use the approved repairer from days of old. Mercedes body repairs are poor and shoddy - this is not their core business - and I speak only for MB Manchester - absolutely crap and bag of shiite all of them.

I'd be inclined to ask a few prestige main dealers who they sub-contract their body repirs to (if they do outsource it). Then go along and visit them and see the cars they are working on and have a chat and show them your car and what you want. Make it clear that your standard is that the paint must match before you ask them for an estimate and ask them how they will ensure this mistake is not repeated. Listen to their "story" and assess if they are b~ll shI*t&rs.

Mantra #2:
"Always be in search of the source of the River Nile - meaning - fish as far upstream as you can to avoid lining other people's pockets".

Good luck
 
cheshire911 said:
Apologies if I came across as patronising or condescending. It was not meant to be.

First things first:
If the job was not done satisfactorily (and matching paint correctly is a requirment of a satisfactory respray) then the first recourse you have is to the guy who did the job (badly) and ask him what he intends to do to put it right. The onus is on him - to that end you can suggest that you will take it for an independent assessment and if that reveals poor workmanship and preparation/mixing, you will expect him to put it right FOC or you will have it done yourself and take him to a small claims court for reimbursement. Then see how he reacts. So first action is to tell him you are not happy and ask him what he intends to do to put it right.

If you are wanting to go the third party route:

Personally, I'd leave out the OPC and look for a real good-reputation local bodyshop. For instance, Mercedes near me for many years did not have a body shop but sub contracted all their body repairs to a local firm who they had "approved". Even now after setting up their own body shop in Mancheshester, the view of fellow Merc owners is they wouldn't take their cars there but use the approved repairer from days of old. Mercedes body repairs are poor and shoddy - this is not their core business - and I speak only for MB Manchester - absolutely crap and bag of shiite all of them.

I'd be inclined to ask a few prestige main dealers who they sub-contract their body repirs to (if they do outsource it). Then go along and visit them and see the cars they are working on and have a chat and show them your car and what you want. Make it clear that your standard is that the paint must match before you ask them for an estimate and ask them how they will ensure this mistake is not repeated. Listen to their "story" and assess if they are b~ll shI*t&rs.

Mantra #2:
"Always be in search of the source of the River Nile - meaning - fish as far upstream as you can to avoid lining other people's pockets".

Good luck
.

Totally agree, unless the garage clearly stated the colour match may be an issue and you accepted the risk the onus is with the garage to do it again to your satisfaction, if your not happy he may well have painted it yellow, if he had done that would you have gone back to him or get someone else to do it?
 
£250 is the going rate for a PU. Some paints are difficult to match and a lot may depend on how old the original paint is. I was advised there would need to be some blending into the wings and bonnet but as these were well peppered I had the lot done.

It does come down to the reputation of the painter and knowing what his standard is like :thumb:
 
IMO it is almost impossible to match a panel in any mettalic finish exactly, even if you have the same ti of paint if for example a differnt sprayer used it with a different gun and booth etc the colour will be off, a lot of people do not notice but the amount of satisfactory jobs that I have seen in what is known as edge to edge I couuld count on the fingers of one hand and that afetr over 30 years in the motor trade, yes there is a formula for making whatever colour, for example seal grey, but in their wisdom paint manufacturers have maybe 4 or 5 variants on that colour, also the colour will vary with pressure and painting style etc.
The only way IMO to get a satisfactory invisible repair is to paint the whole front end with the colour (basecoat) being lost at least halfway along the wings and bonnet, if needs be the whole bonnet can be recoloured and then the whole front of the car relaquered.
This is why an Insurance company allow extra costing for 'blending' of the paint, ie if you had to have a new door on a 911 you would paint the door and half the front and back wing ('flicking' the colour steadly so there is a seamless 'join') and clearcoat the whole front wing , door and back wing/roof section.
This is exactly how we did my Turbo a couple of weeks ago, im now frantically touching in stone chips daily :sad:




I would expect change from the amount you mentioned and that would include the mirrors. :thumbs:
 
Echo what JD says, when I had the paint redone on mine to sort out stone chips etc, they did a blend to make sure it all matched and the result is excellent! :thumb:
 
Ducky said:
Echo what JD says, when I had the paint redone on mine to sort out stone chips etc, they did a blend to make sure it all matched and the result is excellent! :thumb:

It really is the ONLY way to get an 'invisible' repair, the guys that did mine are CTR on 01293 612111
 
A couple of considerations
Seal Grey isn't a particularly difficult colour to match, I have a feeling but am not 1005 sure there may be 2 variations,
The problem you probably have are
The if you've only painted the PU what you sometimes detect as the PU is now very fresh, is that because of the angle you're viewing the panel from the colours look different because of the angle your viewing it from, it may sound a little weird but if you look at the front wing and door from the rear 3/4 area i.e. stand by the rear light and look forward on 997 especially because of tyeh the curves on the front wing the door and wing look like totally different colours even on a new car

As the car is seal grey the car must be 6 years old so to be fair you should probably of painted the pu and the bonnet and blended into the wings.

For a quality body shop to paint a PU id say £300 plus vat or less is reasonable.
PU bonnet and blend into wings costs me shade less than £900 inc vat.

Shop around I ve seen some shoddy work from OPC's and some very good work, but generally id shop around locally, normally the cheapest isn't the best.

You really want a job done where the preparation is undercoated and wet flatted, not scotchbrighted not painted edge to edge but blended and wet flat and machined rather than gun finish.
If the man your speaking to doesn't understand those words then he doesn't know what hes doing
 
mark pearce said:
A couple of considerations
Seal Grey isn't a particularly difficult colour to match, I have a feeling but am not 1005 sure there may be 2 variations,
The problem you probably have are
The if you've only painted the PU what you sometimes detect as the PU is now very fresh, is that because of the angle you're viewing the panel from the colours look different because of the angle your viewing it from, it may sound a little weird but if you look at the front wing and door from the rear 3/4 area i.e. stand by the rear light and look forward on 997 especially because of tyeh the curves on the front wing the door and wing look like totally different colours even on a new car

As the car is seal grey the car must be 6 years old so to be fair you should probably of painted the pu and the bonnet and blended into the wings.

For a quality body shop to paint a PU id say £300 plus vat or less is reasonable.
PU bonnet and blend into wings costs me shade less than £900 inc vat.

Shop around I ve seen some shoddy work from OPC's and some very good work, but generally id shop around locally, normally the cheapest isn't the best.

You really want a job done where the preparation is undercoated and wet flatted, not scotchbrighted not painted edge to edge but blended and wet flat and machined rather than gun finish.
If the man your speaking to doesn't understand those words then he doesn't know what hes doing

As above but the thing with most mettalics is they have to be painted in the correct plane ie you should not apply the colour to a door that is lieing flat, it should be in its vertical state otherwise the aluminium particles wil reflect the light differently to the wings and bonnet.
Also any decent body shop will not go near undercoat or filler with 'wet flatting' as this introduces another medium that can go wrong and cause microblister etc further down the line, it can be done safely if the shop is willing to bake the car off for a decent time to completely dry it out but this is not cost effective in elctricity/gas or time.
 
One of the first jobs I had done on mine was to rid her of the stone chips on the front bumper, bonnet and wings.
Two well known and respected local bodyshops quoted circa £500-£600. I then got in touch with a mechanic friend who used to do all my work on my Alfa who put me in touch with a colleague of his who did the job for £350.
I would suggest that £550ish is the going rate unless you have a friend of a friend so to speak.
 
cheshire911 said:
For instance, Mercedes near me for many years did not have a body shop but sub contracted all their body repairs to a local firm who they had "approved". Even now after setting up their own body shop in Mancheshester, the view of fellow Merc owners is they wouldn't take their cars there but use the approved repairer from days of old. Mercedes body repairs are poor and shoddy - this is not their core business - and I speak only for MB Manchester - absolutely crap and bag of shiite all of them.

Somebody ran into the back of my Mercedes and the guy who had sold me the car told me not to listen to the new workshop manager and to go to their old approved bodyshop.

I took his advice and went to a firm in Broadheath in Altrincham. I don't know if that's who you are referring to?

They were unbelievably good and they were certainly the equal of Lloyds, which is the external bodyshop used by Porsche Wilmslow. Lloyds are very good, but very expensive, perhaps because they are approved by Porsche, Bentley and others!!
 
JohnnyDangerous said:
mark pearce said:
A couple of considerations
Seal Grey isn't a particularly difficult colour to match, I have a feeling but am not 1005 sure there may be 2 variations,
The problem you probably have are
The if you've only painted the PU what you sometimes detect as the PU is now very fresh, is that because of the angle you're viewing the panel from the colours look different because of the angle your viewing it from, it may sound a little weird but if you look at the front wing and door from the rear 3/4 area i.e. stand by the rear light and look forward on 997 especially because of tyeh the curves on the front wing the door and wing look like totally different colours even on a new car

As the car is seal grey the car must be 6 years old so to be fair you should probably of painted the pu and the bonnet and blended into the wings.

For a quality body shop to paint a PU id say £300 plus vat or less is reasonable.
PU bonnet and blend into wings costs me shade less than £900 inc vat.

Shop around I ve seen some shoddy work from OPC's and some very good work, but generally id shop around locally, normally the cheapest isn't the best.

You really want a job done where the preparation is undercoated and wet flatted, not scotchbrighted not painted edge to edge but blended and wet flat and machined rather than gun finish.
If the man your speaking to doesn't understand those words then he doesn't know what hes doing

As above but the thing with most mettalics is they have to be painted in the correct plane ie you should not apply the colour to a door that is lieing flat, it should be in its vertical state otherwise the aluminium particles wil reflect the light differently to the wings and bonnet.
Also any decent body shop will not go near undercoat or filler with 'wet flatting' as this introduces another medium that can go wrong and cause microblister etc further down the line, it can be done safely if the shop is willing to bake the car off for a decent time to completely dry it out but this is not cost effective in elctricity/gas or time.

I agree with your comments re wet flat and micro blistering but the guys I use always give plenty of time before painting to avoid the micro blistering
I was always told wet flitting gives a far smother base
 

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