false alarm?

[keith]

Having recently acquired my 3.2 Carrera I need some help. I have the Porsche immobiliser but no alarm or remote c/locking. The c/locking works when using the key in either door. On the alarm side it looks as though it has been disconnected at some point. There is a siren unit in the engine compartment and a double sensor thing mounted on top of the center console. Does this sound like orig. eqpt.? Any advice welcome.

Also having rewired the stereo succesfully I am in the process of fitting a screen aerial when the unit has failed to operate. I have checked the permanent live feed to the stereo and it is reading only 3 volts! The switched supply is correct at 12 v. Any ideas on this one?

Thanks

Keith


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[James Ball]

I don't think any Carrera 3.2s came with an alarm but I could be way out on this. It the alarm is not connected your Insurance may be invalid - they usually require a (working!) alarm.

Could your 3 volts be a poor connection somewhere?

James


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[keith]

Thanks for the reply James, the Insurance condition is for the immobiliser only which is ok.

Surely there must be someone out there up to speed with electrics.

Keith


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[James Ball]

The silence is deafening!

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[andyphilpott]

Keith

If you are onyl getting 3v there could be a number of reasons. One, the cable has been trapped earlier in its run and very few strands are left. Or it could be the earth is poor - but the easiest way is to find another permanent live 12 v and use a new wire (as this permanent live wire is only to keep the memory in the unit, for the radio settings etc).

Also, do you mean that while you were fitting the screen aerial, it stopped working? If this is the case, I woudl suspect you're earthing the unit somewhere when you shouldn't be.

And finally, just check your own connections when checking the 3v supply - a poor earth or connection from your meter will cause a fluctuating and incorrect reading. 3v is a strange supply to be providing so I would suspect its connection (where did this 12v feed come from). Sorry - more questions than answers but I'll do my best...

Andy


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[keith]

Thanks Andy

The permanent live 12v feed was ok to the radio till I tried to fit the screen aerial, because I had an easier terminal block connector on the permanent wire I used this to connect to the aerial amplifier and I did it without disconnecting the battery first (it was raining)I should have used the switched live from the ignition but I tried to take a short cut. As I say the reading is approx 3v with a good earth to the meter now. The light on the aerial unit is glowing but it will not power the stereo. Seems strange that I have a circuit with current but at 3v. I will try your suggestion of using another direct feed but I would love to resolve this 3v thing.


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[andyphilpott]

Keith

Ok, bearing in mind what you say, I would suggest that issue you have is the drawing of current for the aerial amp. Disconnecting the battery would not have made any difference. A lot depends on how new/old your stereo is - most relatively new stereos will require to 12 v wires - one permanent and one switched. Do not confuse them - one has to be switched otherwise the stereo will be permanently on.

The radio amp will draw a fair bit of power, so you should probably draw this from a swtiched connection (otherwise it will continue to draw power while the car is off - you only need it when the car/radio is on), but otherwise you should be OK.

IS the aerial earther properly - I wonder if there is some current getting through and coming back on you?


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[keith]

Thanks again Andy

I will disconnect the aerial and see if the current changes. I do have the switched and permanent feeds identified as I had rewired the stereo last week correctly. I didnt know that the aerial drew much current, the instructions said permanent or switched was ok. I earthed the aerial through the sun visor fixing, and although the light glows on the unit it could be a poor earth there.

Cheers

Keith


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[keith]

Hi Andy

Its sorted!

I noticed that the fuse box is getting some water via a leaky bonnet seal. I simply rotated all the fuses to make sure connections were being made and hey presto! the stereo and most of the electrical bits have come alive. I will get the seal replaced asap. Thanks for you advice, in the end going back to the fuse box was the answer although all fuses were ok the little bastard responsible for the stereo was only letting 3 volts through.

Cheers

Keith


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[James Ball]

Hooray. That means I was kind of right when I said it could be bad connections! Makes a nice change!

Glad you got it sorted. One more job off the list.

James


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[keith]

James you were absolutely correct. BUT, knowing the needle is in the haystack doesn't help finding it!

lol.

all the best

Keith


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[James Ball]

How many "connections" can there be!!! :wink:

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[keith]

er. sorry didnt catch that..I have the stereo up loud!!!!

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