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Dry Ice and Protection - Any recommendations.

This is me. Happy to price for anybody, I have some fixed prices based around a full car and Engine bay, but can just do specific areas. Porsche stuff consumes lots of time/material when you start doing the engine & gearbox because there is much more of it exposed than on other cars (from the underside). I tend to do a fixed full car price which is the full underside and finishes with an engine bay clean.
have dropped you a message
 
Hi Guys, I've just had my 996 track car done by Anthony at JetStream Ice - based in Maidstone, Kent

Can't recommend him highly enough - very passionate guy who has researched his trade to the n'th degree. Extra bonus is he is a Porsche nut!

 
Hi I had a trip up to the North West - To Ian Pye @ Prep Works (On recommendation from Pete at CG)

Ian did a great job, Dry Ice cleaning certainly does a brilliant job, enabling everything on the underside, engine bay and in wheel arches etc to be easily inspected and then protected for the future.

Can thoroughly recommend Ian a real Porsche enthusiast and processional at what he does.
 
Is there any downside to dry-ice cleaning? Any risk of damage or exposing parts that should NOT be exposed or strip-cleaned?

I'm quite keen to have this done to my 997 C4S, but not at the risk of causing some other serious issue with the car. Thanks! :)
 
Is there any downside to dry-ice cleaning? Any risk of damage or exposing parts that should NOT be exposed or strip-cleaned?

I'm quite keen to have this done to my 997 C4S, but not at the risk of causing some other serious issue with the car. Thanks! :)

I think it's pretty safe, although best to avoid electrical components. As I posted earlier in this thread, I had mine done about 6 months ago and there has been no adverse effects. In fact, it has been beneficial in that the underside of my car has been cleaned, but importantly protected after the dry ice cleaning.

Lanoguard was applied to mine before I bought it last year- it coats all very well

The Blast Smith used Bilt Hamber products after the cleaning the chassis of my car, e.g. Dynax UX + some other products.
 
Yep, same on mine.
 
Is there any downside to dry-ice cleaning? Any risk of damage or exposing parts that should NOT be exposed or strip-cleaned?

I'm quite keen to have this done to my 997 C4S, but not at the risk of causing some other serious issue with the car. Thanks! :)
Many Porsche parts have an anti corrosion coating called cosmolene on them. You are potentially/are removing this with dry ice cleaning. Hence its vital to re-protect them. Dry ice cleaning prior to improving corrosion protection does seem reasonable. It does a great (the best) job in removing dirt and I am told it is non abrasive. But if not aiming to clean to subsequently improve protection, ask yourself why. The dirt isn't doing much harm in the main (a few exceptions admittedly), and you don't see the underside unless you roll over, in which case dirt will be the least of your worries.
I'm personally a (huge) fan of lanoguard and on buying my concours level 997 used this as my first major job. I cleaned everything used muc off motorbike/bicycle cleaner and a steam cleaner (avoiding connectors) before protecting and a year later it's still looking great.
I recall i used about £30 worth of lanoguard for a 997 coupe.
 
Many Porsche parts have an anti corrosion coating called cosmolene on them. You are potentially/are removing this with dry ice cleaning. Hence its vital to re-protect them. Dry ice cleaning prior to improving corrosion protection does seem reasonable. It does a great (the best) job in removing dirt and I am told it is non abrasive. But if not aiming to clean to subsequently improve protection, ask yourself why. The dirt isn't doing much harm in the main (a few exceptions admittedly), and you don't see the underside unless you roll over, in which case dirt will be the least of your worries.
I'm personally a (huge) fan of lanoguard and on buying my concours level 997 used this as my first major job. I cleaned everything used muc off motorbike/bicycle cleaner and a steam cleaner (avoiding connectors) before protecting and a year later it's still looking great.
I recall i used about £30 worth of lanoguard for a 997 coupe.

I think you make a good point that dry ice cleaning may remove the cosmoline coating on parts. Therefore an essential part of the dry ice cleaning process must include re-protecting the surfaces that have been cleaned with a fresh coating. It seems many dry ice cleaners favour using Bilt Hamber Dynax products to protect surfaces. On a 15-20 year old car, I suspect much of the factory applied cosmoline coatings may have worn and are only providing partial protection at this point anyway (although I don’t have any evidence of this TBF).

This video is quite interesting. It is a Bilt Hamber video, so I appreciate it’s not unbiased though.



Now that I have had my car dry ice cleaned and protected with BH Dynax, I will just use Surfex-HD (degreaser) and jet wash my arches and exposed parts of the underside a couple of times a year. Then I plan to reapply Dynax UC myself every other year.
 
Good video, makes me even more at ease knowing I've got BH protecting my car
 
BH for me too. Great product.
Also there is some concern / reports in various classic car forums re Lanoguard attracting rodents - not sure if evidence based, but feasible given ingredients.
 
I’ve always thought of getting my car cleaned up at some point with the use of dry ice and looking how much better it would look. I do remember someone I know in Melbourne having it done on his and the massive improvement it made
 
I helped a friend remove the engine from his air cooled (SC Sport) some years back, he polished it to perfection the whole unit gleamed, it looked wonderful, though a few months later it was back to being as as dull as ever.. I did wonder about the possible effect of removing any possible o.e. corrosion protection on the alloy, and while there are quite a few corrosion protection coatings available I do wonder what their possible effect might be in terms of thermal efficiency reduction which on an air-cooled engine might be worth considering, perhaps more so if it might be a turbo....?
 

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