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Brake bleeding help needed.

C11BRA

Suzuka
Joined
30 Mar 2015
Messages
1,090
Hello all.

As some will know, I've recently replace all four calipers, flexi hoses & master cylinder. All fitted now over the weekend. But even with a positive pressure wet bleeder I was unable to get a good brake pedal.

After some research, it seems I will need to activate my ABS pump with a scan tool. Not normally needed if just doing a brake bleed but with multiple component replacement, air has likely migrated to the ABS pump area.

I'll try again this evening but if anyone has experience of bleeding and activating the ABS pumps, please let me know your preferred sequence.

Thanks.
 
Hi,

I have been through a "full bleed" recently (GT3 MC) and so can probably help.

You really have two options...

1. Use a diagnostic tool with a pressure bleeder to cycle the ABS. Whilst cycling it you need to slowly depress and release the brake pedal (old fashioned way) in conjunction with your pressure bleeder to release the air.

2. Take it for a spin and cycle the ABS a few times (as in, stomp on the brakes and activate the ABS).

Despite having a diagnostic tool, I actually went with Option 2 as it was an iterative process anyway (bleed, test, bleed...)

You need to bleed both sides of the caliper to get all of the air out. Bleeding only from the outside isn't enough in my experience. It is tedious but not difficult.

Forgot to add... Whichever option you choose, the two person method in conjunction with a pressure bleeder is best. Pressure bleeding alone didn't release all of the air for me but as soon as I had somebody cycle the pedal, loads of trapped air started coming out.
 
Thanks Lenny.
 
Lennym1984 said:
Hi,

I have been through a "full bleed" recently (GT3 MC) and so can probably help.

You really have two options...

1. Use a diagnostic tool with a pressure bleeder to cycle the ABS. Whilst cycling it you need to slowly depress and release the brake pedal (old fashioned way) in conjunction with your pressure bleeder to release the air.

2. Take it for a spin and cycle the ABS a few times (as in, stomp on the brakes and activate the ABS).

Despite having a diagnostic tool, I actually went with Option 2 as it was an iterative process anyway (bleed, test, bleed...)

You need to bleed both sides of the caliper to get all of the air out. Bleeding only from the outside isn't enough in my experience. It is tedious but not difficult.

Forgot to add... Whichever option you choose, the two person method in conjunction with a pressure bleeder is best. Pressure bleeding alone didn't release all of the air for me but as soon as I had somebody cycle the pedal, loads of trapped air started coming out.

When you activated the ABS did you get air out of the system when you bled it afterwards? Have a good pedal but haven't activated my ABS yet.
 
Good news Y'all.

The Mac Tools scan tool had the bleed brakes function.



Really odd sequence though.

But matches a post on a Durametric thread I just read.

Left rear. 30 seconds. No real pump activation.
Left front. 30 seconds. No real pump activation.
Right rear. 117 seconds. Pump goes fricken mental.
Right front. 90 seconds. Mental again.



Had the wet pressure bleeder running and a 14year old pumping the pedal. Some air did come out, so it did work.

Rock solid pedal. Will get the wheels back on by the weekend and report back on the feel.
 
Escy said:
Lennym1984 said:
Hi,

I have been through a "full bleed" recently (GT3 MC) and so can probably help.

You really have two options...

1. Use a diagnostic tool with a pressure bleeder to cycle the ABS. Whilst cycling it you need to slowly depress and release the brake pedal (old fashioned way) in conjunction with your pressure bleeder to release the air.

2. Take it for a spin and cycle the ABS a few times (as in, stomp on the brakes and activate the ABS).

Despite having a diagnostic tool, I actually went with Option 2 as it was an iterative process anyway (bleed, test, bleed...)

You need to bleed both sides of the caliper to get all of the air out. Bleeding only from the outside isn't enough in my experience. It is tedious but not difficult.

Forgot to add... Whichever option you choose, the two person method in conjunction with a pressure bleeder is best. Pressure bleeding alone didn't release all of the air for me but as soon as I had somebody cycle the pedal, loads of trapped air started coming out.

When you activated the ABS did you get air out of the system when you bled it afterwards? Have a good pedal but haven't activated my ABS yet.

I did yes but my pedal was clearly not right even before I activated it (so I already knew that there was trapped air). You maybe fine and the workshop manual itself only says to bleed the Abs if the pedal is still spongey after a normal bleed. If it isn't, I guess you don't need to
 

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