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Bizarre rear camber issue with my 996

tcw

Trainee
Joined
11 Feb 2020
Messages
64
Hey everyone.

I recently replaced the coffin arms, fork arms, rear toe control arms on my 996 as the original stuff was pretty tired.

Unfortunately, having re-assembled it I am having issues getting the rear camber remotely into spec, I can't seem to get _any_ less than 2.2 degrees on both sides, although one appears to be slightly more problematic than the other. Toe can be (easily) brought into spec.

I picked up the arms from Spyder Performance, I did go for the polybushed version. I understand people have had issues before with the Meyle arms, but none of these appeared to cause too much camber?

The car is running standard shocks / springs, ride height is normal (though I haven't measured it super precisely, it's in the right ballpark for standard suspension)

Has anyone else gone down this road / had this problem? Tomorrow I'm going to use a friends ramp to give the car a proper look over, although given my local alignment place had no more luck than me I am not holding out much hope.

The obvious choice would be to send the car up to Centre Gravity - this is something I would like to do however I want to sort out coilovers and a few other bits first.

Tobie.
 
Hi Tobie,

Unfortunately a lot of the aftermarket arms are slightly longer than the original gear.
Longer coffin arms or shorter dog bones (upper arms) will cause more camber but you can usually still get it dialled out with the eccentric bolts.

The issue then moves to the toe though because as you wind the bottom of the wheel in to reduce camber the rear toe links can't adjust enough. This adds large amounts of toe. So it's one or the other. Toe or camber.

The easiest fix is some adjustable toe links. You can then wind the camber back to -1/-1.5 degrees and shorten the toe links to get the toe bang on too.

You can make the toe links easily enough or just buy some for £100 ish.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ADJUSTAB...-/183899476445?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286


Without these it's a case of living with too much toe or too much camber. Usually the toe will just be in spec with camber at -2/-2.5 degrees. That's ok but a bit excessive for road use.
Plus it varies from car to car and could even be -3 deg.

Good luck. :thumb:

Alternatively identify which arms are the issue and return them. I've done that once with a really bad toe link.
 
Marky911 said:
Hi Tobie,

Unfortunately a lot of the aftermarket arms are slightly longer than the original gear.
Longer coffin arms or shorter dog bones (upper arms) will cause more camber but you can usually still get it dialled out with the eccentric bolts.

The issue then moves to the toe though because as you wind the bottom of the wheel in to reduce camber the rear toe links can't adjust enough. This adds large amounts of toe. So it's one or the other. Toe or camber.

The easiest fix is some adjustable toe links. You can then wind the camber back to -1/-1.5 degrees and shorten the toe links to get the toe bang on too.

You can make the toe links easily enough or just buy some for £100 ish.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ADJUSTAB...-/183899476445?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286


Without these it's a case of living with too much toe or too much camber. Usually the toe will just be in spec with camber at -2/-2.5 degrees. That's ok but a bit excessive for road use.
Plus it varies from car to car and could even be -3 deg.

Good luck. :thumb:

Alternatively identify which arms are the issue and return them. I've done that once with a really bad toe link.

Mark, thanks a lot for the response, the issue I actually have is I really can't seem to dial it out with the eccentric bolts. I've ordered a different set of arms just incase they happen to be the problem (at this stage, it was worth a punt, worst case I can sell them on)
 
Just to update on this. A new set of CTE arms got this sorted, the other arms were very noticeably longer; along with the angle of the balljoint being slightly different which didn't appear to help things.
 

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