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964 clutch replacement & uprating

Dave Atkinson

New member
18 Jan 2006
Hello 911 fans! I hope you can help me with an issue I have - I have posted this on the Rennlist forum as well, but I hope you guys will be able to help to:

I have owned my 1994 964 for just over a year, the time has come for some much needed technical advice.

I have been informed by a 911 enthusiast that it “feels” like the clutch is failing. It is not slipping like the clutch on my Mondeo did before it expired, but the only problem I can detect is a creaking when I press the clutch pedal. It is quite heavy nonetheless, but has been like this since I bought the car.

Anyway, it looks like I will have to get the clutch changed; but I am keen to up rate it because I would like to get involved with track days and competitions. What are my options? I do not have the expertise or the knowledge to do this myself, but I want to know what I should be considering.

Also I would like to know how reliable clutches are. My car has 72,000 miles on the clock: surely it cannot be due already?

Any ideas?Thanks. Dave

Migration info. Legacy thread was 43316
Welcome to the forum firstly.

Regards the clutch, im no expert but a heavy pedal is normally a sign of a worn clutch.

Personally I wouldnt change the clutch as long as the gear change is smoth and it isnt fouling on change, no danger to gearbox.

With regards the milage, at 72k I would imagine that it has already had one clutch.

Most last 30 - 50k subject to use, when you do change it get the RMS done.



Migration info. Legacy thread was 43319
RS lightweight flywheel and rs clutch? best upgrade ever IMO

feels like an extra 30bhp!

Migration info. Legacy thread was 43338
I'll second the RS lightweight clutch and flywheel recommendation. (RMS is not an issue on 964s so ignore that).

The downside of the lightweight clutch is that it can make the car prone to stalling, particularly when doing tight parking manoeuvres and cruising into roundabouts etc. You learn to drive around it by not putting the clutch in until you are almost at a standstill and the revs right down. It's not a major drama, but adds a further element of complication to what is already not the easiest car in the world to drive. I have just had my clutch replaced (already had lightweight before) and the difference between the weight of the pedal pre and post change was night and day. I had no idea they could feel so light.

To give you some kind of idea of wear, the clutch on my old 3.2 lasted 100k miles before it needed changing but the lightweight one on my 964 only lasted 20k miles (only 10k of which were my use). I'm not sure whether that says more about the hardware or the way that the cars were driven, but either way I'm afraid clutches (like brake discs and pads) are consumable items - you will need to change them eventually !!!


Migration info. Legacy thread was 43379
The downside of the lightweight clutch is that it can make the car prone to stalling

Jamie, why is that??

Migration info. Legacy thread was 43383
Previous poster said:
Quote: Originally posted by Maxy M on 19 January 2006

The downside of the lightweight clutch is that it can make the car prone to stalling

Jamie, why is that??
light weight means it speeds up fast with the revs - but also slows down faster - hence can catch you out as the revs dip quickly. The engine management sometimes cant react fast enough and stalls. There are a few tweels to the idle valve you can do to help but to be honest its very easy to drive around the problem.

the benifits outlay the negatives :)

Migration info. Legacy thread was 43389
What he said !

The software in the C2 ECU is different to that of the RS. The C2 was never designed to work with a lightweight flywheel.

Not a big problem, but don't expect it to be totally without compromises.


Migration info. Legacy thread was 43405
Thanks fellas!

Migration info. Legacy thread was 43408
Interesting reading about the rs flywheels.

I used to have a 993 c2 with a varioram engine, which needed a clutch. I was told by JZ Machtec that I also needed a flywheel, which being some complicated multi mass thing that I didnt understand, was seriously expensive. So they fitted a RS flywheel and uprated clutch.

Afterwards the engine did rev live a F1 car, but jeez, did it ever stall all the time!.. JZ first told me it was the idle control valve, which they changed, then it was a vacuum leak and then they said it was a worn top end.. at that point I got so fed up with the car I sold it to a friend (who is still suffering with it stalling)

I went about 3 months without a Porsche, until I found my current RS.. initially I was worried about it being a stalling pain to drive, but it never has once stalled on me like the C2 did!

So I think the posts here have just answered the question as to why it always stalled! I will tell my friend tomorow, the only thing is. How can it be fixed??

Migration info. Legacy thread was 43437
How can it be fixed??

mine used to do it all the time - but have now got it licked....

1 - slightly tweek the ICV - sure i posted some instructions on here? if not look at the pcar web site - basically - remove, clean unscrew retaining bolts holding the end and twist very slightly.

2 - ensure your battery is fully charged - it makes a difference

3 - drive it more and drive around the problem

4 - if all else fails a live remap done well will sort it apparently (i havent bothered as its now ok with the above)

Migration info. Legacy thread was 43448

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