Porsche 911UK Forum

Welcome to the @Porsche911UK website. Register a free account today to become a member! Sign up is quick and easy, then you can view, participate in topics and posts across the site that covers all things Porsche.

Already registered and looking to recovery your account, select 'login in' and then the 'forget your password' option.

964 (1990)


1 Nov 2002
im viewing a carerra 4 tomorrow for the first time tomorrow.it has covered 95k with a full history most recently at rg lewis.does anyone know this garage.plus please as much advice as poss on what to look for before departing with my long saved cash.please note ive never owned a porsche before and this will be my first drive in a 964

Migration info. Legacy thread was 386

Just look for the usual crash damage etc. It will be interesting for you to compare it to the turbo and see which you think fits your needs better. The 964 will probably feel a lot safer but heavier and slower (although in real terms it isn't much, if any, slower)



Both a 911 turbo and early 964 could cost you a packet if they are duds

Migration info. Legacy thread was 388
Also, there are LOADS of 964s out there and the general rule is buying the latest one you can (they fixed the oil leaking issues etc). I am not sure what this one costs but £18k should get you a very nice 92 or 93 model. Personally I would go have a look at this one you have found, try it out, see what you think of 964s in general and if you like it find a later model.


Migration info. Legacy thread was 389
this 964 is a 1990 (h) 95k with the last service at rg lewis in aug at 94500 miles.ive spoken to rg lewis who describe the car as a sound buy in excellent condition.they mot'd it in july and carried out a full service in the aug.the only additional work done was to clean the slow idling valve.they did say this can be a problem when car covering regular short distances and may need cleaning between services.any comments on this.the only other thing they stated was that the steering rack showed signs of a slight leak,nothing to worry about at that stage but something to look out for in the future.what do you think?has any one heard of motofarm in mobberley who sell used porches.

Migration info. Legacy thread was 392
forgot to say that car is £16495

Migration info. Legacy thread was 393
I assume this is a private sale

£16495 sounds about right. It is a good sign that the servicing garage recommends the car.

I have heard of idling valves fouling if you overfill slightly with oil so buy that.

And I can't really comment on the leaky steering rack - however this sounds like a negotiation point to me.

If you like the car, take it to a specialist and get a PPI done, including a leakdown test. Get quotes for all the things that need to be fixed, including the steering rack and make an offer to the seller based on the cost to fix it up.

However, I would highly recommend that before you do any of these things you see a few more. This is your first and you will learn a lot just by seeing a few. There are loads out there so don't feel any pressure to rush in. Also prices, if anything, are still dropping so if it takes you a couple of months to see a few more the chances are this one will still be on the market and the seller will be nice and flexible on the price!

Please, please, please don't rush in to it.


Migration info. Legacy thread was 394
thanks james.the car isnt private it is from autoperform at mobberley just outside knutsford.do you know them.rg lewis the servicing centre is at tatteshall any info on them


Migration info. Legacy thread was 396
Hi Clive

No I don't know either of them. However, you are not far from an independent Porsche specialists NineMeister (formerly 930 Motorsport) in Warrington. They are meant to be very good and the boss there, Colin, knows his 964s. If you are serious about this car (and you shouldn't be until you have seen some more!) then take it to him. He will give you an honest appraisal.

Cheers, James

Contact details:
07000 930930 or +44 (0) 1925 242342

Migration info. Legacy thread was 397
me again. when did the engine change from 3.6 to 3.2 or vice versa.which is considered the better? the one im looking at is 3.6.reg ish51dbw formerly on private plate h4car.anyone know it?

Migration info. Legacy thread was 401

The 3.2 lasted from '84 to '89. The 3.6 from '89 to '92 (as the 964) and then came the 993

The 3.6 had a lot of problems with oil leaks (it used a gasket-less seal) and there were loads of recalls. Also there is a problem with distributor belts failing prematurely, but a there is a cheap fix. There was also a problem with dual-mass flywheels in the early cars (pre '92 I think), but most cars have had these replaced when the clutch needed replacing. Worth checking though because it is an expensive part and loads of labour (engine drop etc)

The best engine was the 993 engine that followed. The 964 was kind of rushed out to reinvigorate the 911's falling sales and was a claimed 85% new. For the first time Porsche can be accused of rushing out a car that wasn't ready. However by '92 the problems were all sorted and even the earlier cars can be nice and reliable as long as the remedial work has been done.

The 3.2 engine was an evolution of the 3.0 engine that dated back from 1977. As a result of all the development work is it pretty bullet-proof and has generally been considered to be one of the most reliable 911 engines. However, people have now found that valve guides wear out pretty early and need replacing (not a cheap job either). In reality, every generation of 911 has it achilles heel. Once the 964's have been sorted it is an excellent engine that delivers 260 bhp (vs the 3.2's 230). Can't argue with that !


Migration info. Legacy thread was 402
Just come across another list of things to look for, specifically for 964s (thanks Jem hayward):

964 ChecksCheck door hinge bolts for movement, reseating, paint fit and finish.B post should have barcode affixed. Nearside.Door slam plates same reasons.Oil tank drivers side front wheel arch, in front of wheel, check for impactdamage, and leaky, possibly rusty pipes.Check engine compartment for all stickers : Mobil 1/Shell on intake duct,others where engine cover closes.Check distributor assembly for plastic pipe to inlet manifoldCheck service history - distributor connection belts should have beenreplaced.Check oil level gauge for level when warm at tickover. Then check (dip) oilstill at tickover. Should tally. Sensor is £££.Check oil level anyway. Running with low oil is bad news.Check for any oil leaks around top of engineCheck the under engine plate. This may be damp with oil, but nothingserious.Should be nice mixture of oil and dust.Throttle body rubbers should have been replaced at approximately 40k miles.Steering should have no steering play dead at straight ahead, but a slightdead zone.It should not be snatchy as this points to front suspension bushes beingworn.Check inside front tyres check for wear possibly due to suspension bushes.Opinions differ. Seems to make the car slightly fidgety if they are worn -but no major deal.Check power steering pump for noise.At full lock with engine lid open. Listen.In 3rd gear lift off at 45mph and listen. Should be no loud flywheelgraunging. Most flywheels should have been sorted by now - or superceded onlater models.Check front disks for lip (disk wear).Check that rear spoiler works, this is M£££ to repair.Check sunroof motor works. This is £££. (I know).Check heater/ac panel works. This is £1000 to replace.Check that passenger electric window operates ok. They don't get used much,stick, and then people burn out the motors.Check boot and bonnet hydraulic struts. If they are a little soft this canbe good! Means they haven't been swapped for another reason! They workbetter when weather is warm - mind the bonnet doesn't drop on your head.That latch thing hurts!Check for sticker under bonnet for paint code, VIN number and options list.This should be well stuck on. Like it has never been off and never will comeoff! Should be the same as the one in the front of the service book. Easy toderive fitted options. Option code numbers all over the Internet,Check that the car has original porsche battery. This is importantespecially on a c4 which draws a lot of current (for hydraulic booster etc)and is £150+ to replace.Check that gear oil has been replaced (probably twice) during servicehistory.Car cold, air con on, should be hard to pull away. Indicates good a/c chargepressure.Check slight oil smell inside car (slight is fine). Turn heat right up andfan right up and sniff for oil smell.Check front and rear underbody guards for damage.Check for first aid kit, compressor, tool kit, plastic bag for removedwheel, plastic gloves (all shipped with car at new). Says good owners.Check wheel bearing rumble. Especially back ones. Roll in neutral at 30mph+Listen to exhaust for baffles noise and leaks. Should be rock solid.New cat may be required at this age, can't really check without garagesupport. (Could be replaced with sports exhaust!).If 92 claimed car, check that rear ind lenses have vents. Condensation inrear lights is normal - and they have a tendency to crack - doesn't alwaysmean they've been dinged! Later cars/lenses are better, but not cured!Condensation not normal in other lights - except possibly side repeaters -but they are cheap anyhow - especially if you replace with (identical) VWGolf parts!Compare build date - front of service book, and date of first reg.

Migration info. Legacy thread was 403
<Sorry image not available after migration>
Hi Clive,

I don't know the 964 in details, but here is a good point to verify on a 993. May be it's also valid on a 964:

Open the doors and check the connection between the front wings and the body. If the wings have not been changed, you'll find a point of soldering. When a change has been done after an accident, most of the time the specialist who replace the wing will replace all the bolts, but will not try to weld the wing with the body.



Migration info. Legacy thread was 407

New Threads

Forum statistics

Latest member