3.2 carrera cold idle/oil temp prob's

[Andrew Pritchard]

Having just purchased a superb 3.2 88 model 911 carrera i would like to sort out a couple of problems.

Ist: When the engine is cold i.e within the first 5-10mins ,the idle seems a eratic and hunts slightly,and when pulling up at a junction the revs drop too low and it stops and then will restart no problem.Once warm the idle is fine and does not cut out.

2nd:what kind of oil temp should i expect on a journey of 20 miles on the motorway at @70mph with the outside temp @10 degrees c.The oil temp g auge is showing a reading 1/4 way up the gauge,this seems a bit cool to me. Any advice would be appreciated.

Andy P.


Migration info. Legacy thread was 12673

 

[Used Porsche]

First thing to do is check that the fuses front and back are making good metallic contact in their holders. The old bullet fuses corode over time and have almost certainly never been replaced.

Voltages on the ECU are critical and poor contacts cause all sorts of strange behaviour. Its worth buying a complete set of new fuses at tiny cost for the improvement this can bring. My 3.2 was firing on 3 or 4 cylinders for the first 2 miles due to coroded fuses. And my favourite specialist could find nothing wrong even after having the car for a week. Twice.

Check that the battery is up to scratch and that the leads are cleanly and tightly connected. And that it is charged.

Second is to regularly change the rotor arm and clean the distributer pick up points - at 7 quid for the arm and zero for the pickup points its one of the best practical tune-ups available. This simple act always smoothed the tickover on my 3.2 Carrera.

Every month fill the tank once with Shell Optimax to clean the fuel system and combustion areas.

Make sure the fuel filter has been replaced - and the air filter.

Buy Bentley Publishers 3.2 workshop manual - about 70-80 quid and worth that when you do something yourself or are able to stand up to a know all Porsche maintainer who simply wants your money.

Now you have the basics right, if it still hunts, change the plugs or get a specialist to do it for you.

If that doesnt work get the specialist to probe further.


Is that ZEN and the art of Porsche maintenance?

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[Used Porsche]

OIL temp

A quarter is fine . There is an oil cooler inside the front wing and a thermostat controlling its use.

Even a hot day and idling in traffic should cause no more than half way up the guage in my experience - likewise a very fast run of a hundred miles or so wont bother it more than half way.

More important is to check the oil VERY regularly with a HOT engine (like 20 miles of running) after 2 minutes at tick over and LEAVE THE ENGINE RUNNING while you check the dipstick.. NEVER NEVER fill a stone cold engine that has sat all night based on the dipstick.




Migration info. Legacy thread was 12675

 

[Matt]

1. My 85 3.2 Carrera has an erratic tick over when cold as well, often cutting out when coming up to junctions. I've checked all the points Stevo mentioned and it didn't make any difference, unfortunately. I just put it down to the age of the car, it must have a worn out sensor/dodgy connection somewhere. As it only does it when cold, I don't see it as a massive problem. Probably a lot more hassle to get it fixed than it is to live with it. (and yes, I do use my car every day!!)

2. Even in the summer on a long hot run, my temperature guage has never gone up above the first line, about 1/3 way up. I think this is about 90 deg C, the engine cooling is very effective on a 3.2, and there's a lot of oil to take the heat away.

Matt.


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[imported_Paul D]

I had a similar eratic idle problem on a 964 I had a few years ago, the local OPC informed me that it was the air flow meter/ sensor that was playing up and fixed it in a morning. Not sure if your car would have the same engine management system, but it might be worth asking an independant specialist to check it

Paul D 2004 GT3 & 1983 930


Migration info. Legacy thread was 12701

 

[adam white]

Here my experience of my 87 3.2 Carrera..

Ages ago when I had a faulty air flow meter the car would show similar symptoms, but would also feel a little lumpy when cruising at certain rpms... The air flow meter can easily be tested with a gas analyser..

Latest problem started out like your problem, but developed into something worse... It now has a hot start issue... Basically wont start when its hot... I currently suspect the cylinder head temp sensor on No3... waiting to get my car back from the body shop so I can check this.. Bentley details what resistance I should expect..

Two cheap simple options would be ..

1. Check the earth strap between the trans and the body.. If this is duff it will cause all types of issues..

2. Many running issues it there is nothing mechanically wrong are sorted by a good service and tune by a specialist.. I pay about £280 all in..

You have to remember it is common for a 3.2 to run a little uneaen after starting from cold, but I admit they shouldn't stop..

adam.


Migration info. Legacy thread was 13722

 

[Used Porsche]

This site is fantastic for fixes for all sorts of 911 issues, this particular section describes the operation of the oil cooling system including what should be on the oil temp dial for variuos driving conditions. Although its talking about 964/993 the same system is used on earlier 911's

http://p-car.com/diy/fan/index.html#Normal%20Operating


Migration info. Legacy thread was 13734

 

[bones]

Quote: Originally posted by adam white on 27 February 2004
Here my experience of my 87 3.2 Carrera..
Ages ago when I had a faulty air flow meter the car would show similar symptoms, but would also feel a little lumpy when cruising at certain rpms...  The air flow meter can easily be tested with a gas analyser..
Latest problem started out  like your problem, but developed into something worse... It now has a hot start issue...  Basically wont start when its hot...  I currently suspect the cylinder head temp sensor on No3... waiting to get my car back from the body shop so I can check this..  Bentley details what resistance I should expect..
Two cheap simple options would be ..
1.   Check the earth strap between the trans and the body.. If this is duff it will cause all types of issues..
2. Many running issues it there is nothing mechanically wrong are sorted by a good service and tune by a specialist.. I pay about £280 all in..
You have to remember it is common for a 3.2 to run a little uneaen after starting from cold, but I admit they shouldn't stop..
adam.

You should also replace the fuel accumulator if you have a hot start problem.

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[BENNY]

Andrew did you ever sort out idle problem mines identical,

BENNY.


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[carlh]

just say i have an 89 911 and it cuts out too, its a drag




Migration info. Legacy thread was 14325

 

[Kees Deacon]

Hi,

Just read this string and agree with all on it!! - I have a totally original 88 supersport on only 30k miles with that has both these issues. The stalling whilst pulling up at junctions within the first 5 minutes issue was fixed by changing the (original!!) distributor cap n rotor.

Mind you, the car still runs on 5 cylinders for about 10 seconds when started cold?? Any idea's?? Plugs n leads are fine, wondered if it might be a gummy injector or something on the fuel side?? Would it be worth getting the system flushed??

As for the oil temp reading - mines the same - never goes much above 1/4. My temp guage also keeps steaming up too. IS this a known problem?? Other than being anoying, I wondered if the moisture might be stopping the needle moving freely?? Any ideas how to get the guage out of the dash so it can be de-steamed/checked??

Thank

Kees


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[Jamie Summers]

Kees,

Oil temp reading is fine - lots of other threads on this subject, have a bit of a search around.

Guage steaming up - another v. common 911 quirk along with the really poor backlighting, nothing to worry about, should clear with a good hard drive - welcome to the joys of 911 ownership !

Jamie


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[bones]

How can you tell it's five cylinders? If you really can isolate it to one cylinder (and you know for sure which one) then you are ahead of the game. Try changing the plug , the injector, the plug lead and or cap. Before you do all that get someone to stand behind the car when you start it up from cold who knows how much oil smoke a cold 911 should put out at cold start. If there is more than acceptable it's possible a valve is sticking open slightly (worn guide, crud on the valve seat etc.) and allowing more oil through when the engine is off. On start up the excess oil fouls the plug for a few seconds. Only a theory but it's worth thinking about, does the car perform well apart from this?
The gauges are removed by either putting your nails behind the just visible black gasket and gently pulling and prising or getting a hard thin but non cutting/damaging implement behind the same rubber gasket. They are a simple push in pull out fit. Send the clock to Speedy cables in Wales for a check over or ring them for advice on 01639-732213

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