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In precis it looks like the mild steel plate is to stop the stainless steel flange from warping, or if you look at it another way the mild steel plate is a giant washer.I see what you mean now , very clear in your pictures.
So you think the mild steel was there for strengthening the manifold ? When I looked at the manifolds bolts that had come out of my Boxster many years ago , it looked like the part that was in that mild steel section (6mm or so) was where all the corrosion had occurred and was the reason the head snapped off , it was much thinner in that section.
I did have photos but can't find them.
It will be cost and weight. Takes twice as long to fit a stud and then put a nut on that stud. Two parts will also cost more than one. The bolts are marginally lighter than studs and nuts.Good point, no idea why Porsche didn't fit studs from the factory
I’ve been scratching my head a bit with this one!In precis it looks like the mild steel plate is to stop the stainless steel flange from warping, or if you look at it another way the mild steel plate is a giant washer.
I had been thinking the same thing. How is the mild affixed to the stainless? Too thick to spot weld?I’ve been scratching my head a bit with this one!
Unless I’m reading it wrong, the manifolds already on the car are stainless steel with as described above, a mild steel giant washer?
My little brain is going why not find out the thickness of the mild steel and replace the existing manifolds, after they have been cleaned up, with new stainless steel washers that would be pretty simple to have made up anywhere with the facilities to laser cut up some fancy washers from a drawing?
Hence, saving a small fortune in replacing your existing stainless steel manifold……with a more expensive stainless steel manifold?!
Am I missing something obvious?
I’m going to get the car into my unit next week, drop the bumper off and all the head shields etc and start looking at what the issue really is.I had been thinking the same thing. How is the mild affixed to the stainless? Too thick to spot weld?
Just to add that the original exhaust manifold gasket is a very thin steel item. When I refitted the original manifolds I used a conventional aftermarket thich gasket and the result was perfection.The jig is worth every penny!
The mild steel plate is part of the manifold. I have no idea how it is affixed, suffice to say it is part of the manifold.
Interestingly the stainless steel manifold, such as the ones I have spare, are much thicker so the are a single piece and not a 2 piece construction.
As a generality ' if it aint blowing, it dont need changing'. This advice alone will save you £380. (please send my 10% commission for advice to the following bank account).
I have to say that drilling out the bolts is very theraputic, unless you are doing it laying on your back under the rear of the car.
I'd suggest slim if they were standard plated steel items but there's only way of telling. In the words of Clint Eastwood 'do you feel luckly punk?' But then it only takes one to shear and your'e on the slippery slope. Many would say if you haven't got a problem stay clear but them things can only get worse. I chose to bite the bullet and renew anyway.. a big job. But once done properly it's done for life.Thought I’d jump on this thread as it’s live. Thinking about changing manifolds for stainless items, the history suggests new manifold gaskets we’re fitted just over 12 years ago and bolts replaced, what’s the chances I’ll get those bolts out in one piece 32,000 miles later?![]()