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Advice for a 996 noob?

Nice one. You've got the last revision of the 3.4 engine, known as M96.04 and was the final revision of the 3.4 engine and aimed at the American market due to their emission laws. Some say it was the best M96 engine made due to various improvements over earlier versions........and the 3.6 was based on an older version, either M96.02 or .03. Can't remember which.

Just to let you know, before you get confused and ask on here. The AWD 996s have a saddle shape petrol tank due to the front drive train. The mechanical gauge only measures the top 2/3rds of the tank, the bottom 3rd is done by calculations in the ECU. Because of this, if you put fuel in, the gauge will only respond if you fill up past the lower point of the mechanical gauge. So for example, if the petrol light is on and you put £20, then the gauge will stay with the petrol light on and not have moved. It's not a fault or anything to worry about, but it always gets new owners of C$, C4S and Turbo variants.
 
Nice one. You've got the last revision of the 3.4 engine, known as M96.04 and was the final revision of the 3.4 engine and aimed at the American market due to their emission laws. Some say it was the best M96 engine made due to various improvements over earlier versions........and the 3.6 was based on an older version, either M96.02 or .03. Can't remember which.

Just to let you know, before you get confused and ask on here. The AWD 996s have a saddle shape petrol tank due to the front drive train. The mechanical gauge only measures the top 2/3rds of the tank, the bottom 3rd is done by calculations in the ECU. Because of this, if you put fuel in, the gauge will only respond if you fill up past the lower point of the mechanical gauge. So for example, if the petrol light is on and you put £20, then the gauge will stay with the petrol light on and not have moved. It's not a fault or anything to worry about, but it always gets new owners of C$, C4S and Turbo variants.
Yet more golden nuggets, thanks.

My first job is to remove the double DIN head unit and return the centre console to stock, complete with original CDR-22 that came with the car, relocation of the climate control unit from the lower consol back to the upper dash, and addition of the 4 CD holder unit, option code 424. Factory stock is very important to me and I've not interest in apple car play, nav, bluetooth etc, nor sound quality.

I'll need to scour eBay to find the correct parts as I guess the upper centre dash housing will have been cut to make way for a Double DIN.

I'm guessing I'll need these? (Pics from ebay)

Please let me know if you think I'll need anything else or if those are incorrect?

1714308535742.png


1714308604257.png
1714308640092.png
 
You may also want to decide if you want to do a console delete, like the 996 GT3 had.

Personally I don't like it but I know many do (especially those 6 foot plus):

1714312264983.png
 
Hi all, just joined the forum as I begin my journey toward my first 911.

A 996 is the only 911 within my budget (for a really nice car) so this is where I'm aiming.

Whilst I'm experienced in running older and classic cars and have a reasonable automotive knowledge and skill set, I openly admit that I'm not up to the job of effectively appraising a 996 and their specific quirks. Whilst I feel confident with the usual used car checks such as recognising factory paint, spotting non-factory panel gaps etc, I don't know what I'm looking at on a 996, beyond all the usual stuff like IMS, bore scoring etc.

I've always tried to buy cars privately because (perhaps overly cynically) past experience has taught me that typically, traders/retailers' margin seldom delivers value for money in terms of superior quality or prep standards. However, from my initial research, I'm starting to lean toward buying a car from a specialist with a strong reputation for prep and quality as the safer bet in the long run, given my marque inexperience.

So my first question is, who are the go to guys with bullet proof reputations for quality and prep standards, where their retail premium is absolutely worth paying for, and who are more likely to stock 996s?

I could also do with some guidance as to the market for these cars, as like most, I want to buy well and be able to sell easily in the future if I need to. My default mindset is the lower the miles and fewer the owners the better. To me, and I may be wrong here, but the higher the number of owners, the greater the likelihood of deferred maintenance and quick flip shenanigans. I know that ultra low miles cars come with their own set of issues and challenges, but like for like, a high miles car subject to the same use parameters will be more worn out than a low miles car - common sense, right?

I see lots of cars with 7, 8, 9+ owners and can't help being rather put off by these - my subconscious position being to hold out for a 2/3 owner car. Likewise, I can't help but be turned off with cars over 100k miles, again preferring a car with less than 70k.

I can't give any robust reason why that is my preference other than I feel that if I ever want to sell in the future, others may adopt a similar mindset, preferring lower owners and miles, making it easier to sell?

This is where I could do with some insight into the 996 market - is there a prejudice against higher owners and miles, or are cars with say 8+ owners and 100k+ miles no problem to sell on?

All and any guidance and advice much appreciated.
I recently bought a 2001 996 from eporshe in bisley near Woking. 23 year old car with 120,000 miles £13k and worth every penny , the dealer did £2.7k of pre sale works before selling
3 months in and touch wood all that’s gone wrong is an indicator stalk which I believe is a common problem
Definitely go with a specialist !
 
I recently bought a 2001 996 from eporshe in bisley near Woking. 23 year old car with 120,000 miles £13k and worth every penny , the dealer did £2.7k of pre sale works before selling
3 months in and touch wood all that’s gone wrong is an indicator stalk which I believe is a common problem
Definitely go with a specialist !
Good value!! Coupe/cab/4/2/tip/manual?
 
You may also want to decide if you want to do a console delete, like the 996 GT3 had.

Personally I don't like it but I know many do (especially those 6 foot plus):

View attachment 100040
I can see the merits, but I'm keen to keep it stock. Interesting that all the parts I find on eBay show as not compatible with my car. The part you said I don't need, what is that? Guessing a separate part from a 996.2 model?
 
The part I said you don't need is the lower centre console where your HVAC is currently slotted in. That part is already on your car, you'll just slide the HVAC out and slot the cubby in, then the CD tray goes above it, like so:

1714318081765.png



Make sure on any parts you get that they're for the gen 1. Lower console is the same but upper central part has cup holders on the Gen 2 between the air vents and head unit.

Have a browse of some write-ups I did around those two areas:



You should get a good feel from those on what you need to do to take it back to stock.
 
OP, if you're after a factory single din unit I have a becker traffic pro head unit complete with cd's, instructions and codes... excellent condition in full working order from my 99 C4.
 
OP, if you're after a factory single din unit I have a becker traffic pro head unit complete with cd's, instructions and codes... excellent condition in full working order from my 99 C4.
Thanks, but I have the original CDR-22 removed from the car that I'll refit. Appreciate it though!
 
Seller may also have the parts you need to go back to.
 

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