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997.2 Major Service Cost

Engine mounts are an easy one. Buy Lemforder engine mounts and DIY for around £260 all in. If they need doing, then it makes a noticeable difference and they are dead easy to replace yourself.
 
moo75x said:
worth booking it in to CoG for a review and assessment - they will be able to give you great advice of what is "needed" against "desired" and also give you an idea of how much life is left in some components, it might only be a best guess but their worst guess is better than my best.............
Click to expand...

Yep, CG will assess your suspension fully and only recommend stuff that needs to be replaced. They are very honest and transparent, so you know whatever they recommend will be spot on. And just to clarify, I'm not saying other Indies aren't honest (most are), it's just I can speak from experience regarding CG and most on here would consider them the best in the business for Porsche suspension.
 
Nicholasrage said:
Oh god. I should show them this, they said it was completely buggered. It was my idea to get the clutch because I couldn hardly select first or second gear
Click to expand...
could have been the notchy box issue and not the clutch............ o_O
 
Am I correct, your quote for suspension work shows 1 rear shock replacement? I can't see the other being replaced on previous invoices unless I missed it?
Probably not a good idea to replace just 1 if that is the case, better replaced as a pair.

I can also echo others comments regarding CG, get them to inspect and refresh your suspension if required. And alignment, chalk and cheese result on my car.
 
Nicholasrage said:
Oh god. I should show them this, they said it was completely buggered. It was my idea to get the clutch because I couldn hardly select first or second gear
Click to expand...


If the engine mounts are shot, which if original will be by now, gear changes and catching the bite is crap, and you tend to ride the clutch a bit too much, if you have the wrong transmission fluid in as well, which makes 1st and 2nd really hard to engage, this makes matters even worse, you are again riding the clutch trying to get the gears to drop in.

So someone could have easily knackered the clutch in 15k miles if that was not right.


Look at the date stamp on the engine mounts, anything older than 2019, change them.

Get that PTX in the transmission too.

Then take it from there.
 
does the PTX stuff work for all gearboxes - namely my 993 tip.......
 
It looks like I’m getting a few good used parts thrown in to keep the cost down. Luke called me and said one rear shock looks recently replaced so they only need to do one. Also one side of a good used exhaust because it’s rattling.

I feel more confident now I’ve spoken to him, I feel like I should just bite the bullet, in too deep to turn around. He said there’s no point in putting shitty parts back in once they’re out. It’s true.

I wanted new semi solid engine mounts anyway because I heard it makes it a bit “rawer” don’t know if that’s true or not.

I just wasn’t prepared at all for a 9 grand refurb, I expected maybe a third of that.
 
It will make it a lot "rawer"!

I would look at some rubber ones, if you want a bit firmer without loads of cabin noise go with a 75A harness.

Standard are 65A from memory.

These are what I would use, if you want firmer without it being harsh and noisy....

type911shop.co.uk

996 Turbo / 997 Turbo / 997.2 RS Engine Mount Set 75 Shore Aftermarket

96437504381KIT Complete set of 2 x mounts (7A) 96437504381, 2 x bolts (7C) 90008211801, 4 x washers (8A) 99902513402, 4 x seats (7B) 90130531100, 4 x washers (7D) 99902507401, 2 x nuts (10) 99908421501 & 4 x bolts (9) 90037815901 to uprate 996 turbo, 997 turbo & 997 Gen 2 to 993RS engine mount...
type911shop.co.uk type911shop.co.uk







With the Eibach springs and new B4 dampers all round, it will feel nice.
Turn in will be much nicer.

If it were me I wouldn't go too aggressive on the Geo.


For me I like around 0.05 of negative camber up front with 0.04 toe in.
Then around 1.5 of negative camber on the rear and quite a lot of toe in on the rear, around 0.14 of toe in.

This stops it darting all over the road, nice steering weight with steering that goes where you point it, and the back end has to be pushed fairly hard to kick out, so very confidence inspiring. It will feel very planted and not twitchy, which is what happens when people ask for a fast road/occasional track set up.

That tends to be around 1.0 negative camber, 0.02 toe in up front and then 1.8 negative rear and 0.10 toe in. Great for a track, but can feel a bit tail happy for the road. All imho of course.
 
More really great info, I’m learning a lot here. I do like it rawer.

That’s what she said.

I should ask them about fluid.

She probably said that as well.
 
gizlaroc said:
Engine mounts, before and after.

Great video, I like the look of that. Is a sprinkle of NVH desirable? because I feel like it needs a bit. It’s funny how we’re (or at least I’m) trying to de-refine something intended to be comfortable. Feels like an oxymoron.


I have started it at the bit where you can see the difference in clutch action with old mounts vs new.......
Click to expand...
 
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