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993 Warm Hot Starting Issues

I had the same issue also caused great embarrassment when it struggled to start after refueling. Previous independent said it would be deteriorated wiring needing an engine drop to fix. Current mechanic straight away said it was the starter motor, new unit cured the problem.
 
It wasn’t the starter on the 930, it had a new one in along with a new battery during the refurb and would crank all day long, but wouldn’t start.
 
Same here, same symptoms and starter was never considered.
 
Hi there, if you're still having issues with this it's quite common on a few models (3.2 Carrera, 964,993,996) where the speed/reference sensor swells with heat and affects the air gap spec, this can be replaced and/or fitted to correct air gap spec to resolve the issues.
 
My 930 is apparently fixed, I'm still away and won't collect it for a couple of weeks, but my guy has replaced everything it could be, new WUR, new accumulator, the CIS body (or whatever it's called) stripped and checked. He did say the flap that opens when you open the throttle (I don't know the proper name for it) wasn't seated properly and so that's been rectified and now it starts under all circumstances, hot, warm, cold, etc.

I suppose if that was letting too much air through because it wasn't seated then it would weaken the mixture and maybe not start when hot, whereas when cold the system would richen the mixture anyway and maybe compensate - but I'm guessing here, I only know it's working via text with a very brief explanation, so I'll find out properly when I'm back.

I told him to replace everything, so that might have not been necessary, but hopefully now it'll last a few decades, the old original stuff lasted 30+ years.
 
Harryblue said:
My 930 is apparently fixed, I'm still away and won't collect it for a couple of weeks, but my guy has replaced everything it could be, new WUR, new accumulator, the CIS body (or whatever it's called) stripped and checked. He did say the flap that opens when you open the throttle (I don't know the proper name for it) wasn't seated properly and so that's been rectified and now it starts under all circumstances, hot, warm, cold, etc.

I suppose if that was letting too much air through because it wasn't seated then it would weaken the mixture and maybe not start when hot, whereas when cold the system would richen the mixture anyway and maybe compensate - but I'm guessing here, I only know it's working via text with a very brief explanation, so I'll find out properly when I'm back.

I told him to replace everything, so that might have not been necessary, but hopefully now it'll last a few decades, the old original stuff lasted 30+ years.
Click to expand...
Hi, did they tell you what the exact fix was?
 
rosscodavies said:
Hi, did they tell you what the exact fix was?
Click to expand...

He's fairly convinced that it was the flap thing on the fuel system that wasn't seated properly and was letting too much air through, like I said I could point to it but I don't know what to call it, so when hot it wasn't getting an enriched mixture and it was so lean because it was letting so much air through that it wouldn't fire up, when cold the WUR would add fuel, so it compensated.

But I told him to just change everything in one hit rather than mess about tracing it, so we'll never know.
It starts perfectly every time now.
 
If youve not replaced the distributor caps, and plug wires and plugs, buy some beru ones and have a go.
Its a challenging job, and with some tiny tiny screw drivers, the body being as fat as two 50p pieces stuck together, its do-able.
Your wiring's hot, and breaking down.
Nonsense about an engine drop to do these, just take your time.
 
Beru? Now there's a coincidence! I've spent an inordinate amount of time studying this car recently...

6432_0_6bf7995839c01e47d89c4ba749d8e277f2082d4e.jpg
 
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