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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1141
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I've figured out a solution - been doing my head in. We need to reverse the polarity of the LED (the white square one that connects on Pin 1 of the P switch) - means removing it and resoldering back on the opposite way round. Then connect the OE switch through pins 1 and 2 of the P switch leaving pins 3 and 4 disconnected.
Anyone up for trying this before I retrieve mine from the car.

Actually thinking on - has anyone tried connecting just 1 and 2 both polarities to see if this works without switching the LED round?
 



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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1141
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorted

Pins 1 and 2 - no need to do anything else with the switch
 
  
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markiii
Imola


Joined: 07 Mar 2011
Posts: 757



PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

not sure what you meant there, is it now working and what did you do?
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1141
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah - Working,
Forget about pins 3 and 4.
Wire your OE remote switch to pins 1 and 2 on the P switch - you need the correct polarity, so may need to switch the cables around. Press the button and the orange LED comes on. Some times it helps to draw out the problem - Once I did that the solution became apparent.

Clanky - suggest you cut your pin 4 and you will probably see that 40% LED restored to 100%.
 



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markiii
Imola


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so you left the internals of the switch alone and connected

Pin 1 - ?
Pin 2 - ?
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1141
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

markiii wrote:
so you left the internals of the switch alone and connected

Pin 1 - ?
Pin 2 - ?


Correct - See my crude circuit diagram above for the switch - it was only once I'd drawn those two out that I realised the only difference was the polarity that changed and that could be done at the remote end.

Pin 1 to OE switch, Pin 2 to other side of OE switch, depending upon polarity the remote and LED will either both work or both won't work.
 
  
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markiii
Imola


Joined: 07 Mar 2011
Posts: 757



PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

halfway house then it will light and show that the battery is working/not or switched jammed/not, but won't confirm transmission

still that's better than I currently have will give it a go
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1141
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's exactly what happens in the remote. The circuit is closed the transmitter and led are powered. The transmitter may be faulty but the led would still flash
 
  
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1141
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's exactly what happens in the remote. The circuit is closed the transmitter and led are powered. The transmitter may be faulty but the led would still flash
 
  
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1141
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's exactly what happens in the remote. The circuit is closed the transmitter and led are powered. The transmitter may be faulty but the led would still flash

Apologies for the triple post - new phone.
 
  
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Clanky
Imola


Joined: 24 Aug 2012
Posts: 840
Location: Scotland

2007 Porsche 997 Turbo

PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gollom122 wrote:
Yeah - Working,
Forget about pins 3 and 4.
Wire your OE remote switch to pins 1 and 2 on the P switch - you need the correct polarity, so may need to switch the cables around. Press the button and the orange LED comes on. Some times it helps to draw out the problem - Once I did that the solution became apparent.

Clanky - suggest you cut your pin 4 and you will probably see that 40% LED restored to 100%.


Makes sense to me.
Does that mean the Porsche switch has that resistor in line to drop the voltage from 12v to around 3v for the LED?
I have a feeling that's why I took the power for the LED piggy backed off the remote PCB.
I was worried that sending 12v through it would likely work for a while but would eventually fry the button LED.
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1141
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The P switch will be 12v as is my remotes battery.
 
  
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Clanky
Imola


Joined: 24 Aug 2012
Posts: 840
Location: Scotland

2007 Porsche 997 Turbo

PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gollom122 wrote:
The P switch will be 12v as is my remotes battery.


Mine too, but the voltage to the LED is reduced to 3ish volts to avoid burning it out.
I assume the resistor on the PCB of the Porsche switch does the same job?
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1141
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

depends upon the spec of the LED - not looked too closely, however I would suspect in the P that all LED's are 12v.
 
  
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bertyw
Trainee


Joined: 21 Jun 2013
Posts: 95



PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That will work but the resistor for the LED will reduce the voltage across the remote switch, presumably this doesn't matter. Anyone found a 'lights on' supply up in the panel ? It could be used to light the diode through pin 3 and 4 with perhaps isolating the common between 2 and 3 to keep the remote in isolation.
 
  
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1141
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cannot see how that would wire up with this switch.
 
  
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bertyw
Trainee


Joined: 21 Jun 2013
Posts: 95



PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well i've modified the remote and installed it just waiting for the switch. Will see the what works best. Porsche must be wondering why this demand for garage switches !!
 
  
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1141
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bertyw wrote:
Well i've modified the remote and installed it just waiting for the switch. Will see the what works best. Porsche must be wondering why this demand for garage switches !!



bertyw - You will find it near impossible to work your way around isolating the common pin 4 - It's everywhere. You might get away with creating a 5th connection by cutting the exit point of pin 3's led across the pcb (right hand side of the top left of picture above) and routing a cable out of the body of the switch back to the lighting circuit. Let us know how you get on - pictures required.
 
  
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bertyw
Trainee


Joined: 21 Jun 2013
Posts: 95



PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fitted and working using pins 1&2 with correct polarity. Led works and range is fine.
 
  
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Maxie
General
General


Joined: 11 Mar 2007
Posts: 8366
Location: London


PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just picked up my switch today. Am not liking the look of this....

~ Maxie frustrated
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