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Gollom122
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Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1139
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tried it - did'nt work
 



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markiii
Imola


Joined: 07 Mar 2011
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thought it might not, surely all that achieved is giving an easier path for the current to get to the common terminal than going through the led, and thus bypassed it completely?
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2006 997 Targa 4S Midnight Blue
1979 928 Mocha Shwarz
 
  
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1139
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It works - Just needs tidying up a bit - I was looking at the wrong LED
 



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markiii
Imola


Joined: 07 Mar 2011
Posts: 757



PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maxie wrote:
markiii wrote:
nope think I'm going to need t hand my electronics degree back at this rate


I gave mine back a long time ago! Floor

My switch is on order from Hatfield OPC whom reports 'there have been a backload of these orders in the last few days - what's going on?' Grin

God knows how I am going get mine to work if Markiii can't!

~ Maxie Surprised


funny enough I had a similar conversation with Katie on Thursday about some guy who has started a run on 997 3rd rad kits. Your name may have come up Smile
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1139
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

job done

Last edited by Gollom122 on Sat Sep 07, 2013 6:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
 



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markiii
Imola


Joined: 07 Mar 2011
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so which of the two LEDs have you managed to light?
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1139
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I put the switch back together and the LED does NOT light. I am at a loss now as to why it worked in the first place as I cannot emulate it again.
Sorry.
 
  
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markiii
Imola


Joined: 07 Mar 2011
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had a few bizzare moments where I thought stuff had worked and then couldn't reproduce it, at least that now makes sense as I couldn't for the life of me see how it would have worked.

come on Clanky we need insight
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1139
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Installed the mod into my car - those screws are a bit tight, but it went in no bother - wrapped the remote in some bubble wrap in case of rattles.
I've just had a thought about the LED, I think we need a return wire to Neg - Think about it, we are in line for the switch but just have a live to the LED, no return. If we use pin 3, cut the pbc track to it so it becomes disconnected from its circuit and then wire from pin 2 to the LED like I did in my previous post, but then from the other side of the LED, connect that to the now dead Pin 3 and wire that back to Neg on the remote - will that work?
 
  
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markiii
Imola


Joined: 07 Mar 2011
Posts: 757



PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think so but I also thnk the connection from the led that goes to the existing common will need cutting

Problem with that is it loos like a multilayer board so it's not easy to cut
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bertyw
Trainee


Joined: 21 Jun 2013
Posts: 95



PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've given up on the LED's, never look at them anyway, if the garage door doesn't work then investigate. There is no use in making the LED work if it doesn't confirm that the device is transmitting. The only way as I see it is to take the LED out of the remote and run two fly leads from its connections to the relevant LED in the switch in isolation.
 
  
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markiii
Imola


Joined: 07 Mar 2011
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 11:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think reassigning pin 3 would confirm its transmitting so long as you still connect pin1 to led high side on the pcb and the new pin 3 to remote battery -ve
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Clanky
Imola


Joined: 24 Aug 2012
Posts: 821
Location: Scotland

2007 Porsche 997 Turbo

PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 2:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry guys, I haven't been receiving updates on this for some reason so just catching up.

I had a problem the first time around not getting the LED to light up, but for the life of me cant remember what it was now.

I can tell you that after I got it all working, the LED on the switch operates at approx 40% brightness. I put that down to running two in parallel.

Looking at it now, it may be a case of that resistor dropping the voltage enough that it's not working at all in yours. DOES YOUR REMOTE HAVE A 12V OR 3V BATTERY?
(Maybe you could check the voltage after the resistor if you put 12v through it?)

Also now that I've seen inside the switch I suspect that the odd pin is for night illumination when the lights are switched on.

I also recall having the same problem one of the ways I tried wiring it up causing the switch & garage remote LED's to stay on & nothing else worked.

Sorry to say, but I'm offshore now until mid October so can't take it out for a look to see the exact configuration again.

All I can remember is the ground from both the button & LED were common & "Y" spliced to pin 4.

It could be that you are sending pins 2 & 4 to the wrong side of the switch, therefore sending another +v to the LED, cancelling it out if you know what I mean?
I'm sure I have a note book with me with all the details which I'll check when I go off shift.
Failing that, I'll see what sense I can make of your pictures & mine & come to some conclusion.

Regarding the rush for switches from OPC, I'm feeling rather chuffed I may have started a wee trend here Wink
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1139
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

markiii wrote:
I think so but I also thnk the connection from the led that goes to the existing common will need cutting

Problem with that is it loos like a multilayer board so it's not easy to cut

Looking back at the pictures I cannot see how we could disconnect the LED from Common.
Or is there a way to repurpose the switch - (Pin 2 goes to the switch pad and then underground to Pin 4 (Common) ) Could it be cut beneath so it does not go to common and then jumpered onto 3 which is cut from the PCB. We then use 1 and 4 for the LED and use 2 and 3 for the switch?
 
  
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bertyw
Trainee


Joined: 21 Jun 2013
Posts: 95



PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess it depends on what you want the LED to do. Wiring it so that it comes on with the switch only confirms the batt voltage. If your remote LED confirms transmission then you would need to parallel that or move it.
 
  
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1139
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was thinking parallel the OE LED
 
  
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1139
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am now thinking of a different approach.
How about this idea - Take the OE remote and jump the switch so that it is permanently closed circuit. Break the battery connection in the OE remote and wire the battery +v via the P switch pin 2 back the the battery terminal via pin 4 so that when the P switch is pressed we have 12v running through the switch and the remote is powered and activated. Link pin 2 to pin 1 on the P switch so that the P switch lights the LED in the P switch - might that work?
 
  
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markiii
Imola


Joined: 07 Mar 2011
Posts: 757



PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 12:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Purely from the p switch led perspective is that any different to the previous attempt of wring pin 1 and 2 together?

Whilst connecting across the pcb switch?
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1979 928 Mocha Shwarz
 
  
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1139
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 1:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

markiii wrote:
Purely from the p switch led perspective is that any different to the previous attempt of wring pin 1 and 2 together?

Whilst connecting across the pcb switch?


Well - I don't have a multi meter so I am not sure what voltage is carried across the OE switch - it may be that resistors are pulling the 12v down as the switch will not need a great deal of voltage over it. Doing it this way means that we are definitely pulling a 12v rail across the P switch and the P LED is a 12v LED for sure.
 
  
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Gollom122
Suzuka


Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1139
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The more I think about this the less confident I am about getting the LED to work with the switch without major modification.
 
  
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