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Lightweight flywheel and clutch

Stuart

Well-known member
Joined
16 Sep 2007
Messages
5,150
Hi,

I'm about to go down this route and wondering what others have done.

1) Installed LWFW from 996/997.1 part# 964.102.239.31
2) Installed LWFW from 997.2 part# 964.102.239.81 (actually 2005 Cup part)
3) Installed LWFW together with new RS clutch kit
4) Installed LWFW only using existing clutch

I'll install the appropriate LW crank pulley at the same time together with friction washer 996.102.203.90

Any driveability issues, eg stalling etc? Deals on complete 'kit' known?

Thanks.

:thumb:
 
I did option 3, worth it :thumb:
 
Cunno said:
I did option 3, worth it :thumb:

Cheers Jon, who did the work?

I'll probably get the cup diff plates put in at the same time.
 
can I just say for your vehicle, if your're changing the flywheel plus the diff you should also fit uprated engine mounts.

the cup diff and engine mounts go hand in hand and will transform the handling in a seriously good way.

just the diff is kind of half the job really, have a look at WEVO, their engine mounts look and perform exquisitely.
 
anyone know if option 3 can be fitted to a gen 1 997 Carrera S?
 
Stuart said:
Cunno said:
I did option 3, worth it :thumb:

Cheers Jon, who did the work?

I'll probably get the cup diff plates put in at the same time.

Sports & classic along with everything else I had done. Cup diff plates a must

Jon
 
bobsan said:
can I just say for your vehicle, if your're changing the flywheel plus the diff you should also fit uprated engine mounts.

the cup diff and engine mounts go hand in hand and will transform the handling in a seriously good way.

just the diff is kind of half the job really, have a look at WEVO, their engine mounts look and perform exquisitely.

And if you're doing the mounts (I have 964RS mounts with custom adapters so that they fit into the engine hanger correctly), you're also only doing half the job unless you also do the gearbox mount. Fit the one from the 997.2 GT3 for the ultimate mount.

Also, if your doing the LWFW thing (I did option 3 too, BTW), you should also fit the RS pulley to the other end.

ETA: You should also get it remapped after doing the LWFW as you won't get the full benefit of the increased rate of pickup unless you do.
 
^^what he said^^
I didn't mention the gear mount as after the LWFW plus the engine mounts the cabin noise increase is well on the way, the gearbox might be one two far, try the first two see how you fell.
 
bobsan said:
^^what he said^^
I didn't mention the gear mount as after the LWFW plus the engine mounts the cabin noise increase is well on the way, the gearbox might be one two far, try the first two see how you fell.

Thanks guys. Already have the RS motor mounts (and longer bolt thanks to James). Will look at the transmission mount when it's out. Was even thinking about cup cables but the noise of those might be a step too far at the moment. Lighter pulley already bought.

Nick, did Fearnsport do yours? Tried calling/ emailing for quote but they are always busy. Looking at possibly these guys...

http://www.castune.com/

:dont know:
 
Yes Stuart, Fearnsport. They're mad busy at the moment. I have the magic batphone number. Do you want me to get Matt to call you?
 
NXI20 said:
Yes Stuart, Fearnsport. They're mad busy at the moment. I have the magic batphone number. Do you want me to get Matt to call you?

If I don't hear anything by end of the week I'll use the batphone offer. Thanks.
 
bobsan said:
can I just say for your vehicle, if your're changing the flywheel plus the diff you should also fit uprated engine mounts.

the cup diff and engine mounts go hand in hand and will transform the handling in a seriously good way.

just the diff is kind of half the job really, have a look at WEVO, their engine mounts look and perform exquisitely.

Hi - if I can ask a noddy question, what are the benefits of updated engine and gearbox mounts?
 
puntograle said:
Hi - if I can ask a noddy question, what are the benefits of updated engine and gearbox mounts?

It stops the engine moving as though its on a short, stiff spring. There's a perceptible delay in the response from the rear when you are changing direction quickly, particularly on track and in a chicane. Stiffer mounts dials all that out and makes you feel more connected with what the car is doing at the expense of a bit of extra noise & vibration.

The 997.2 GT3 achieves the same thing through active engine mounts which stiffen under lateral load.
 
NXI20 said:
puntograle said:
Hi - if I can ask a noddy question, what are the benefits of updated engine and gearbox mounts?

It stops the engine moving as though its on a short, stiff spring. There's a perceptible delay in the response from the rear when you are changing direction quickly, particularly on track and in a chicane. Stiffer mounts dials all that out and makes you feel more connected with what the car is doing at the expense of a bit of extra noise & vibration.

The 997.2 GT3 achieves the same thing through active engine mounts which stiffen under lateral load.

Thanks Nick. Makes sense. Is there anyway to describe hiw much extra noise and vibration?
 
puntograle said:
Thanks Nick. Makes sense. Is there anyway to describe hiw much extra noise and vibration?

Well, in the case of my car, which has fully rose jointed suspension & is also running Cup cables, the cabin noise increase is negligible :D
Maybe I'm not the best person to ask!

It's really the extra vibration that is particularly noticeable as you get up above 7K RPM, but it's in no way harsh. If you do any serious track work, engine & gearbox mounts are an essential upgrade IMO. If it's just a road car, I'd leave it alone.
 

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