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steveoz
Monza


Joined: 21 Mar 2011
Posts: 162



PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 10:01 am    Post subject: 996: Replacing AOS Bellow Reply with quote

Somewhat of a tricky job, but if you are used to standing on your head and fidling around in tight spots then it's not all that bad!

I did this on axle stands, and it took me around 45 minutes from start to finish, including getting the car in the air and the wheel off and all back together.

First was to remove the old perished bellow, ideally you want to use lockable hose clamp pliers with a cable for easy access, but I used angled (aprox 30 degree) long needle nose pliers which just required a bit more work with my hands (those spring clamps are VERY strong).

A few pics:

The corrigated pipe to the left of the connector, I removed the variocam connector and moved out of the way a little so it wouldn't get damaged in the process.



It was a little hard to take a picture while removing the clips (i didn't have enough hands!). The clips require a bit of force to push together and release them, but I positioned the pliers on the edges of the clamp, squeezed hard to put them totally together and release it, and then pulled the pipe off of the AOS with my other hand.



Once the top was pulled off, I then pinched the bottom clamp together to release it and lifted the clamp upwards. The bellow was stuck on the cylinder block, so I needed to gently pry with a flatblade.



The bellow removed:



Old bellow:



New:



New vs old:




I then positioned a new stainless jubilee clamp on the top of the new bellow, it was wound out and loose at the time to allow the bellow to be pushed onto the bottom of the AOS. I then tightened slightly to hold it on. The next stage was putting an unwound jubliee clamp over the bottom of the pipe (whilst bending it outward away from the bottom) and then manipulating the bottom of the bellow over the pipe on the block. This was a little tricky, in that I needed to push my finger through the space in the middle and stretch it around the bottom pipe from the back forwards, it's a little hard to explain..



As you can see, I managed to tigten with a very large and long flat blade:



Completed and vanos connector back on:



There we go, oil pressure seems to have increase slightly from 1-1.5 to around 2 on tick over, at throttle it's roughly the same.

The bellow cost aprox £10 from an OPC.


Cheers,


Steve

*edit, I clearly meant Variocam not vanos on the last picture Smile going back to my bmw days there....*
 
  
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ELA
Barcelona


Joined: 30 Aug 2011
Posts: 1290
Location: Nurburgring Doorstep


PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Steve, I have a very slight leak from my car and haven't yet diagnosed where this eminates from. From the picture below, do you think this could also be my problem? Also are these photos you have taken from above or below?


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CLR996 1086kg bespoke design
 
  
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steveoz
Monza


Joined: 21 Mar 2011
Posts: 162



PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am really sorry for the insanely long delay in responding. You have no doubt fixed it a long time ago, but yes, this pipe and area can be caked in oil as the result of a cracked air oil separator pipe (stating for future reference for anyone looking at this).

It will likely not only make the pipe gunky, but the area around it.

From memory another cause of oil around the side of this area are the variocam lids which are also easily replaced.


Cheers!
 
  
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