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Becker install on a MOST system (with some pictures, etc)..

speed8

Well-known member
Joined
23 May 2009
Messages
211
Seeing as there seems to be a few questions on installing aftermarket kit on a MOST system, here's what I did to install a Becker Cascade.
Usual disclaimers apply, this is not a guide, only a description of how I got round the issue. I'm not an audio installer, copy at your own risk, etc....

I wanted this to be reversible so that if I ever sell the car in the future I can return to standard if need be. For that reason I avoided cutting into existing wiring and just jumpered or used new wires where needed.

I had a quite a few more photos than this but my phone threw a wobbly and lost them before I managed to transfer them to my laptop.

I'll get a few dash pics in the morning and update the thread with them as I fitted a GT3 console delete kit to tidy it up a bit.

Must add that I had a few email conversations with Tino who had also been through this and cleared up a few of my questions.

This is some of what I removed from the car. It's a bit more than most as I removed the Nokia phone holder and also an aftermarket (non-touchscreen) Nav unit that was installed in the lower console and had a DVD unit in the front of the car.

becker2.jpg


My car was non-PCM so I then removed the head unit, CD changer and Bose amp. The orange cables for the fibre optic link are now redundant.
The factory head unit connector fits Becker anyway so no need for an adaptor but you do need to add a switched 12V feed from the fusebox as there doesn't seem to be anything nearby. Any audio installer should have mini-ISO pins and sockets for this.

I ran decent quality speaker outputs from the head unit through the bulkhead to go to my new amp (Alpine PDX-5). I also ran the 12V wake-up feed wire.
There's a large grommet in the bulkhead that can be accessed from the drivers footwell and comes out behind the battery at the bottom drivers side. You can also see the fuse holder I used for the 12V feed from the battery.

DSC00131.JPG


Now, you'll see that my 12V wake-up feed runs alongside my RCA cables. I have a slight hum which I can notice but nobody else seems to hear. I know it's there though so I'm going to try and find an alternative route for the 12V feed.

I already had a pre-drilled hole through the second bulkhead for the previous Nav system so I re-used that for the RCA cables and added some new grommets. I took my battery 12V feed through a seperate, larger, grommet which you can see in the photo below.

DSC00134.JPG


And a closer view of the battery feed.

DSC00133.JPG


I fit the new amp where the CD changer was located and re-used the CDC mounting bracket also by just bending one side straight to accomodate the Amp.

I didn't want to cut into the existing speaker wires so I used some connectors I had in the garage (they're for IP67 connectors I believe, found at places like RS Components or various car electrical suppliers).
With these I just plugged straight into the output connector from the Bose amp and put heatshrink over each one to avoid any shorting. I jumpered the FL dash and FL door together to make it 4 ohm and done the same for FR. The rears are already 4 ohm.

DSC00130.JPG


I didn't use the sub as I removed it to make extra load space for my sons travel cot but you can remove the sub and rewire the speakers inside to be in series which should change it from a 0.5 ohm speaker to a 1 ohm speaker. The PDX-5 should be able to handle that I would imagine.

Finally plugged everything in to the amp, connected up the Head Unit and it works!!!

DSC00129.JPG


And with the covers back on although I had to make a little bit of modification to the CDC cover with my Dremel just to get enough space for the wiring to be routed properly.

DSC00136.JPG



For the interior, as I mentioned I used the console delete kit. I have heated seats so I extended the wiring for the switches and moved them to the blanks behind the ashtray. All seems to be ok so far.

ETA:

Pic of HU installed

DSC00148.JPG


Pic of heated seat button moved to ashtray blank

DSC00149.JPG
 
I have a Cascade I want to install in my Boxster and I imagine it will be very similar. However I just wondered if you had to anything with the existing crossovers or even install new ones when jumping the dash speakers and door speakers together?
 
EddyH said:
I have a Cascade I want to install in my Boxster and I imagine it will be very similar. However I just wondered if you had to anything with the existing crossovers or even install new ones when jumping the dash speakers and door speakers together?

Didn't do a thing. I just wanted them to be a 4ohm set rather than 2 ohm so connected them in series, using a short jumper wire, at the connector from the Bose amp in the 5th picture I posted.

From amp to Door +
Door - to dash + (at connector)
Dash - to amp

or something like that.
 
Just one question from me, to the left in the first picture.

Are they pushchair or a golf trolley wheels?
 
whoareya said:
Just one question from me, to the left in the first picture.

Are they pushchair or a golf trolley wheels?

Pushchair for the wee fella.
 
speed8 said:
Didn't do a thing. I just wanted them to be a 4ohm set rather than 2 ohm so connected them in series, using a short jumper wire, at the connector from the Bose amp in the 5th picture I posted.

From amp to Door +
Door - to dash + (at connector)
Dash - to amp

or something like that.

Thanks. I might run mine directly from the internal amp on the HU first and see how it sounds before making the decision to buy an amp.
 
Just seen this!
Nice install, are you sure you aren't a pro car audio installer. I've seen worse jobs by people who have been in the business for several years!
Where did you get the amp from, and how much? They seem expensive for what they are, and its a shame you're not running the 5th channel, you may as well have gone for a normal 4 channel.
To see of the hum is being caused by the wake up wire(unlikely), simply disconnect from the amp side and bridge the main feed to the wake up.
Are you are running the +12v supply wire alongside the speaker or RCA's? This could cause a hum also, as can a poor earth.
 
Ahh, tino, thanks for the help with it. Compliments are always welcome but I'm just an amateur who's happy to have a go.

The main 12V cable is kept at least 6 inches away as much as possible. The wake up feed runs alongside but I haven't found a way through the bulkhead which will keep them seperate. Apparently there is a way through up above the throttle pedal but I haven't had time to look at the moment and it's cold outside now so I probably won't look till the summer comes back :)
It's a project for later but the missus doesn't hear the hum so maybe it's just me being picky.

The amp came from Sextons, iirc. They had the best price on it at the time. I thought about just going for the 4 channel but I'll put the sub back in once the wee man is a little bit older and we don't need so much stuff for him so I wanted to be able to just run a couple of wires to add it rather than a new amp. Future proof I guess ;)
 
I've started installing my Becker Cascade this week to replace the CDR23 and M490 amp.

I've had to add an ignition switched live to the ISO connector which I've picked up from the Climate unit, I also need to add an illumination feed which I plan to take from the ashtray light. On the plus side though there is already a reverse signal connection on the ISO connector. I've also found the CDR23 uses a Fakra aerial connection istead of ISO so I've had to order an adaptor for that too.

As I'm not planning to use an amp I need to install new speaker cables from the headunit. I'm just going to connect the dash speakers to get it up and running and have a look at the doors later as I think they are going to be a bit more difficult.
 
Eddy

What wire did you find on the climate unit? Do you remember what colour as I was looking for one but I couldn't find any and took it from the fusebox instead.

For the speakers, can you not just run some wire from the HU to the output connector on the M490 like I did for the Bose. It doesn't need to go through the amp to jumper into it. I used IP67 AMP Superseal pins from RS components, crimped with a bit of heat shrink. They fit in to the amp connector nicely.
 
It's a black wire with a blue tracer and it's in the black connector.

I may well end up reusing the wires for the door speakers but for the dash speakers I think it's easier just to go straight from the HU to the speakers rather than having to try and find a route through to the amp. It also means I can use upgraded wire whilst I'm doing it.
 
I managed to make use of the couple of dry hours we had on Sunday and got the Cascade installed.

Most of this time was spent making up the new speaker cable for the dash speakers. the routing of the speaker cable was pretty easy with the headunit, climate unit and speakers removed.

I've still to install the GPS aerial, microphone and illumination wire. The £5 aerial adaptor off ebay for the radio was delivered quickly and works perfectly.

The function it has of turning down the volume when reverse is engaged so you can hear the PDC is a great feature that seems to work well. I'm still figiuring out how the menus work and what all the various options are. I'm still undecided if the yellow or orange colour scheme is the best match for the standard illumination.

I plan to finish the install off once the speaker adaptor rings I've ordered from the US arrive although I've still to order some speakers to go with them.
 
The antenna and microphone all have their standard locations in the 996.
The antenna goes just under the cover for the alarm LED in the dash.
The mic in its position to thr right of the clocks.
Apologoes if this is obvious, but it took me some time to discover them.
Also, illlumination pulse from the switches.
 
thetino said:
The antenna and microphone all have their standard locations in the 996.
The antenna goes just under the cover for the alarm LED in the dash.
The mic in its position to thr right of the clocks.
Apologoes if this is obvious, but it took me some time to discover them.
Also, illlumination pulse from the switches.

I knew but someone else looking might not so worth posting up. I've also heard/read the mic doesn't work very well in the OEM location but I'm going to try it as it will be the neatest solution.

I think the lighting in the switches is on the dimmer so I don't want to use that so intend to go from the ashtray light instead.
 

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