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Oil temp- how long to warm up?

R

Robertb

Yas Marina
Joined
1 Sep 2003
Messages
8,406
Hi folks,

A q for you new-fangled 997 owners who've got an oil temperature gauge, sadly omitted from the 996.

How long does it take the oil temp to get to normal operating temperature? Quicker or slower than the water temp?

Thanks

Rob.
 
About 10 miles of driving, or 15 mins driving - long after the water hits normal.
 
Oil temperature is reached slower than the water temp and that is because of the viscosity differences.
The questions about how long is an interesting one because there no single answer. It depends on the following
1) Original temp
2) Type of driving (engine revs, static, moving etc)
3) Weather conditions (if windy and cold then it takes longer)

From my experience water temp is reached with normal driving within 5-10 minutes from cold and external temp of around 10+ (longer if is colder) and oil temp follows within another 5+ minutes

The rule I have is never go more than 3-3.5K revs unless both temp are normal

Theo
 
Thanks folks- I usually recon on over 10 mins before giving it some beans... scary though if folk have been relying on the water temp alone to know if the car is 'warmed up'.
 
what roughly is your oil temp reading on everyday driving? I get a reading of approx 100degrees.
 
Think my oil temp gets to just over 90 but as I'm about to go out and take a mate out for a blast I'll report back.
 
Mine usually gets up to 90 once i've done over 6 miles.

Like others i don't give it any until its around this temperature.
 
Waaaaaaaaaaay slower than the water........as had been said about 10 mins or so sees it at the right temp for me.
 
ok cool, my oil temp goes to about 90 then creeps slowly to just above if i'm belting it out.
have to agree, takes long to heat up.
 
When mine was new, it took about 6 miles also, but now that it's a little older it takes about 10 miles/minutes.
 
Wouldn't it be more reliable to just wait until the oil pressure gauge is at it's minimum at idle? That's how I know mine is warmed fully, at idle sitting between 1.5-1.75, ie below 2... :thumb:
 
What, no oil temp gauge in a 996? That's as important as the speedo for me.

Last night (temp 1.5 deg) I drove for about 6 miles at speeds of 40-60 mph before the oli temp gauge climbed off 60 deg and it got no higher than 80 in another 15 miles of gentle driving. On a higher-speed long run the needle sits at around 90, and no higher.

Oil not warm, engine not revved beyond 3,000.
 
well i must admit, the other day by pure accident i reved it to 5000-6000 and the oil had still not heated up- hit 70mph then suddenly realised and slowed right down. Once parked up, steam was coming from the rads in the front.
Well i'm certainly not doing that again. Have to stay focussed on the oil temp, and resist the temptation.
 
I agree, water way slower than oil. About 10 minutes of normal driving. I must admit for a short time I didn't realise there was oil temp and was giving it the beans as soon as water up to temp. Oops!
 
Hmmm... I think there may be a little mis-understanding about lubrication going on here. If you are using the correct grade of oil in your car it does not need to be 'up to normal' temperature to do its job! The temperature that you are calling normal is actually a sort of 'maximum', beyond which oil coolers have to be employed to keep the oil from boiling and therefore not doing its job.

Synthetic oils are used specifically to protect the engine at very low temperatures: This is important as most damage is done when the vehicle has been standing and therefore, higher oil-ways may be dry.

So, for starting off, the first mile or two is most critical, but once the water is up to temperature, the oil will be completely efficient and it is safe to increase the revs / use more throttle.

The only possible exception to that is if you are using a higher viscosity of oil (to prevent RMS drips perhaps) or if you are not using synthetic oils - designed to operate at low temperatures.

Incidentally, the water temperature is actually more significant in preventing fatigue failures (i.e. cracked cylinder walls / heads). Extreme heat in the bores from full bore acceleration / high revs, with cold water cooling the cylinder walls and heads, may cause thermodynamic fatigue eventually.
 
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