We usually talk about future proofing a 997's engine. Over and above getting a low temp thermostat (check), having an 06 MY IMS (check), frequently changing oil and using the right thickness (check) and being gentle with a cold engine (check), there isn't much more I can do (apart from a rebuild). Mine was 'scoped at purchase and had the all clear – so I'm happy.
Let's talk about structural bodywork then.
Given how many rusted and corroded 911s I saw before I bought mine, I thought it prudent to have a look underneath to see how things looked.
Off to Classic Heroes it went for an inspection on the ramp.
I'm happy to say that things looked very good indeed, but that didn't mean it was perfect. Small areas of surface corrosion were starting to form in places such as the front and rear chassis legs, in between the wheel arches and wheel housings and at some of the spot welds, etc.
I was advised that this was nothing to worry about, but that if left untreated could become a problem in just a few years time.
Thus, the plan was to remove the plastic, clean everything up underneath and address the rusty bits with chemical rust neutraliser, bring the parts that needed to back to bare metal and treat accordingly, apply anti stone chip product, treat with clear cavity wax and treat all alloy suspension components, nuts and bold with Tectyl ML.
Below are some pictures.
There's also a video walkthrough right here: https://vimeo.com/385281858
All in all I'm glad I had it done. It's what DeMort calls the 'waxoil service' ;-)
I'm also really happy with the job Classic Heroes did https://www.classicheroes.co.uk/
Sometimes you have to see your fair share of ***** cars to pledge that your own will never, ever look like that.
Let's talk about structural bodywork then.
Given how many rusted and corroded 911s I saw before I bought mine, I thought it prudent to have a look underneath to see how things looked.
Off to Classic Heroes it went for an inspection on the ramp.
I'm happy to say that things looked very good indeed, but that didn't mean it was perfect. Small areas of surface corrosion were starting to form in places such as the front and rear chassis legs, in between the wheel arches and wheel housings and at some of the spot welds, etc.
I was advised that this was nothing to worry about, but that if left untreated could become a problem in just a few years time.
Thus, the plan was to remove the plastic, clean everything up underneath and address the rusty bits with chemical rust neutraliser, bring the parts that needed to back to bare metal and treat accordingly, apply anti stone chip product, treat with clear cavity wax and treat all alloy suspension components, nuts and bold with Tectyl ML.
Below are some pictures.
There's also a video walkthrough right here: https://vimeo.com/385281858
All in all I'm glad I had it done. It's what DeMort calls the 'waxoil service' ;-)
I'm also really happy with the job Classic Heroes did https://www.classicheroes.co.uk/
Sometimes you have to see your fair share of ***** cars to pledge that your own will never, ever look like that.
