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Door Hinge renewal

Cameltoe & Heel

Well-known member
Joined
26 Jan 2009
Messages
1,400
ahoy ahoy Happy New Year all........

Thought I'd post up what I'd been doing as part of my winter maintenance.

I noticed that the drivers door has some play, slight up and down movement with the door slightly open, also I wasn't 100% happy with the fit. I'd already bought new door pins and shims back in spring but decided to defer fitting until winter.

So I cracked on over the Xmas period, you can see new shims in foreground and old ones in the background with one of the old pins, the shims are brass and pretty soft, they were worn as was the pin to a lesser extent.

uBcDsvY.jpg


You can see a new shim inserted, there's four per door, two per hinge, one top one bottom, removing old ones was easy enough with a punch, inserting new ones was easy too.

RuHIXnc.jpg


However installing pins afterwards wasn't, and guess why?, the shims are supplied oversized.

qY0RjK7.jpg


Turns out they require reaming out to 8mm, so onto Amazon for bits.

vzk4Rch.jpg


Using these proved a real pain, access to the bottom hinge is easy enough so can use a drill, the top hinge was not straight forward and needed me to make use of my ratchet and extensions and a UJ. Some huffing and puffing later I git it through and both hinges reamed out to 8mm, pins now inserted perfectly, cleaned and greased the up ready for hanging.

IMyUp5v.jpg


I've now managed to fit the door and all seems well, a few more adjustments on the window and I should be done.

Onto the next one on the list......

Trev
 
Nice work as always Trev :thumb:

Happy New Year.

ATB :)
 
Thanks mate :)

Oh and BTW whilst I was setting my window height the bloody window regulator decided to sheer a few teeth to make a ruddy horrible knocking noise so just ordered a replacement from eBay.......

Could have been worse I guess, it could have done it after I'd rebuilt the door up :frustrated:

Anyhow........these damn cars you fix one issue and create another ffs

LGlJrUO.jpg


Trev
 
So what's the purpose of the shims being oversized I wonder.
 
Hi

You mean that the shims are sold undersize, and you ream to size, in this case 8mm?

I hope that's not the case, as I quite fancy replacing mine having read your post.

My car is a high miler so probably need it.

Berni
 
berni29 said:
Hi

You mean that the shims are sold undersize, and you ream to size, in this case 8mm?

I hope that's not the case, as I quite fancy replacing mine having read your post.

My car is a high miler so probably need it.

Berni

Hi Berni, oversize/undersize depends how you look at :), so yeh essentially there's too much material to get the door pin through so has to be removed with a 8mm ream bit, it could be because the hinge may not hold the shims in perfect alignment so the drilling will help achieve this.

Yes if you car is high mileage then yes it's likely to have play in the drivers door hinges, just open the door slightly and lift it. Mine has 104k, the passenger side is ok so I'm likely to be leaving that one :).

Trev
 
Hi

That seems a little strange. If it is an alignment issue then once fitted they would need to be line bored with both in situ like an engine block to maintain the alignment. If they are too small for the pin then are undersize :). If are too big for the mounting hole then are oversize, I think that is the way it works.

I will have to investigate. And yes will check the play in mine. I guess you do not have any play now on the drivers door?

Thanks!

Berni
 
Berni, yes the two shims have to be in situ and you drive the remaining bit through both shims so that they're perfectly aligned.

Now no play at all in the drivers door.

I've also now replaced the window regulator with the second hand eBay item which works perfectly.

Trev
 
Trev,

Are you sure you had to reem out to 8mm?

I sort of did this job a year or so ago. With the door in situ. The bottom pins went through the shim (aka bush). Extreemly difficult, but did it. The top hinge was more difficult and as I snapped a modified G-clamp I have had to leave the top pin 3/4 of the way in, but again the pin went through the lower shims/bushes. Pins Bushes were genuine Porsche.

Modifying a stronger G-clamp to finish it off at some point when I can face the job.

I probably said in my other post that I did the job as going over bumps I noticed a knocking and I thought it was suspension related, but it turned out to be the door moving on the slack bushes.
 

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Good thread. Great little project.
Definitely worth reaming them out for that perfect fit. :thumb:

It's funny now I've seen this, I remember viewing one or two air-cooled cars over the years that had their hinge pins half sticking out.
They must have been done by folk who lacked that bit of finesse and a reamer. :wink:


Pietrzj comments 'Are you sure you had to ream out the bushes?" ...
Followed by a photo of a snapped G clamp....
Followed by 'I've had to leave one pin only 3/4 of the way in.

:floor:

I like your style Pietrzj. I like your style. :thumb:
 
I'm a little confused, is it possible to replace the bushes and pins (including reaming to size) without removing the door?
 
So you definitely have to take the door off or how could you put the new shims into the hinge :dont know:

Yes, I was at the same point trying to get a new door pin through a new shim (without reaming) and no chance, it would go so far and stop completely, even with force, decided to google at that point and up it came, a need to ream the new shims to make them fit.

The pins are always sat slightly proud anyway, they don't drive in all the way, about 8-10mm.

Still crying laughing at the broken G clamp btw :floor:

Trev
 
Cameltoe & Heel said:
So you definitely have to take the door off or how could you put the new shims into the hinge :dont know:

Reading pietrzj's post he indicates bushes/pins were replaced in situ. I wondered if the door could be supported fully open while carrying out the replacement.
 
I see what you're saying here but if the door is off at both hinge points then isn't by virtue off the car?. If you did this you would need to remove the door arrester pin and it would leave the electrical rubber hose attached to the door. You would need to hold it vertically very close to the car and work on it from there.

Trev
 
I created a wooden fram for my door so I could do it without undoing the bolts. The frame supported the door so I could remove the pins and replace them and the sleeves. I only had a few inches to play around in as a result. But it meant I could do it solo.

I will see if I can dig out some photos.
 

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