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dc2100k
Newbie


Joined: 28 Oct 2019
Posts: 48



PostPosted: Sat Nov 16, 2019 6:50 pm    Post subject: Removing Water Pump from Above Reply with quote

I am readying myself to remove the water pump and thermostat from my car and now have the replacement parts on hand. I have removed the airbox, belt and deflection pulleys, as well as the rear bumper and both rear silencers so there is reasonably easy access to the pump from above and below. I am also just about to replace my engine mounts and have been going around applying penetrating oil for the last week. My primary question is will it be possible to remove the pump from above if I take out the engine mounts at the same time?

EDIT: YES the engine carrier will move away at the top enough to get the old pump out and the new pump in. I have removed both mounts and all three pulleys, and backed off the upper two engine carrier bolts to the end of the stub.

Last edited by dc2100k on Fri Nov 22, 2019 10:47 am; edited 1 time in total
 
  
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deMort
Dijon


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 7593
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Sat Nov 16, 2019 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm pretty sure you cant remove it from above but to be honest i've never attempted it .. underneath and move back the engine carrier bracket is how i do it .

I don't do anything to the exhaust .. just loosen the carrier bolts/ nuts and lever it back a bit .
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She's not going until july 2020 though .



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Nightrain QDUN4
Trainee


Joined: 21 Nov 2016
Posts: 79
Location: Aberdeenshire


PostPosted: Sat Nov 16, 2019 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’m also sure you can’t but didn’t bother trying when I did mine last winter.

As previously mentioned you can move the engine carrier back however, I decided to cut off the old bolts and replace with new. Much easier access tbh when fitting the new pump etc.

Below is the link to the jobs showing water pump, mounts and pulleys.

http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=131249
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2004 C4S
 
  
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dc2100k
Newbie


Joined: 28 Oct 2019
Posts: 48



PostPosted: Sat Nov 16, 2019 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi demort, thanks for that. Do you mean you just loosen the two engine carrier bolts and don’t undo the cat brackets or the plate that goes between the carrier and cats? Then just pry it back a couple of cm for access.

Nightrain, thanks for that really useful thread. Your car looks way too clean underneath! Btw, when you changed your pulleys did you get the 996 parts as I’ve got the correct replacements as per the Porsche part numbers but they are the plastic 997 type pulleys. Did you use heat to get the tensioner pulley off? I’ve heard the red threadlock used on these needs some heat to be taken off with hand tools.
 
  
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Nightrain QDUN4
Trainee


Joined: 21 Nov 2016
Posts: 79
Location: Aberdeenshire


PostPosted: Sat Nov 16, 2019 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi DC,

Clean underneath lol, thats exactly what the Porsche dealer says when it goes for a service and they find nothing additional they can charge me for.

The pulleys I ordered are metal from d911, plastic was available but I opted for the original.
Part numbers:
Drive belt deflection roller 99610211958
Tensioner roller 99610211757
Other deflection roller 99610211856

The other option is to just change the bearings in the original ones which is cheaper if you can access a bench press. The tensioner pulley came off fine with no heat needed on mine.
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deMort
Dijon


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 7593
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2019 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dc2100k wrote:
Hi demort, thanks for that. Do you mean you just loosen the two engine carrier bolts and don’t undo the cat brackets or the plate that goes between the carrier and cats? Then just pry it back a couple of cm for access.



I just watched a video and they do seem to remove rather a lot .. cat clamp i would only move if it was really in the way though .. loosen the engine brace bracket bolts and lever it back a bit is all i tend to do ..

For you then remove parts as needed to make it an easier job .. no point struggling as your not as time conscious as i am .. i think we get about 1.5 hrs to change out a pump .

Btw .. for the cat bracket to brace bar .. an angle grinder and cut each bit then lever it off .. a new one can be bent and pushed over the pipe if needed .
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My Daughter's Crowdfunding has hit the target .

Thank you all so Very much .

She's not going until july 2020 though .



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Now At An Indy.
 
  
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dc2100k
Newbie


Joined: 28 Oct 2019
Posts: 48



PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2019 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nightrain, just reading through your excellent thread again - 'as we all know 1 job always turns into 10 jobs as I then realised that the pulleys felt worn so decided to change the lot while I’m here and now everything on the back end is off and access clear I might as well add the spark plugs to my ever growing list!'

This is exactly where I am now! I have removed the exhausts - so may as well do the coil packs, may as well do the plugs. Removed the water pump so may as well do the stat, the pulleys, the belt, the coolant...

Next I'll be buying a compressor and then vacuum pump just to fill the coolant! Where does it end?

Demort, thanks for your reply. I'm waiting for an 15mm spanner to arrive to take off the carrier bolts and I'll try to get the pump out without disturbing the cat brackets or fixings. In the meantime I've removed the pump and thermostat bolts and it appears the pump impeller is undamaged. Any tips for removing the rusted jubilee clip from the thermostat coolant pipe without destroying the hose? so many rusty fixings!!! I will need to get a new jubilee clip for the pump and the stat, who makes reasonable quality items?

Also - threadlock vs. copaslip. Is there a guide as to which to use in each situation? Is it metal/different metal, or heat cycling, or fastener tension that dictates use?
 
  
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Shalmaneser
Newbie


Joined: 11 Nov 2019
Posts: 16



PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2019 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nightrain QDUN4 wrote:
Hi DC,

Clean underneath lol, thats exactly what the Porsche dealer says when it goes for a service and they find nothing additional they can charge me for.

The pulleys I ordered are metal from d911, plastic was available but I opted for the original.
Part numbers:
Drive belt deflection roller 99610211958
Tensioner roller 99610211757
Other deflection roller 99610211856

The other option is to just change the bearings in the original ones which is cheaper if you can access a bench press. The tensioner pulley came off fine with no heat needed on mine.


Hi, I did the waterpump on my newly acquired 3.4 996 over weekend and noticed my idlers were a little worn. Do you know where I can find the correct bearings for the idlers? I've got access to a press so might as well make use of it.
 
  
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dc2100k
Newbie


Joined: 28 Oct 2019
Posts: 48



PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2019 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a quick look for the bearings prior to ordering the new pulleys and the consensus I saw online was that the replacement bearings tend to only last a few years. I figured it was better just to bite the bullet and go with the new parts, although they are pretty easy to replace if you do need to.
 
  
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ian_alex
Monza


Joined: 25 May 2015
Posts: 150



PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2019 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I fitted replacement bearings in my idler rollers (metal) in 2015 and no problems 10K + miles later. Simple to replace with suitable size drifts and a decent vice.
Got the replacements from "Simply Bearings" online, part no 3202-2RS-EU Dimensions 15x35x15.9mm
Cost then was £37.34 delivered, this was then considerably less than replacing the complete assembly.
 
  
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deMort
Dijon


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 7593
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2019 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seized jubilee clips and i use a ratchet/ socket rather than a screwdriver .. spray some lubrication on it and just work it backwards and forwards until it snaps / falls apart or comes undone .
_________________
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My Daughter's Crowdfunding has hit the target .

Thank you all so Very much .

She's not going until july 2020 though .



Mechanic

7pm - 9pm

Now At An Indy.
 
  
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dc2100k
Newbie


Joined: 28 Oct 2019
Posts: 48



PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2019 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Demort.

Nightrain you will no doubt be amused to hear that my Pierburg water pump gasket looks exactly like yours! What terrible packaging. Thanks to your experience I have gained a trip to the OPC for a new gasket and saved having to fit the pump a second time!

I owe you both a beer if you're ever in Edinburgh.
 
  
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maldren
Suzuka


Joined: 07 Oct 2016
Posts: 1198



PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dc2100k wrote:
Also - threadlock vs. copaslip. Is there a guide as to which to use in each situation? Is it metal/different metal, or heat cycling, or fastener tension that dictates use?


Threadlock (or locking threads) are used where the manufacturer decides (or finds during testing) that nuts/bolts may come loose due to vibration, not sure about heating/cooling as I can't think of an example.

Copper or Ally based greases are used where nuts/bolts are likely to seize with corrosion. Not surprisingly therefore, manufacturers rarely use them as they are making cars for the first time buyer. As a rule, use ally grease on aluminium, copper based greases actually promote sacrificial corrosion there; that's why Porsche recommend Ally based grease for wheel nuts. Use copper based grease on steel and iron interfaces.

On top of this, there are also thread seals where threads go through water or oil interfaces.
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Mike
2003 996.2 C2 Coupe Arctic Silver
 
  
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Shalmaneser
Newbie


Joined: 11 Nov 2019
Posts: 16



PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ian_alex wrote:
I fitted replacement bearings in my idler rollers (metal) in 2015 and no problems 10K + miles later. Simple to replace with suitable size drifts and a decent vice.
Got the replacements from "Simply Bearings" online, part no 3202-2RS-EU Dimensions 15x35x15.9mm
Cost then was £37.34 delivered, this was then considerably less than replacing the complete assembly.


That's very kind, thanks for the info. I'll do a diy and post it here if people are interested. It's always bugged me that replacing idlers invariably involves throwing the whole unit away when it's only the bearing that's actually worn.
 
  
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dc2100k
Newbie


Joined: 28 Oct 2019
Posts: 48



PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maldren, thats's exactly the information I need. So I need an ally grease for fixings into the engine block - EDIT: OPTIMOLY TA is what's required. I'll use blue threadlock on the engine mount fixings and pulleys.
 
  
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maldren
Suzuka


Joined: 07 Oct 2016
Posts: 1198



PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a generic anti seize ally grease but I think OPTIMOLY is the brand that Porsche recommend.
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Mike
2003 996.2 C2 Coupe Arctic Silver
 
  
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Rhodris-dad
Hockenheim


Joined: 28 Nov 2013
Posts: 728
Location: RHYL

2015 Porsche 991 Carrera 4 GTS

PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like with all the good advice, you've got the job nailed Thumb

Just one thing nobody has mentioned.......don't buy an aftermarket pump like I did!!!

It only lasted 12 months Wall

Original Porsche pump is much more expensive but don't do it nooo
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2015 991.1 C4GTS PDK
2010 997 C4S PDK sold
2003 996 C2 Tip sold
 
  
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dc2100k
Newbie


Joined: 28 Oct 2019
Posts: 48



PostPosted: Fri Nov 22, 2019 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Updated original post.
 
  
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