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Trunk wont open
- Thread starter MR997
- Start date
similar to 996
Https://youtu.be/q6oH87tRCXQ
Https://youtu.be/q6oH87tRCXQ
Ok, the trunk is open. Thanks James, I found the short cable behind the lower front left inner liner.
The battery reads 12.2v so i,m suspecting the solenoid/switch or fuse. the fuse schematic doesn't show a fuse for the solenoid though?
I've also put the battery charger on just to top the battery up.
How can I test the solenoid?
The battery reads 12.2v so i,m suspecting the solenoid/switch or fuse. the fuse schematic doesn't show a fuse for the solenoid though?
I've also put the battery charger on just to top the battery up.
How can I test the solenoid?
Switch failure is pretty common but it will still open on the key fob ... which this doesn't .
Solenoid will i expect be a 12 volt operation so you could unplug the solenoid and put 12 volts to it direct to see if it works .
You could also put a meter onto the 2 wires going to it , operate the switch and see if you get 12 volts .
From what i can see then its a permanent earth with the front end control unit supplying the 12 volts .. possible the earth is missing so the brown wire with a meter on ohms should give approx 1 ohm or less .
Solenoid failure is very rare .. but it is possible .
It's also possible some sort of fault code has been logged and the system wont work until its been cleared .
Solenoid will i expect be a 12 volt operation so you could unplug the solenoid and put 12 volts to it direct to see if it works .
You could also put a meter onto the 2 wires going to it , operate the switch and see if you get 12 volts .
From what i can see then its a permanent earth with the front end control unit supplying the 12 volts .. possible the earth is missing so the brown wire with a meter on ohms should give approx 1 ohm or less .
Solenoid failure is very rare .. but it is possible .
It's also possible some sort of fault code has been logged and the system wont work until its been cleared .
And testing the connector on the solenoid shows continuity so I'm assuming the solenoid coil is ok?
Operating the release switch whilst testing voltage on the connector does not show any interuption in the 12volt supply and I've checked the 10amp fuse is good for the forward control unit.
Operating the release switch whilst testing voltage on the connector does not show any interuption in the 12volt supply and I've checked the 10amp fuse is good for the forward control unit.
Brown wire would be the earth .. brown yellow wire is not what i have on my diagram .. but mind you that might not be accurate .. USA spec diagram .
Either way on one wires you should have 12 volts , switch actuated and an earth on the other .. if you have that the the solenoid is dead .
Its possible my diagram is different and it's a switched earth and not voltage .. either way .. you should have a 12 volt feed / earth when a voltmeter is connected into the wiring plug and the switch operated .. if you have this then the solenoid is dead .. or we are getting into high resistance of a wire .
Either way on one wires you should have 12 volts , switch actuated and an earth on the other .. if you have that the the solenoid is dead .
Its possible my diagram is different and it's a switched earth and not voltage .. either way .. you should have a 12 volt feed / earth when a voltmeter is connected into the wiring plug and the switch operated .. if you have this then the solenoid is dead .. or we are getting into high resistance of a wire .
MR997 said:
LOL .. ok i'm off now .. i'm tired .. just see if a voltmeter when connected to the 2 wires that go to the solenoid have a 12 volt reading on your meter when you activate the switch .. if so then the solenoid has died , if not then we need to back track a bit
Don't shut your bonnet lid !!!
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