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Roro
Long Beach


Joined: 01 Oct 2010
Posts: 6399



PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2019 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RS29’s are known for being noisy when used as road pads, they need quite rough treatment to minimise squeakiness. The gentle type of braking you do in road driving tends to “polish” these pads which leads to the noise. Try doing an Italian tune up or better still a trackday, the frequent hard stops should help decontaminate the pad surfaces and reduce noise. Until of course you go back to using them on road again and the fun starts all over... Grin
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Marky911
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Joined: 04 Jun 2009
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2019 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Mark, good to hear from a fellow sufferer. Grin
Most of the time I’m like you and think exactly that “because race car”, but when I’m not in the mood and particularly in towns when you have folk turning around to see what’s making all the noise, it’s gets annoying pretty quickly.
Tremendous brakes though. Cool

Hi Roro, good summary and that’s exactly what I’d been led to believe.
Like I say I’ll use them until this autumn when the car comes off the road and I’ll probably throw them in my spares box incase I want to fit them for a trackday.
I have just added some self adhesive anti squeal material to the backs of them. That’s everything I could try, erm, tried now. Very Happy

Last edited by Marky911 on Thu Jul 18, 2019 2:53 am; edited 1 time in total
 
  
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Y2K
Montreal


Joined: 08 Mar 2016
Posts: 536
Location: Hampshire


PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2019 12:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marky911 wrote:



Hmmmmmmmmmm, tasty 🍽 We need to try yours and then mine back to back to compare Thumb

My brakes are the same as yours and they don’t squeal much. Although recent more gentle use has made them squeal a bit.
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Marky911
Magny-Cours


Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 2639



PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2019 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi mate, funny you should post. I’ve pre-written my next instalment and I’ve actually said in there that we’ll be due a catch up at some point. From your point it’s to compare suspension. From mine it’s the tickover. Wink
We may make that September trip but it’s probably more no than yes at the moment due to my big trip.
There’s also a trackday on at Croft in September, but I don’t have track insurance this year so I may leave it. I’ll keep you posted.
Either way we’ll sort something because after September we’ll be into winter before you know it. Thumb
 
  
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Marky911
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2019 1:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, so last week it was service time. The short version is all is well.

I will use this post though to cover a funny thing that had been bothering me since I bought the car. It’s a very minor issue but I wanted to look into it a bit more.

Basically when you start the car from cold it fires up and idles lovely, at about 1000 rpm or whatever. After 30 seconds to a minute the fast idle then cuts off (as it’s supposed to) and the revs drop to a pretty stable 700 rpm.
However imagine you have the constant tone of the exhaust like any other car. That’s fine, but as well as that you get these funny little pop-pops every second or two. No pattern to them and not in time with the engine but just a little unevenness, almost like small misfires.
Now I mentioned this when I viewed it and was told “It goes through the workshops, blah blah”.
Pre collection I asked if they’d found anything and was told “No misfire present, it’s the same as the other GT3s we’ve known”.

So anyway I got it home and was obviously chuffed to bits with it. It pulls like a train and the performance difference between it and my old C2 is greater than I expected.
The little pops were bugging me though as the new car buzz wore off. It has the Cargraphic exhaust which I know exaggerates them and a Parr remap, which I was starting to question. Could it be that?
Everyone I knew said “Just drive the bloody thing”, but I’m a fanny and I wanted to know the motor was sound and safe as it has seen very little use with the last owner.

The only guy I’d trust to look into that would be Wayne Schofield of Chip Wizards. He needs no introduction on here as he’s simply the best in the business. I met him when I had my Mk1 GT3 as he used to race in my mates Championship, but I never ended up getting the Mk1 done.
Anyway we all know how hard he is to get hold of as he works long hours and has his head in his work.
As luck would have it though Craig had a slot booked for his C2, so we decided we’d head down in two cars and see if he’d have time to look at mine too.
(funny story about Craig’s booking. He basically had a two year wait) Very Happy

Anyway, the week before our booking we decided to eliminate any simple things so we fitted new spark plugs (due in my service soon anyway) and fitted a “known to be good” set of coilpacks Craig had.




All 6 of the old plugs looked perfect on removal, a nice light brown. We thought we might have found one that was different, signalling a firing problem, but we didn’t.
We fitted the new ones and there was no difference after starting it up, so it was off to Wayne’s as planned.

We went down one Sunday night and stopped over so we were at Waynes first thing Monday morning.
We felt a bit cheeky rocking up in two cars but we’d had no joy getting hold of him on the phone to ask.
Wayne had no issues with looking at mine though as I explained it was new to me and I had a 3500 mile trip planned.
(Ignore the mess. Wayne had just moved from the unit next door).




Wayne started by going through all of the standard systems first.




Everything was functioning perfectly though, every sensor, solenoid etc.
So next he removed my ECU and took it into the office to learn more about the map. Most remaps have a “read protect” built in to stop other people accessing them.
However, Wayne showed us that by jumping certain pins on the chip you can gain access.

Wayne also said that Parr won’t be doing their own mapping and it would just be a downloaded map. Sure enough it was - Superchips.
Again though it all looked fine.
Only one thing stood out as being less than optimum and again Wayne had already warned us of this. For some reason Superchips program in a load of ignition advance at idle. Mine wasn’t the worst he’d seen at about 4.5 degrees but he said it didn’t need that. So he cut and pasted that section of map from a known good map (actually Mikes from S&C) and laid that over instead.

He said it may or not sort my little pops.
It didn’t.

So that was that basically. Wayne had done all he could and proven that all the electronics on the car were spot on.
He said the next step would be to get a leak down test done as a precaution, to check the actual health of the engine internals and valve gear, incase someone had buzzed it (over-rev’d it) and clipped a valve or something like that.
We didn’t think it would be that, as the lumpy idle isn’t that heavy and has no pattern to it. Obviously bent valve noise runs in time with the engine.
Also my Rev range history was great and the car runs perfectly everywhere other than at warm idle.

Wayne said if the leak-down test came back good then it obviously couldn’t be too much to worry about. In fact the only other thing he could think of was that it may be a fuel injector with a less than perfect spray pattern at idle, when it’s not under much pressure. Again, all plugs being the same colour meant not much else untoward could be going on.

With that, we headed home. We had a good day at Chip Wizards. Very informative.
I would like to add that booking is now much easier as Wayne has just rolled out online booking. You have to put your money where your mouth is and pay a bit upfront though, as Wayne gets all sorts of time wasters, from no-shows to cars that are simply not in a fit state to go on the rollers. Understandably he needs to separate the wheat from the chaff.
For us genuine customers though it means we can book a slot much easier. Just make sure you’ve eliminated as much as you can yourself if something isn’t right and make sure your car is fit for the rollers. Thumb

Back to mine then and I already had the car booked in with my Indy for a major service and full going over, so we added a leak down test to the list.
Trouble was I had a 6 week wait after Wayne’s until my service date and in that time, despite all the evidence suggesting the engine would be fine, I managed to convince myself the engine was kaputt. Grin
Not a fun few weeks wait. Thoughts of having bought a very expensive paperweight entered my head etc. Bloody cars! Why do we bother eh?? Very Happy

So as I’ve said the car went for it’s service (which I’ll cover next time) and leak-down test a couple of weeks ago, with Jamie at Nelson Porsche Stockton. My mate and Indy for over 15 years now. Blimey.

He was the bearer of good news anyway. The engine is in rude health with barely 5% losses in each cylinder and almost identical across the board.




Phew! Quite a relief. Logically I knew it would be but sometimes the more you read about something online, the more you think you’re doomed. That goes for health as well as cars eh. Wink

Craig sent me this though and reckons this is the real reading. Jamie just didn’t want to tell me. Grin




So what now? Probably nothing.
I may stick a set of injectors in at some point but again everything you can check is fine and all the old plugs were perfect, so am I chasing a problem that isn’t there? I welcome any input from 996 Mk2 owners. I need to meet up with me ole mate YK off of here and compare cars.

I also stumbled across this thread specifically about 996 Mk2s where a few people said the idle should be smooth, but equally a good few said theirs was lumpy/had a missing feel to it.
This was way back in 2008 when the cars were only 3-5 years old, so I don’t believe that all the lumpy cars were faulty without their owners knowing it.

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=48&t=489363


Just to finish this part, Craig’s day at Wayne’s was even less fruitful than mine, but I’ll let him cover that in his thread.
There’s always something. Wink

Next time I’ll cover the service and the whole heap of work I’m half way through at the moment. With my trip drawing ever closer I did not want the car pulled to bits so much at this point. I’m gonna have no time to get any miles on it beforehand now. Surprised

Anyway, thanks for reading. Back to more picture based posts soon I hope. Thumb

Last edited by Marky911 on Tue Jul 23, 2019 10:30 pm; edited 1 time in total
 
  
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The return of Marty Wild
Kyalami


Joined: 04 Nov 2016
Posts: 1839



PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2019 4:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forgot how good this thread was Thumb
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Marky911
Magny-Cours


Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 2639



PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2019 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Marty. I’m just rattling through the mundane stuff I’ve been upto since buying, but it’s all info, some of which may help someone if they ever stumble upon it. Wink


I’ll quickly cover the service work then. I usually gather all my parts beforehand but I didn’t want to waste money on expensive oil until we had the leak-down results, just incase.
This meant that once Jamie gave me the good news it was a mad dash to order what we needed and have it delivered straight to his place, hence no pics.

The list of works was this -

Leak down test.
Major service inc. all filters, fuel, oil and pollen. BMC panel replacement air filter fitted, so air filter not required.
Engine oil - 10w60 Millers Motorsport.
Gearbox oil change - Motul Gear 300.
Both of the above recommended by GT3 specialists and Opie oils.
Investigate suspension creak and free off all bolts/adjusters for future alignment.
Intermittent wipers in-op.
Check auxiliary belt pulley bearings for play.

The above is self explanatory really.
All the suspension bolts cracked off no problem so the car can be booked in for an alignment soon and there’ll hopefully be no issues on the day.

The creaking was actually stones that had been flicked onto a ledge of the subframe right next to the anti roll bar. Every time the bar twists it tries to crush the stones and sounds awful. Crap design actually.
Easy fix though. Flick the stones out.
Buckle up for some high octane footage. Grin

https://youtu.be/xrSJPS7pV8g


Auxiliary belt pulley bearings were all fine.

Intermittent wiper issue is usually due to the switch/dial or the relay. It was the latter in my case. Another easy fix.




In addition to the above work Jamie also found the clutch pedal switch to be faulty so fitted a new one of those.
More importantly he found that my alternator wasn’t charging properly.
This was at tick-over with everything switched on -




This was at 2000rpm with nothing switched on -




Well surprisingly the warranty I got with the car, which I presumed wouldn’t be worth the paper it’s written on, actually coughed up for a new Bosch alternator and fitting worth £350. Result.
If they hadn’t I’d just have had the original one refurbed but now I’ve a nice new shiny one on there.




I still wouldn’t want to rely on the warranty for any in-depth claim but I may be wrong.
In fact Jamie was going to try for the wiper relay too but I said just concentrate on the alternator.

There was no brake fluid change required as that was last done in October of last year by Autostore. Castrol SRF used throughout the cars life.




Two final things found.
Firstly a corroded power steering pipe crimp -




Removed and a jubilee clip fitted -




Then lastly this -




Oh *****. Leaky condenser.
My air-con was nice and cold but a bit whiffy so I’d already purchased a Groupon voucher for an ATS air-con re-gas.
A bit more work would now be required before I could go for that.
Me and Craig are sorting that but we’ve had a ‘mare with some of it and the car has been off the road for almost 3 weeks now as we only work on it on a Saturday and each of the last two Saturdays something has come up with parts etc.

I’ll cover the whole job next time. Suffice to say, things have snowballed. frustrated

Oh just before I finish, there were 2 advisories from the service. The first being the air-con condenser leaking and the second was the high tone horn not working - Now replaced with a decent used one.

On the plus said Jamie said the car is spot on with no horror stories and very genuine and original. Particularly underneath there no weeps, leaks or bodges to anything. So I should hope so really, as it has only covered 44k miles. Wink

As ever, thanks for reading. Thumb
 
  
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917k
Magny-Cours


Joined: 02 Jun 2003
Posts: 2558
Location: Bromley, kent

2011 Porsche Cayman 987

PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2019 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pleased it looks like being a good one for you

Thread always makes fascinating reading 👍
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kingston
Suzuka


Joined: 09 Jun 2010
Posts: 1002



PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2019 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How comes you switched to 10W-60 oil?

I take it you know that the rads on ebay are the same as OEM and half the price etc.
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Marky911
Magny-Cours


Joined: 04 Jun 2009
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2019 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi 917, thanks for the comments. Yes I can get stuck in now I know it’s AOK. Wink
How’s the R going? Serving you well I hope. Thumb

Hi Kingston. I’ve gone for 10w60 as that’s what all the GT3 specialists put in and it is all my car has run on in recent years apart from the water thin Mobil rubbish that Autostore had put in.

The rads on EBay are decent copies whilst not identical. OE quality are Behr/Hella which are available for £160 a pair. I went with ones from my local rad place, which cost about £90.
I bought my condensers off eBay and just received my refund today as they were shocking quality. I ended up getting replacements from the same Rad place up here too. A little bit more expensive but I should have just done that in the first place.
 
  
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Slippydiff
Nürburgring


Joined: 22 Nov 2007
Posts: 406



PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2019 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marky911 wrote:
Hi Mark, good to hear from a fellow sufferer. Grin
Most of the time I’m like you and think exactly that “because race car”, but when I’m not in the mood and particularly in towns when you have folk turning around to see what’s making all the noise, it’s gets annoying pretty quickly.
Tremendous brakes though. Cool

Hi Roro, good summary and that’s exactly what I’d been led to believe.
Like I say I’ll use them until this autumn when the car comes off the road and I’ll probably throw them in my spares box incase I want to fit them for a trackday.
I have just added some self adhesive anti squeal material to the backs of them. That’s everything I could try, erm, tried now. Very Happy


Been there, tried that Mark. Waste of time (I even had the circular mass dampers machined up from bar section, then drilled and tapped so I could attach them to the pad backplates like the OE pads) Guess what ? That was a waste of time too ....

All documented here :

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=48&t=447322

Long and short, in my case the rears were the culprits, using the car on the road just wasn't generating sufficient heat to bed/cure them properly and thus prevent them glazing up under gentle use. In the end I pulled them out and went to stock 996 Turbo front Textar pads (they're the same pad pattern as GT3 rears !!)

I've got as set here that have done less than 500 miles here. They're pretty much as new (circa 10-12mm pad material depth) yours for £35 if you want them ? I'd run them with the proper spider stickies that clip into the end of the pistons and the front face sticks to antisqueal backing on the pad backplate (just be aware the stickies are £10 a pop) and you'll need 8 of them. They'll be whisper quiet though, and have all the performance you need for road use.

FWIW I had the same issue on my E46 M3 CSL when I tried the RS29's in the AP rear calipers. This time I didn't mess about trying to stop them from squealing, I pulled them and fitted Ferodo DS2500's instead ...
 
  
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Marky911
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Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 2639



PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2019 3:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Henry, more great info, as ever. That’s a bit of a journey you went on with that GT2 then. I hadn’t seen that thread.
There mustn’t be an issue on these cars you haven’t experienced, which probably isn’t as fun for you as it is useful for us, but the info is excellent. Very Happy

Yes I expected that to be the case with the sticky backing stuff. It was actually comments from you on another old P’heads thread that taught me all about the issues being with the pad material rather than the usual vibration side of things. Thumb
For the sake of a couple of quid I just thought I’d do it anyway. The pads are all back in now and I’ll leave it like that until winter, so I’ll bear those pads you have in mind and have a think about what I’m doing.
My callipers need a refurb to be mint as they have a few touched up dink’s from wheel swaps etc.
I may just go DS2500 all round, or as you say Textar in rears as they’ll be fine.
It’s annoying that the RS29s do what they do, but obviously they’ve a certain operating window they’re very good in and they suffer if not kept in it.

Anyway like I say I’ll have a think and get in touch. If you’ve sold them by then, no problem.
Main priorities for the next two weeks are rads/condensers/coolant sorted, re-gas, K-nuts on lower arms (thanks again for that info) and then alignment.

After that I’m leaving well alone until the car comes off the road for winter. Very Happy

I hope all is good where you are. Catch up soon. Thumb

Last edited by Marky911 on Fri Jul 19, 2019 4:22 pm; edited 1 time in total
 
  
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917k
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Joined: 02 Jun 2003
Posts: 2558
Location: Bromley, kent

2011 Porsche Cayman 987

PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2019 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marky911 wrote:
Hi 917, thanks for the comments. Yes I can get stuck in now I know it’s AOK. Wink
How’s the R going? Serving you well I hope. Thumb

.

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All good so far, first track day at Bedford last week. Car is awesome 😁
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Marky911
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Joined: 04 Jun 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2019 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice. Cool
Good to see it getting put to good use. thumbsup


A couple of long posts now to try and get up to date for the weekend and more work.
Air-con condensers.
Well I didn’t think I’d be doing this job again so soon after the C2. Grin

So what’s been the fuss with the air-con condenser?
Well, see below.
I got the car home from Jamie’s and considered doing the full job as I had with my C2, so rads, brackets etc.
I decided though that I didn’t want it all ripped to bits, with the coolant system to burp etc so close to my trip, so if it ain’t broke don’t fix it I said.
Having said that I obviously bought a pair of condensers, rather than just one, to sort those in one go.

Ebay condensers. A smidge cheaper than my local firm Advanced Radiators, but I was about to be taught a lesson for my cost cutting.




So Saturday rolled around and Craig and I made a start.

First job was to remove the drivers side, leaky condenser.
The coolant rad looked decent and exactly what we expected as the car has grills fitted to the bumper. It should just need a sweep and rinse out -




Then we removed the passenger side condenser to reveal that rad. Oh dear. -






The bottom 2 or 3 tubes looked ready to burst. frustrated
It was Saturday lunchtime by now, so no chance of getting any new coolant rads. That meant game over for another full week as we only have Saturdays to work on the car.
We had the rest of the day to remove the old stuff though and that posed the question, renew one rad or two? New hose clips and fixings or not? Powder coat things or not?

I decided to just do it properly as there isn’t that much difference in effort or costs and I didn’t want to have to revisit it in a year or so. So we moved the car into the garage and got it stripped.




Dirty plastics -




Powder coating pile, consisting of rad brackets, centre rad bracket, horn bracket and coolant pipes.




With everything stripped I could move onto cleaning the front tub and assessing any rust.
The only small areas were the outer lower welds on the seams....




...and a bit of flaky under-seal on the leading edge of these sections.




These were carefully ground back, not wanting to lose too big an area of the factory finish. I then applied zinc primer and 2 coats of good old fashioned Waxoyl.



Not too pretty but good to go for another good few years.

Another thing I had hoped not to have to do (otherwise I would have had Jamie do it during his work) was a full coolant flush/change.
Sure enough though when we drained the rads and removed them, the coolant that came out was the original style green stuff.
Great, so now I had that messy job to add to the list. nooo
We’d tackle that the following Saturday and then build everything up, or so we thought.

I then moved onto cleaning everything else up so it was ready for reassembly.

Plastics cleaned and treated -




Small coolant pipes polished. Top one to do. Bottom one done -




Broken pipe clips on upper cooling ducts -




Replaced, although I could only get grey ones. That obviously set my OCD nervous twitch off. Very Happy




Fitted. I only swapped the broken ones. The other side was fine -




They face the other way round when fitted anyway -




Next I cleaned up the headlight tray areas.
Now I bought this machine by accident a couple of years ago so it had sat in my garage loft unused since, but it came in very handy twice during this round of work.

Behold the Titan! Very Happy -




I watch a fair bit of detailing vids on YouTube, in particular White Details, Jim White.
He posted a vid about car dryers and using them to blow vinyl and rubber dressing into small areas that your fingers can’t get into, particularly for engine bay detailing.
Well the Titan has a blow function so I thought I’d give it a try.
Spray the vinyl dressing on and blow it about. Voila. -




You’ll see how else the Titan came in handy further on and it was even better. Wink

That was about all we could do that weekend apart from making a list of what to order, etc.

More to follow anyway....
 
  
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Marky911
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Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 2639



PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2019 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the following week (that’s last week up to last weekend) saw a steady flow of parts arriving for the rebuild on Saturday.

(Obviously I already had the condensers from the week before but they’re pictured below anyway) -




£50 went on stainless jubilee clips alone -




25 litres of coolant. The system holds 22. -




I collected my parts from the Powder-coaters. £30. It’s worth that for the couple of hours saved in not having to prep and paint them and the finish is much nicer and more durable.




So Saturday came and we decided to get the old coolant flushed out first. Do the jobs you’re least looking forward too first, then rest will be plain sailing. Wink

I was dreading the mess. Sticky anti-freeze everywhere etc.
Then I remembered that the Titan was a wet-vac and could hoover up fluids. We tried the nozzle up against the front rad hoses and it was a perfect fit. Made for the job. Very Happy




So all we did was place the nozzle up one pipe at a time and cover the opposite hose on the other side. All the coolant would then suck out.
We did this on all hoses refilling the system with clean water each time.
Once the water being emptied from the hoover ran clear we knew it was done. It took about 4/5 flushes.

We then moved to the back and removed the 2 lower engine drains.




The water from here was now crystal clear too. Job jobbed.
We hit a snag here though in that the small aluminium washers were badly corroded. Check out the right hand one at the 7 o’clock position.




So now we had to down tools and pop to my nearest town on a mission to find replacements.
Luckily Morpeth Motorparts/Morpeth Motorcycles came to the rescue with some copper ones which should fair better than the Ali ones.

New washers on drain plugs about go back in. -




With those back in we moved inside to build up the rad packs.
This is where things headed south.

Rads and condensers -




But look -






There was no way they were fitting together.
frustrated
Even more annoyingly I’d thrown the old stuff away the week before so we couldn’t even pinpoint which parts were at fault, the rads or the condensers.

It was 12.20 lunchtime and Advanced radiators closed at 12. If we hadn’t lost an hour getting the washers we’d have been able to get over and see which parts were wrong, their rads or the eBay condensers.

Aaarrrgghhh!! That’s 2 weeks off the road now.
Lesson learned, don’t buy the cheapest if you can buy locally for a little bit more. Second lesson learned. Unpack things during the week when everywhere is still open.

So again we just had to move onto anything else we could to shorten the jobs list, which basically just left my brake pads again.
As per earlier in the thread I thought I’d try one more thing with regard to the squealing. Which again, as mentioned earlier it had little chance of helping but for the sake of a few pounds I may as well do it for good measure.

Anti squeal adhesive pads -




Pads out and cleaned again -




Adhesive pads fitted then refitted -




My wear sensors were a bit crumbly where they clip onto the pads.






I’m surprised they were still fitted to be honest as most people just remove them for track use as they melt and whilst the previous owner didn’t track it I’m guessing some of the others did, given the Alcons etc.

So I decided to do away with them. I’ll fit new ones further down the line.

Wires snipped and soldered -




Heatshrinked -




Taped up -




So there went another weekend. On Monday I took the rads and condensers over to Advanced Radiators to se me what was at fault.
Weirdly it was a bit of both. The condensers were garbage and nowhere near square, but the small spigots/posts on the rads were a few mm too far in.
This is where it’s good to deal with local people though. Advanced got me a set of their condensers and even though they weren’t perfect they had their lads in the workshop tweak and adjust the mounting lugs so they fitted the rads. They will have to get onto their supplier though and tell them that the rads aren’t quite right.
As I’ve mentioned the diagonal eBay ones went back for a refund as even if we’d got one hole to line up the other one wouldn’t have. They were terrible.

So that has actually got us up to date. Sorry for the long post.
We’ll see what happens tomorrow, but any more issues that stop me getting the car on the road again will be more than a little bit annoying.
My Groupon air-con re-gas voucher expires next week. Surprised
 
  
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abcarrera
Silverstone


Joined: 14 Apr 2018
Posts: 103
Location: Norwich


PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2019 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What a great write up!
You must be able to strip a 996 of its rads with your eyes closed! Forget the PET system you probably recite the clips and screws needed from memory 😊

Top job you are doing there AGAIN! will certainly pay off for the long term though. Bet you are looking forward to your/it’s trip! I sure it will be a blast!

Looking forward to reading about the continuing adventures with your GT3 😍
_________________
Current car: 2004 996 GT3 CS
Boxster S 2015
BMW 535d Msport remapped 360 BHP 😊

Gone but not forgotten
2002 996 C2
1998 996 C2
2005 987 Boxster S
2007 997 Turbo
1990 964 C2 Cabriolet
1995 993 C2 with factory RS rep kit.
1987 911 3.2 Carrera
1982 911 SC X 2
1981 924 Turbo X 2
1991 944 Turbo, S2 & S2 Cabriolet
1981 924 Carrera GT.
 
  
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Marky911
Magny-Cours


Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 2639



PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi T, good to hear from you and thanks for the comments. Thumb
Yes me and Craig can do rads and condensers in our sleep now, well when the parts fit together like they should anyway. Wink
It’s an enjoyable little project usually, but this time we were under a bit of pressure time wise.
It’s all done now which I’ll no doubt cover soon.
The only bad part of the job is if you’re doing a coolant flush/change.
Flushing the old stuff out is simple but messy and getting the air out after refilling can be tricky.
Anyway, I hope your health is holding up and letting you enjoy yourself still.
Has the 996 not sold then? Unbelievable if so. nooo
 
  
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abcarrera
Silverstone


Joined: 14 Apr 2018
Posts: 103
Location: Norwich


PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heat helps the ole aching bones so loving the mini heatwave!
No luck with selling so still have the C2. Have just lowered the price, I hoping that makes a difference. As you know it a well sorted car with some nice suspension etc. But I guess it at the upper end of the price curve! 12-13k 996’s always look more appealing, but as you know they going to require a lot of refreshing of the springy parts 😉, black circles, plus numerous other pipes, springs, clips, dit’s and dats!
Going to Silverstone Classic this Saturday so will throw a sign in the window when it’s parked up (you never know!)
Had thought reverting back to original M030 and 18’s but 1. They help make the car different from the rest and 2. It probably would not net me enough doing that and is it worth the aggro!
I am keen to sell now as something else has now come along which I will update upon in the near future 😊
Enjoy the weather and have a great trip when you go 👍👍



Marky911 wrote:
Hi T, good to hear from you and thanks for the comments. Thumb
Yes me and Craig can do rads and condensers in our sleep now, well when the parts fit together like they should anyway. Wink
It’s an enjoyable little project usually, but this time we were under a bit of pressure time wise.
It’s all done now which I’ll no doubt cover soon.
The only bad part of the job is if you’re doing a coolant flush/change.
Flushing the old stuff out is simple but messy and getting the air out after refilling can be tricky.
Anyway, I hope your health is holding up and letting you enjoy yourself still.
Has the 996 not sold then? Unbelievable if so. nooo

_________________
Current car: 2004 996 GT3 CS
Boxster S 2015
BMW 535d Msport remapped 360 BHP 😊

Gone but not forgotten
2002 996 C2
1998 996 C2
2005 987 Boxster S
2007 997 Turbo
1990 964 C2 Cabriolet
1995 993 C2 with factory RS rep kit.
1987 911 3.2 Carrera
1982 911 SC X 2
1981 924 Turbo X 2
1991 944 Turbo, S2 & S2 Cabriolet
1981 924 Carrera GT.
 
  
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JJT
Newbie


Joined: 13 Mar 2011
Posts: 14
Location: SPAIN


PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amazing thread Thumb
 
  
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Marky911
Magny-Cours


Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 2639



PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2019 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi T,

Yes unfortunately the average 996 buyer has a budget of upto about £15k and struggles to justify the likes of £20k.
I was guilty of it myself when I bought mine. I had a budget of £13k at the time. I then spent over £16k in 3 years and 2000 miles, selling for £19k. Cost of ownership £10k!

Had I bought a sorted one for £20k and left it alone I’d have probably got £19k-£20k back for it. Cost of ownership £1k or two after servicing.

Yours is worth the money to the right buyer but it just takes time. Plus we are in less rosy times than 2 or 3 years ago. Things will pick up though, sooner or later.

I’m glad the summer is easing your pain anyway. Everything is better when the sun is shining. Thumb


Hi JJT,
Thanks for the comment.
Spain? You must get some great driving in over there. Cool
 
  
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