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stuttgartmetal
Indianapolis


Joined: 23 Feb 2009
Posts: 2407
Location: Caterham. Surrey


PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 9:50 pm    Post subject: Rear Speed Sensor Removal Reply with quote

Well after soaking the Allen bolt for two day I put an long Allen key on it, and it unscrewed !

But the sensor is in there solid.

How do you get the sensor put ?
 



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Endoman
Barcelona


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1321
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Fri Mar 29, 2019 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a really difficult job. Although the sensor body is plastic the aluminium will have oxidised and swollen jamming it in. Try some pipe grips on the metal collar (not much room) heat and pentrating oil. See if it will twist a bit.
I ended up drilling most of it out. A small drill into the copper wiring around the magnetic core. Once the core is out with yards of fine copper wire penetrate the end of the sensor with a large wood screw and use that to pull out the rest. Drilling with a Dremmel will help due to it's small body size.
I bought a special reamer to clean out the hole afterwards they are made just for that purpose. A set from Machine Mart is not too expensive in fact cheaper than an individual one on ebay. Clean out the threads in the retaining bolt hole as well and fit with Molykote or similar do not use copper anti-seize.
There is a write up on Rennlist perhaps 944 forum.
Be careful not to drill too far into the sensor housing and damage the sensor wheel, refer to the new sensor.
If all fails then you have to remove the hub and hammer it out from inside.
Slow and steady, being a Dentist I have access to some lovely little picks and chisels which helped. They did not go back to the surgery I hasten to add.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/585004-replacing-wheel-speed-sensor.html
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stuttgartmetal
Indianapolis


Joined: 23 Feb 2009
Posts: 2407
Location: Caterham. Surrey


PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And onwards we go.......
 



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Endoman
Barcelona


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1321
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The magnetic core is very brittle and may snap so work around it removing the copper wire then you're just left with the plastic outer which you can carefully collapse with fine chisels or a dremmel cutter avoiding the aluminium. I use a rose head bur in the dremmel to score the inner surface and then a tiny chisel to fold it in. Once free the wood screw should pull it out. The housing will need a good clean out with the reamer if you can get one otherwise the new sensor will not go in easily to the full depth.
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stuttgartmetal
Indianapolis


Joined: 23 Feb 2009
Posts: 2407
Location: Caterham. Surrey


PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Straight to Machine Mart for a Draper punch and chisel set.
£9
I bought a Chinese Dremel copy for £25 off eBay last year.
That came in useful. Toptip: if you do buy a copy Dremel, buy the genuine Dremel accessories.

This is where I am now.
I’ve ordered a new sensor from Matt at Type911 in Beckenham.
 



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Endoman
Barcelona


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1321
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congratulations on a job well done that many would baulk at. I recently acquired 4 Dremmels with all the attachments invaluable stuff. I even used one on my own tooth at Daytona after a traumatic experience with some beef jerky not something I would recommend.
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DrJimBone
Spa-Francorchamps


Joined: 12 Oct 2017
Posts: 294
Location: Bournemouth


PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Endoman wrote:
Congratulations on a job well done that many would baulk at. I recently acquired 4 Dremmels with all the attachments invaluable stuff. I even used one on my own tooth at Daytona after a traumatic experience with some beef jerky not something I would recommend.


Did I just read that a dentist used a Dremmel on his own tooth?!? Floor

All those years of kitchen roll / electrical tape knuckle repairs are forgiven Grin Thumb

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stuttgartmetal
Indianapolis


Joined: 23 Feb 2009
Posts: 2407
Location: Caterham. Surrey


PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of those jobs that require a bit of focus and patience.
The rears are easier to access, and because the bolts situated east/west there’s less chance of it filling with water and corroding.
Having the tools when you do jobs like this is the key.
A multimeter to check resistance diagnoses the sensor’s functionality.
Plenty of wd40 on the Allen bolt. A good Allen key set which needs to be seated properly. Take care to really clean the bolt out before torque is applied to it. I snapped the head off the sensor, and drilled it out. The dremel tool with a remote handset. I drilled out the white plastic first, which I did with plenty of light so you can see what you’re doing.
A needle punch folded the drilled sensor in on itself.
I got access by removing the caliper, disc and backplate, which I had recently fitted up after a refurb.

I’m hoping this will replacement will extinguish the ABD and ABS light.
Just waiting for a sensor now, before I can conclude the operation.
 



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axlefoley
Newbie


Joined: 04 May 2012
Posts: 20



PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny just done this over the wknd as well ,as my nsr was faulty .
bloody nightmare . Ns bolt snapped and sensor was also seized , had to drill both out .my cars a 95, Make sure you don't have the old type part number sensors as you will have to change both rears to the new senors. There's is a technical Bulitn about floating on the web .the osr was a little bit easier as learnt my lession and used a lot of heat . Thumb
 
  
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stuttgartmetal
Indianapolis


Joined: 23 Feb 2009
Posts: 2407
Location: Caterham. Surrey


PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

axlefoley wrote:
Make sure you don't have the old type part number sensors as you will have to change both rears to the new senors. There's is a technical Bulitn about floating on the web:




I’m all ears
Could you expand your comment so I can get my head round it ......
 
  
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axlefoley
Newbie


Joined: 04 May 2012
Posts: 20



PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here you go .
 



New_ABS_sensors_1997_64097.pdf
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stuttgartmetal
Indianapolis


Joined: 23 Feb 2009
Posts: 2407
Location: Caterham. Surrey


PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2019 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thankfully not applicable as the car is a 96.
But massively interesting.
Thanks for the pdf.
 
  
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berni29
Watkins Glen


Joined: 24 Oct 2009
Posts: 2182
Location: Kent


PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2019 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, just to add my 2pence on this, on the steel bodied ones I usually snap the top off then use a blowtorch (with the surrounding area tin foiled off) to soften the plastic surrounding the core, then pull that out. Then using a small sharp screwdriver and hammer (or similar), collapse the tube in on itself. Then just pull it out. Drilling is a super PITA because the core is super hard. It’s still a crappy job though.

Berni
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993 C2 Tip 1994 187k miles. Black and Grey. M029 & Bilstein HD's, Elephant Racing RS bushes F&R, RS mounts, strengthened engine carrier, 100 cell cat inserts, HID's. Solid steering arms mod, top of the engine rebuilt, mapped by Wayne, suspension set up by Chris.
 
  
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stuttgartmetal
Indianapolis


Joined: 23 Feb 2009
Posts: 2407
Location: Caterham. Surrey


PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2019 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

£120 later.

And on.......
 



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stuttgartmetal
Indianapolis


Joined: 23 Feb 2009
Posts: 2407
Location: Caterham. Surrey


PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2019 12:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a tricky job, however Halfords is your friend. For as much as they get slagged off, their professional tools are awesome. Ok, not Snapon but still have a lifetime guarantee and good for non pros.

Order of play

ABD and ABS lights do not extinguish on start up, or flash on when driving.

Check your battery connectors, especially the positive additional connector
Clean the two or three relays found under the bonnet on the left of the spare.
Uncluttered the cover nearest the inner flitch or arch whatever you know it as.

Check your lights don’t go out still

Next

Jack up
Axle stands
Front and rear
Find the sensor
Click the block out of the plastic cylinder
Unplug the sensor
Set your multimeter (7.99 eBay) to omega (resistance) and the reading shoul be 1400-1600 ohms. If it’s not recording a resistance when measuring across the sensor contacts, the sensor is fubarred. You may have one not working or a number of them.


Soak the bolt holding the sensor in place with Ed 40. I soaked mine hourly for 2 days. Clean the bolt and firmly seat a 5mm Allen key.
Get this bolt out cleanly and your golden.
Muller the bolt and you enter a world of pain.

Cut the lead off the sensor
Break the cover off
With a Dremell (£25chinese copy eBay) still out the plastic carefully so not to damage the aluminium which the very very expensive Porsche suspension is made out of. Using a fine punch, fold the core in on itself

Clean the hole out
Use a new bolt
Refit new sensor


It’s 90% sensor problems that trigger the light.
The aluminium oxidises, and crush the sensor.
That’s why they’re difficult to remove.
The key to removal is getting the retaining bolt out.
 



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Luddite
Monza


Joined: 18 Dec 2018
Posts: 185
Location: Scotland


PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2019 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for posting this Stutgartmetal, great descriptions and pics a job WELL done worship
 
  
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aspo13
Newbie


Joined: 11 Oct 2014
Posts: 17



PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2019 9:43 am    Post subject: Front ABS sensor Reply with quote

Hi,
Having similar symptoms with my ABS sensors lighting up the dash (think it showed up as fault code 17, if memory serves). Its showing up as front O/S.
Where is best to get these from as usual ECP/GSF don't do the parts?
Is it necessary to replace both N/S & O/S at the same time?
Thanks
 
  
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Endoman
Barcelona


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1321
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2019 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't know of a cross reference, I got my rears from OPC. I think fronts didn't change as the rears did but I found my '94 had both rear later types. So you shouldn't have to change them both. It's a rip off when other makes are available for £15 or so, well at least no Brexit for 6 months. God knows what genuine parts will cost then and Germany having problems with Trump doesn't look good.
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axlefoley
Newbie


Joined: 04 May 2012
Posts: 20



PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2019 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your speed sensors which are on the car don't have
The part number (written on the wiring not the sensor it's self )
P Number 993 606 405 00 then you will need to change both fronts .
Think the sensor does have bosch written on it so maybe able to get them from somewhere else. I got mine from porsche.
 
  
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stuttgartmetal
Indianapolis


Joined: 23 Feb 2009
Posts: 2407
Location: Caterham. Surrey


PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2019 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get them from Matt at type911shop
Single changes are fine.
There’s an easy test. You run a ohmmeter between the two terminals.
 
  
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