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More chassis legs

mashby

Well-known member
Joined
12 Nov 2016
Messages
159
A few months back whilst fitting a new exhaust I thought it would be a good idea to check the chassis legs after seeing others on here.
At nearly 159k miles and 25 years old I was expecting it to be bad :sad:

So the strip down began...
 

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First impressions weren't too bad as it's all heat shields but on closer inspection I could see the wing plates were a bit crusty. A prod with a screwdriver revealed a hole :eek:

Removing the bumper beam I could now see inside the chassis legs :nooo:
The Left hand chassis leg was in a much worse condition inside than the right one!
 

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Time to remove the bumper tubes, heat shields and wing plates. Even spraying releasing oil on the fixings I still sheared a few studs In the process.
This was hiding under the wing plates :nooo:
 

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Looks like we will all have this problem to some degree. Interesting that my left was worse than the right as well. I had stainless studs welded into the repair panel, 2 of the originals snapped. I'll be using a special stainless anti seize with stainless nuts.
 
My goodness what a difference running a car without subjecting it to salt and grit on the UK roads makes. Mine has never seen the stuff... thank god. :thumb:

ATB :)
 

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mashby said:
First impressions weren't too bad as it's all heat shields but on closer inspection I could see the wing plates were a bit crusty. A prod with a screwdriver revealed a hole :eek:

Removing the bumper beam I could now see inside the chassis legs :nooo:
The Left hand chassis leg was in a much worse condition inside than the right one!

Ouch, that looks a bit nasty :eek: I'm sure they will be like new once repaired.
I was a lot luckier with mine a month ago, perhaps a sheltered life has helped them.
Keep up the good work and post regular updates :thumb:

There are some good products out there for rust prevention once completed.
I used Bilt Hamber Electrox 93% zinc primer before the top coats and sprayed with about 6 coats of Dynax S50 to all plates and in the cavities once all work completed.
Looks like it will last forever.

Good luck :thumb:
 

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yeh luck of the draw, this is quite a bad case.....you would expect nearside to come worse off in the rot battle...most are in my experience. If you live near the coast that is likely to affect things.......however mileage seems not to be an indicator of the likely dreaded..

you would have thought a bit of seam sealer around the edge of the plate at factory would prevent all this....I guess Porsche don't build cars with an eye on ownership 25 yrs after sale :)

Trev
 
Sorry for the undoubtedly incredibly thick question...but would stuff like this have been addressed in a full glass out respray by a reputable bodyshop? Mine was resprayed just before I bought it and (not being very technical/DIY-minded) I am hoping for some reassurance that it'll no doubt be alright :dont know:
 
pierrebear said:
Sorry for the undoubtedly incredibly thick question...but would stuff like this have been addressed in a full glass out respray by a reputable bodyshop? Mine was resprayed just before I bought it and (not being very technical/DIY-minded) I am hoping for some reassurance that it'll no doubt be alright :dont know:
Probably no, mine wasn't. The only way is to take the wing stays off, removing the bumper supports to look inside gives a false sense of security.
In addition to spraying wax from the ends there is a bung in the engine compartment where you can get at the bits further down.
 
NIBrown said:
mashby said:
First impressions weren't too bad as it's all heat shields but on closer inspection I could see the wing plates were a bit crusty. A prod with a screwdriver revealed a hole :eek:

Removing the bumper beam I could now see inside the chassis legs :nooo:
The Left hand chassis leg was in a much worse condition inside than the right one!

Ouch, that looks a bit nasty :eek: I'm sure they will be like new once repaired.
I was a lot luckier with mine a month ago, perhaps a sheltered life has helped them.
Keep up the good work and post regular updates :thumb:

There are some good products out there for rust prevention once completed.
I used Bilt Hamber Electrox 93% zinc primer before the top coats and sprayed with about 6 coats of Dynax S50 to all plates and in the cavities once all work completed.
Looks like it will last forever.

Good luck :thumb:

It's all protected with Bilt Hamber now it's finished. I put it all back together last weekend :thumbs:
I'll post another update tonight.
 
I think it's pretty much a given that any 993 that hasn't been locked away in a barn for over a decade will need the chassis legs titivating...

It's almost 3 years since I had mine sorted: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=110992&highlight=chassis+legs

Whilst in there, it's a good idea to check the inside lip/edge of the rear arches as these are also very prone to rust, mainly from the peppering they get from stones along with their now 20+ years under their belt. I had mine sorted and painted while the chassis legs were repaired. :thumb:

C.
 
wheel arches

Cableguy,did you just get the wheel arches cleaned and painted or did you have to paint the whole wing? When my car was in getting scuttle done I commented to the body shop there was some light bubbles on the inner lip of wheel arches and could they tidy them up? He replied that he would need to paint the whole side of the car which seemed ridiculous. I would have thought a good painter could have blended the inner lip without needing to come up onto the side of the car?
 
Good news that the car is being looked after Mashby. Unfortunately as we all now know, most of these old girls rot in these areas. Unless she has lived a charmed life on the continent it's inevitable that these issues need to be addressed sooner rather than later. I spent the winter 3 years ago stripping down the rear of mine to do some preventative maintenance. Luckily enough it wasn't as bad as I first thought and thankfully mine got new bumper supports and a coating of Dynax along with a lot of other hard work like heat shields and replacement of all the nut and bolts that has rusted. Unfortunately I got some good and bad news last week. I sent my old girl to my trusted Indy for some preplanned 'Nicesties' as he calls them that has lead to some bodywork. Some bubbling appeared on the sills and on closer inspection it had been rusting from the inside out. He cut out the bad bits and has done a great job bringing it back to perfect. May be the collective should check these areas next time you get a chance. It may be just mine that has suffered weakness in this area. My Indy has told me the rear is perfect still 3 years later which is encouraging. Engine out now for some more TLC. I'm not looking forward to the bill :eek: .
 

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Thanks Jet Jock, it's definitely getting looked after. I have already inspected the sills and the near side does need repair. Should be an easy repair for a body shop and not anywhere near as expensive as the quote I've had to replace the sills on my MGB.
 
After cutting the rot out I ground off the surface corrosion and zinc primed. A friend made up a repair panel for the near side and a small patch for the off side.
 

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