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3.4 ragged/bore scoring

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crispostorko

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Joined
16 Nov 2018
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So i'm looking at a manual GTS.. this is its history:
17k miles in - new clutch
5k miles in - new rear tyres

It's obviously been on the track, or ragged around.

So i'd be buying a GTS with a new clutch. The dealer (not OPC)'s given me the usual "82 point inspection" bullcrap BUT they are a reputable dealer.

What should I look for on this car when I test drive it? I've read about bore scoring.. if this has been ragged.. what needs inspecting?

i dont want to buy a 50k car then have it blow up on me
 
Piece of mind would have me sending the car off to OPC for the 111point check. Bore Scoring and you winning the Lotto have about the same chance. It's not impossible but there have been instances of it. Usually in very cold environments and thrashed.
How you burn through a clutch in 17k miles is somewhat concerning. Our Audi is on 130k on the original clutch with no signs of it wanting to give up the ghost. It may have failed for other reasons other than abuse too.
A GTS is a cracking car, you won't go far wrong with that.
 
Going on the wise words of Baz at Hartech, these cars being used properly is not the issue. In his mind, cars that spend their lives around town with lots of torque-y pulling away and never having the cobwebs blown out are at more risk of borescore.

These cars want to be warmed up and warmed down properly, I warm up for 7 miles keeping it under 3k during that period.

You don't state which generation you're looking at? Another thing he says is that if you have been making progress and suddenly get stopped unexpectedly at lights for example, the engine reaches critical temps due to the lack of cooling from being stationary. He states you must never then burn it off again, so traffic light GPs are out. I go back into warm up mode for a mile or two after an unexpected stop when the car is super hot.

There's plenty on the subject, I believe Baz's document on the matter is 47 pages.

If the car has been tracked lots, transmission and suspension would be the things to look at. Also have a gander at the engine data, from there you'll be able to see exactly what life the engine has had.
 
The return of Marty Wild said:
Going on the wise words of Baz at Hartech, these cars being used properly is not the issue. In his mind, cars that spend their lives around town with lots of torque-y pulling away and never having the cobwebs blown out are at more risk of borescore.

These cars want to be warmed up and warmed down properly, I warm up for 7 miles keeping it under 3k during that period.

You don't state which generation you're looking at? Another thing he says is that if you have been making progress and suddenly get stopped unexpectedly at lights for example, the engine reaches critical temps due to the lack of cooling from being stationary. He states you must never then burn it off again, so traffic light GPs are out. I go back into warm up mode for a mile or two after an unexpected stop when the car is super hot.

There's plenty on the subject, I believe Baz's document on the matter is 47 pages.

If the car has been tracked lots, transmission and suspension would be the things to look at. Also have a gander at the engine data, from there you'll be able to see exactly what life the engine has had.
Click to expand...

Thanks dude.. nice informative reply. It's a Boxster GTS 981 by the way. 15 plate.
 
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh, in that case, you have NOTHING to worry about in terms of borescoring, it's the older cars that suffer from BS.

So check the engine data for the lifetime av speed (mileage divide by engine hours) to pinpoint where the car has spend most of its time. Then check for 'over-revs' as per that link. And as stated, transmission and suspension most likely to have the wear from TDs.

And all cars, especially Porkers (which have vast amounts of oil) need thorough warming up. My Cayman has 3x as much oil as my Golf.
 
Apologies, the fact you said GTS probably defines the fact you are looking at a GTS as I don't think the 987 era had a GTS variant.

Just saw the word 'borescore' and ran with it!
 
The return of Marty Wild said:
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh, in that case, you have NOTHING to worry about in terms of borescoring, it's the older cars that suffer from BS.

So check the engine data for the lifetime av speed (mileage divide by engine hours) to pinpoint where the car has spend most of its time. Then check for 'over-revs' as per that link. And as stated, transmission and suspension most likely to have the wear from TDs.

And all cars, especially Porkers (which have vast amounts of oil) need thorough warming up. My Cayman has 3x as much oil as my Golf.
Click to expand...

So the dealer says they do an ECU check as part of their "82 point check".. should I ask them to provide the diagnostics including the rev range data then?
 
I would, its not tough, as you say they just plug in PIWIS and it's displayed very easily.

What the dealer views as worthy of mention and what the buyer might, could be two different things.

Porsche for example would only offer you a warranty if the rev ranges meet their criteria. Which I cant remember off the top of my head.
 
The return of Marty Wild said:
I would, its not tough, as you say they just plug in PIWIS and it's displayed very easily.

What the dealer views as worthy of mention and what the buyer might, could be two different things.

Porsche for example would only offer you a warranty if the rev ranges meet their criteria. Which I cant remember off the top of my head.
Click to expand...

So i asked and they said they don't have a device that can check the rev limit data, only the ECU faults of which there were none.

Furthermore there is a legitimate reason as to why the clutch was fooked which i wont discuss here...
 
Hmmmmmmmmmmm, allow Demort (the in-house Tech) to comment on that. Sounds a bit fishy to me!

I've seen my car's engine data 3 times at different locations, really not hard.
 
crispostorko said:
The return of Marty Wild said:
I would, its not tough, as you say they just plug in PIWIS and it's displayed very easily.

What the dealer views as worthy of mention and what the buyer might, could be two different things.

Porsche for example would only offer you a warranty if the rev ranges meet their criteria. Which I cant remember off the top of my head.
Click to expand...

So i asked and they said they don't have a device that can check the rev limit data, only the ECU faults of which there were none.

Furthermore there is a legitimate reason as to why the clutch was fooked which i wont discuss here...
Click to expand...
Sounds like they are fully equipped with a 10 bob generic code reader from eBay.
 
crispostorko said:
Furthermore there is a legitimate reason as to why the clutch was fooked which i wont discuss here...
Click to expand...

Curious...

Official Secrets Act? Celebrity gagging order? :dont know:

Maybe it was a press car, hence new rear tyres after 5k miles and a new clutch after performance tests?
 
Put the intended vehicle through an OPC 111-point inspection. It is thorough, comprehensive and costs around £200 and they have your interest in the purchase and will provide you a full inspection report. Then decide how you want to move forward.

If the dealer is trying to negate you having this done or refuses to ut it through at your expense, walk away.
 
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