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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1124
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2018 5:58 pm    Post subject: Engine drop Reply with quote

Getting there it's filthy underneath the car so much cleaning to be done and several oil leaks to sort. R/h inner cv boot it split, not looking forward to that messy job.
Big nut on oil line was 32mm not 36 as the book says but came off easily with the correct spanner. the other metal line is a different matter it just will not budge so Ive disconnected the rubber hose after cutting the jubilee clip, why oh why is the screw mild steel and the band stainless? Starter motor next (very useful tips on here)
Not touched the top end as yet should be easier, well it's a lot cleaner for a start.
Tip get some Laser oil absorbing mats to put on the garage floor the oil has a nasty habit of missing the washing up bowl. (I wonder if she'll notice, her toothbrush came in useful too)
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Jack D
Monza


Joined: 05 Jul 2011
Posts: 190



PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2018 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having that lift is a bonus, I bought one recently and seriously wish I’d bought it 10yrs ago !

I change the rear cv boot on mine recently, stripping things out to drop the engine as you are, will make this an easy job.
Great project you have going on there, hope it all goes to plan. Keep us posted on the progress.

Jack D
 
  
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Cameltoe & Heel
Suzuka


Joined: 26 Jan 2009
Posts: 1165
Location: Preston - Lancs


PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great set-up mate, let me know if you need a lift with anything.

Trev
 
  
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1124
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Trev, hope you don't regret the offer. I've found WD40 soak and a good scrub loosens up the oil soaked gunk followed by xylene (wear a respirator) horrible stuff, worked well. It even got rid of the cosmoline remnants. A cryoblast would be preferable or even soda but not found a mobile as yet so it's soak and scrub. Something to keep me away from the Trafford Center in these coming months. I now know my personal pergatory.
The garage is my haven, shame the house is still not finished. What is it with British builders, start a job and then dissappear for weeks?
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Jet Jock
Montreal


Joined: 18 Jul 2005
Posts: 507
Location: Dublin


PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good work Endoman. Mine is coming out this week for the usual preventive maintenance and a good clean. I hope they don't find me any surprises.
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1124
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice spec on your car Jock. I would expect a few surprises, mainly good hopefully considering the age of our cars. I had one when I ordered a new oil return pipe. Still not got the b*st*rd out.
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1124
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2018 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Success today got the oil pipe and drive shaft out. I released the lower shock mount and propped the suspension up to give enough room to waggle it out. The big nut came fairly easily with a long breaker bar and after a few smacks with my trusty copper hammer the drive shaft was out.
Do wear vinyl gloves when dismantling the cv joint as it it really messy.
The cross members are cleaning up nicely. I tried Wurth engine clean as it's less lethal than xylene.
The leaking cam cover is a pain and the top is leaking as well left side is completely dry upper and lower.
You can also see my clutch housing mod, no vent pipe.
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Jet Jock
Montreal


Joined: 18 Jul 2005
Posts: 507
Location: Dublin


PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2018 2:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that Endoman. Again, great work. Is giving me some confidence to tackle the harder bits I’ve left to the pro’s in the past. Thumb

(Now back to rebuilding this 106 Surprised )
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993 C2, RSR's, Cargraphic 100 Cell Cat, Turbo Twist Hollows, Brembo Big Reds Turbo Brakes, Big Ovals, Wayne Schofield Remap, KW Supersport set up by Chris Franklin, RS engine and transmission mounts, Fabspeed induction kit, HID conversion...
 
  
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1124
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2018 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Removed ps pump reservoir, the oil was disgusting.
New oil return pipe, slightly different. It takes 3 o-rings 2 in the grooves and a fine one at the shoulder. I could have straightened the bracket, reused the old one and saved 131 Euros but I'd broken the weld getting it off.
Chewed up drain plug and very dirty PSS10.
The air box is a struggle to remove.
New boot on drive shaft, that grease gets everywhere, a messy but not too difficult job with the right tools.
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1124
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of those while I'm in there I'll have a look at the chassis legs. I did r/h ages ago but never looked at left for some reason. the wing support is also rotten but the struts are fine.
Those horrid little nuts that hold the heat shield needed a good dose of PB blaster to get then to move. Highly recommended best stuff I've ever used.
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Cameltoe & Heel
Suzuka


Joined: 26 Jan 2009
Posts: 1165
Location: Preston - Lancs


PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John, that chassis leg doesn't look great, I agree those top hat nuts are a pain, I renewed all mine. I was going to have a go at a referbing my driveshaft as one of the CV's was shattered in the smash but there's a flange I couldn't get hold of so ended up with new items from Porsche.

Those big nuts are a pain, but my Dad's 900nm impact gun did the business on mine.

You've got a fair amount of work there fella, let me know when you're in there and I'll pop over and take a look Smile

Trev
 
  
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1124
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will be welding up the hole myself in the chassis leg.
I should have waited a bit longer for the PB Blaster to work on the bumper supports, 2 studs have fractured flush with the inner wing. I intend to remove the central electric box in the engine compartment and see if I can drill them out and fit stud nuts or a bolt from the inside. from the pet it appears to stand off from the inner wing with rubber mounts so there should be enough room to fit something. I have tried butt welded studs but it's hit and miss and not very strong. It must be a common problem so perhaps someone out there has a tidy solution.
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Cameltoe & Heel
Suzuka


Joined: 26 Jan 2009
Posts: 1165
Location: Preston - Lancs


PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2018 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Endoman wrote:
I will be welding up the hole myself in the chassis leg.
I should have waited a bit longer for the PB Blaster to work on the bumper supports, 2 studs have fractured flush with the inner wing. I intend to remove the central electric box in the engine compartment and see if I can drill them out and fit stud nuts or a bolt from the inside. from the pet it appears to stand off from the inner wing with rubber mounts so there should be enough room to fit something. I have tried butt welded studs but it's hit and miss and not very strong. It must be a common problem so perhaps someone out there has a tidy solution.


It absolutely does, three of them that will give you at least 15mm clearance, so plenty to fit some sort of bolt affair.

Shame you sheared these studs, did you try any heat?, they're quite fragile. I think they would have been stud welded onto the chassis leg at the factory.

You got a decent mig welder?, what stock steel you using?.

Trev
 
  
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1124
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The studs appear to be some type of self-clinching type. I'll drill through and fit stainless riv-studs. I have a small mig welder and will use the decent remnants of the wing support shelf to patch. I've got a mate with good welding experience to give me a hand. New shelves to be collected this aft along with other bits from Bolton OPC. I treated the r/h side about 8 yrs ago with POR15 and it has held up well. Yes, Ishould have put some heat in those nuts and given the PB blaster a lot longer to work they just snapped like carrots. I've having a go at making my own stainless struts they look pretty simple and I can get stainless welding done locally. Unfortunately OC who had the previous ones made is a bit hard to get hold of and the supply has dried up.
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1124
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2018 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I decided to leave the slave cylinder on and remove the flexy hose as it's overdue for replacement. Unforunately I couldn't budge the hard line fitting and cut the hard line at the union at the back of the gearbox which was still a beast to get out Only the gearlinkage (golden rod) to remove and all is ready for the drop. The serpentine kit arrived today so a bit more bling to go on.
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johne
Monza


Joined: 07 Apr 2008
Posts: 159



PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 7:33 am    Post subject: engine drop[ Reply with quote

I take my hat off to you endoman and wish I lived around the corner to you Sad
 
  
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1124
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 6:20 pm    Post subject: She's out Reply with quote

Et voila!
Quite nervous but no major mishaps. It would have been easier with some one to watch that all wiring, pipes, etc. were out of the way. The area aound No3 spark plug is very tight. The Wilding cradle did not balance the engine /gearbox combination so I had to put another jack under the gearbox. I use Adrain Streathers book, the Bentley manual and this write up :- https://rennlist.com/forums/993-1995-1998/202772-engine-removal.html
as guides but apart from Toga's post the instructions are scant and some bits ignored completely.
eg. Don't remove the starter motor just disconnect the earth strap and positive lead. if you can separate the clutch flexy at the hard line union you can leave the clutch slave as it's a pig to get at and even more difficult to put back. The geabox mount requires removal of the center gearlinkage cover tray to access the forward stays.
Time for a beer and a hot soak.
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Pretzel
Hockenheim


Joined: 20 Apr 2014
Posts: 674
Location: Bedfordshire


PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done that man. Thumb
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johne
Monza


Joined: 07 Apr 2008
Posts: 159



PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 12:29 am    Post subject: engine drop Reply with quote

oh yes worship
 
  
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Endoman
Suzuka


Joined: 11 Apr 2011
Posts: 1124
Location: Bolton U.K.


PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2018 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I occasionally thought I'd bitten off more than I could chew. I have the time, faclities and tools so why not?
I've been working on engines and gearboxes for 50 yrs. but nothing as advanced or as complex. I admire Trev's youth and comittment an amazing job. Jackal was my inspiration to get hands on and his site is amazingly useful.
One of the few remaing classics that is not beyond some diy. It is not easy and puts into focus the charges of some indies.
Like someone once said "What did you think was cheap about Porches?"
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