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Andyspencer100
Silverstone


Joined: 15 Jan 2016
Posts: 101



PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 4:20 pm    Post subject: 2011 958 3.0TDI resonating at 1000, 1600-2200 rpm Reply with quote

Hi Guys,

Been away for a bit as I had to sell the 911 to fund this new house, I know my priorities are off big time, anyway, got the minus a 70k miles 958 as above and the engine had to come out for the chain guard oil seal to be replaced. since then (I think) there has been a strange resonating vibration around the above RPM's.

Now I guess it'll be an exhaust rubber or mount, engine mount or gearbox mount but I wonder if anyone has suffered this before and can point me in the direction of a likely culprit based on these symptoms?

If not, I will start the process, find it and post back with a how too, in case it helps someone else. Confused
 
  
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HSC911
Long Beach


Joined: 23 Jul 2014
Posts: 6529
Location: Bedford


PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 8:38 pm    Post subject: Re: 2011 958 3.0TDI resonating at 1000, 1600-2200 rpm Reply with quote

Andyspencer100 wrote:
Been away for a bit as I had to sell the 911 to fund this new house, I know my priorities are off big time...


Not at all... Welcome back!

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Phil 997
Le Mans
Le Mans


Joined: 05 Dec 2015
Posts: 15279
Location: Bournemouth,Dorset

2009 Porsche 997 Carrera 4S

PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Andy good to see you back keep us posted on what you find Thumb
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911 Owners,Some Invest In The Future,
Others Enjoy The Moment Today.
 
  
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Andyspencer100
Silverstone


Joined: 15 Jan 2016
Posts: 101



PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks guys, it's good to be back!!

I'm actually looking for a 997 C4S with high mileage for the right price, full intending to strip the engine down and rebuild it from scratch in my new workshop (the new house has some advantages) with haertech liners (I'll send that off to them) uprated IMS and new chains etc etc etc. So the milage doesn't bother me at all.

When I find the cayenne issue, and I will, I shall report back with pictures. Thumb Thumb
 
  
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deMort
Dijon


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 7004
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Difficult to say what it is but if we relate it to the engine being out then i would be haveing a good look at any pipes from the engine touching the body work or perhaps not in the rubber mounts properly .

power steering pipes perhaps Dont know
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Andyspencer100
Silverstone


Joined: 15 Jan 2016
Posts: 101



PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

every day is a learning curve and all that.. It's in for it's service, and I sent it to an Audi specialist as I figured 2 things. !). it was almost half the price, and 2 it's basically a toureg/Q7 anyway.

So, they have replaced the belt, checked the crank pulley and everything. They have had it 2 days and everything else is ok. So they think it is (and bear with me here, I had no idea a tiptronic had one of these) the DMF..

he said it isn't exactly a DMF but it does a similar job and he thinks I should live whit it until it becomes much worse as its an engine out job again and he thinks its fine for a while yet.

I mean thats very honest of him I think.
 
  
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deMort
Dijon


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 7004
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im a little confused here .. DMF = Duel Mass Flywheel .. thats on a manual .. Tips have a Torque convertor .

Ive got to admit i cant remember the last Tip box i dropped on one of these but im pretty sure it was a standard Torque convertor fitted.

I think i need to read up a bit on this as atm i dont understand it .. and thats rare !

Front crank pully is dampened though .

You can drop a tip box on these without engine removal .


https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=4999&MAK=3&MDL=35&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0

Edit ..

All i can think of is hes talking about the convertor lock up clutch and saying its similar to a DMF .. well there would be a fault code in the Tip CU for that .
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Andyspencer100
Silverstone


Joined: 15 Jan 2016
Posts: 101



PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2018 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That’s definitely what he’s talking about if, the torque converter looks like a big bulbous thing that sits between the gearbox and the engine?

Other than that, he’s out of options as to what it could be.
 
  
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deMort
Dijon


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 7004
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2018 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup .. a torque convertor .. its a system of vains that direct fluid with a lock up clutch to give you 1-1 drive .. think of slipping a manual car to pull away .

Normally there will be a fault code if its this .. ie the lock up clutch as the car can see the speed difference between engine and first motion shaft .

i think a fault code check is needed first if not already done ..

Its not a cheap item to replace on a hunch .

Vibration though .. hmm ..

Propshaft center bearing is more likely but im guessing as i cant see the car .. worth checking the prop though.

I would also add the transfer box can cause issues with out fault codes so to be honest this is a little tricky to answer .
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Andyspencer100
Silverstone


Joined: 15 Jan 2016
Posts: 101



PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2018 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, I have done some trial and error fettling and managed to reduce the resonation by at least 60%, in fact the 1000 rpm has completely gone. The 2 x rubber stops for the bonnet were wound down completely and thus the bonnet was rattling at certain frequencies.

So it's just whatever else is loose now to track down. Torque converter I don't think is the issue, and the guys who was trying to explain what it was actually did think it had a DMF.... Turns out he was the apprentice. LOL

Anyhoo, I'm going to track it down and fix it myself!! Will report back
 
  
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Andyspencer100
Silverstone


Joined: 15 Jan 2016
Posts: 101



PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2018 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is getting boring now.
I’m going to change the front and rear diff oil as well as the transfer case fluid as at 76k it might as well be done. And I’m hoping this improves things.

Any idea what oil to use? Castrol is what I’ve used on other cars and in my 997. It seems fairly DIY
 
  
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deMort
Dijon


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 7004
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2018 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im afraid at work i just use the oil they give me so off hand im unsure .. diff oil will probably be 75/90 but the transfer box is a speacial oil .. probably best to phone an opc for a price then ask what oil type it is.

Im afraid i cant see changeing the oils will make any difference to a vibration.

I think if i had tha car in at work i would be useing a chassis ear .. micro phones connected to different places on the car to try and track down this fault .

It still feels to me like a metal pipe or bracket is touching the body work .. this will transfer engine vibration the the body .

Just to confirm .. you have checked the prop center bearing to make sure theres no excessive play .. split basically .

Also i take it you are no where near Brighton ?
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Andyspencer100
Silverstone


Joined: 15 Jan 2016
Posts: 101



PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 3:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Mate,

Unfortunately not, I’m in Sheffield.
I’m sure you’re right. I just need to get under the car which is difficult at the moment with no access to my garage.

I haven’t checked the centre bearing yet either. I promise that’s tomorrow’s job
 
  
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Pops
Silverstone


Joined: 15 Jul 2016
Posts: 108
Location: West Sussex


PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andyspencer100 wrote:
This is getting boring now.
I’m going to change the front and rear diff oil as well as the transfer case fluid as at 76k it might as well be done. And I’m hoping this improves things.

Any idea what oil to use? Castrol is what I’ve used on other cars and in my 997. It seems fairly DIY


Try this site. It gives you the recommended fluids for front and rear diffs, transfer case and transmission:
https://www.ravenol-direct.uk/which-oil.html
 
  
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Andyspencer100
Silverstone


Joined: 15 Jan 2016
Posts: 101



PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2018 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That’s brilliant thank you!

I’ve had another poke about under the car and found the rear most belly panel mounting, completely missing. So I’ve stuck it down to see if that’s the cause as it was just rattling against the gearbox mount.

It’s omproved it greatly. However, not completely so I do think you are right in that it’s something else against the chassis.

Once I can get it on jacks and crawl underneath I’ll track it down.
 
  
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deMort
Dijon


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 7004
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2018 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dam shame you are so far away .. i like jobs like this .. its a challenge !

Keep at it as i feel your getting there .. its a pain i know as all noises are but worth it in the end Thumb
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Andyspencer100
Silverstone


Joined: 15 Jan 2016
Posts: 101



PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2018 11:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FOUND IT!!!

It was the gearbox heatshield on the left side of the car. The small one with about 4 bolts holding it on. Or in my case 1. Allowing it to rattle like hell against the gearbox.

The car obviously has a natural resonance at c2000 rpm from exhaust drone I think, but the noise from this part coupled with that was unbearable. And now fixed!’

Thank you for the help. 👍
 
  
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deMort
Dijon


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 7004
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stuff me .. well done young man .. hard work Does pay off !

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Andyspencer100
Silverstone


Joined: 15 Jan 2016
Posts: 101



PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2018 6:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

deMort wrote:
Stuff me .. well done young man .. hard work Does pay off !

Thumb


Danke! It’s now totally smooth all the way up to 2000 rpm. Where there is still some resonating but I think that’s actually part of the cars natural nose. It sounds like exhaust drrrone more than anything. That said I’ll keep looking just in case.

The oil leak they were supposed to have fixed is still weeping..
 
  
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deMort
Dijon


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 7004
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2018 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gern geschehen.

The 2 common oil leaks on the diesel engines that i see are the turbo orange pipe at the back of the engine and above the gearbox leaks .. you usually get away with tightening it.

The other is the through bolts so o/s of the engine block there are several very long and fully threaded bolts .. there was a problem at the factory and these were not sealed correctly and oil can run down the threads.

The Porsche fix was a totally engine strip .. i find removeing the bolts .. cleaning , covering in gasket sealent and refitting works just as well .. and a wee bit cheaper Smile

Im not sure if you have the same engine but if you see an orange pipe on the turbo and long .. damp oilly bolts on the o/s of the block then you probably have !
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