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Phil 997
Le Mans
Le Mans


Joined: 05 Dec 2015
Posts: 15631
Location: Bournemouth,Dorset

2009 Porsche 997 Carrera 4S

PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2018 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PGD wrote:
Fantastic advice, this is great. Thanks guys

I’m thinking of going for the full kit, as the other side doesn’t look far off breaking.

Now, while the front is off do I drop some new AC rads in as the air con doesn’t work either. Though I haven’t pinpointed the fault to be the rads, it just seems pretty likely.

Also, I want to add some Grills to protect from further debris. But I was thinking of adding mesh behind the cutouts, as opposed to those grills which fit into them. I think I have some mesh in the garage which would be perfect for the job. Not quite sure how I’ll attach it yet mind!


Before you buy Rads for the AC and have already dropped the chassis , see if you can get ubder the car get the under trays off and have a look at the ac pipes running under the car , there are three potential places where it will be leaking 1/as you say one or both rads , quite straight forward to replace , 2 one or both straigh pipes running under the car , quite cheap for parts and quite easy to do 3/ split where the pipes running under the car go up over the rear axle into the engine bay , parts are quite cheap but traditionally this is an engine drop to do the job so 8 hrs labour but recently there have been discussions with guys who are looking to get a piece of custom flexipipe to fit in there this would negate having to drop the engine.
re the grilles
options are the zunsport front fitting ones not my favourite but are functional
or as your planning custon made DIY grilles this looks better IMO heres a thread to read about ensuring the mesh is not restricting airflow by having too tight a pattern and also what/how to fix in place

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/651055-mesh-grills-for-gts.html

dont forget the 5% discount for forum members from Design 911

911uk forum members discount code for design 911 is 911uk09 or PCGB005 also works
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PGD
Silverstone


Joined: 18 Jul 2018
Posts: 100



PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2018 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phil 997 wrote:

3/ split where the pipes running under the car go up over the rear axle into the engine bay , parts are quite cheap but traditionally this is an engine drop to do the job so 8 hrs labour but recently there have been discussions with guys who are looking to get a piece of custom flexipipe to fit in there this would negate having to drop the engine.

What's betting it's those that's the problem then. Esp as I've hosed the engine a little from in the wheel arches and seen the water go slightly green frustrated

Is this flexipipe available to buy yet?

Great post on the mesh, that's just what I had in mind and the mesh I have has larger holes than his, so no problem with airflow. However it will of course let very small debris in. Still far better than nothing!

Thanks for the discount codes too. I hadn't seen those yet Thumb
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PGD
Silverstone


Joined: 18 Jul 2018
Posts: 100



PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi again gents..

Thinking aloud for a moment.

Does this rear rubber hose have plastic inside or anything else?

I’ve just put our cooling system together on the kit car, and a thought ran through my mind which won’t appeal to the purists... the thought was, could I simply cut this joint out, and replace it with some good quality aftermarket hose like Samco?

So basically cut the end of the rubber hose off, use a pipe joiner to connect the new hose to it. Cut the end of the ally pipe off and slip the new hose over that. Clamp up.

It seems like a botch on a porsche, yet modified and kit car systems are made up entirely like this.
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IMG_5654-web.jpg
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Rear coolant hose, near side
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Phil 997
Le Mans
Le Mans


Joined: 05 Dec 2015
Posts: 15631
Location: Bournemouth,Dorset

2009 Porsche 997 Carrera 4S

PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cant answer that , if it can be done its a good solution but best get the thoughts of a tech etc like DeMort or someone thats done that Thumb I cant see it being that different to the flexihose option that I mentioned before it might need to be braided or something . I look forward to seeing what thoughts your given . Thumb
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deMort
Dijon


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 7692
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The hose end looks like the image below , ally end with a rubber seal .

The problem is if the ally pipe it goes into has corroded .. thats normally were the money is in replacing that... and as that seems to be the engine one by the gearbox then its an engine out job so circa 8 hrs labour .

The rubber pipes them selves would be some thing like £20 at a guess.

Inside the pipe and its just a normal rubber hose.

From your image then the ally pipe looks to be corroded , if you can get the rubber pipe out and that pipe is not corroded all the way through then just a new rubber pipe is needed .. and a lot of waxoil !
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PGD
Silverstone


Joined: 18 Jul 2018
Posts: 100



PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see what you mean about the pipe brackets being required deMort, mines only a few steps away from dust! I'll oder those and the bolts for both sides as you suggest.

I've got all the undertrays off for inspection now, and it's really quite clean under there. No big piles of crap like I was expecting. So that's good.

Several of the hoses look to be on the brink of leaking on the front, so I'm going to order the kit and replace the lot.

Here's what I was thinking about earlier, regarding cutting the bad joint out at the back. This method eliminates the need to drop the engine just to replace one pipe:

What do you think to this approach?
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deMort
Dijon


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 7692
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the idea young man .. it will save you taking the engine out thats for sure ..

The only problem i see is on all coolant pipes there is a lip on the metal pipe , the jubilee clip sits just behind this and it helps lock the rubber pipe in place.

You will have just a straight piece of metal with no lip .. hmm .. i think if it was me i would use x2 jubilee clips at each end to increase the clamp force and stop slippage of the pipe over time .
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Example of a lip where his finger is .
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PGD
Silverstone


Joined: 18 Jul 2018
Posts: 100



PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2018 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I thought the same about the lip, and doubling up clamps on that end. The hose joiner will have a lip, that’ll go between the new hose and old hose end.

Thanks for that Thumb
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Andy0
Newbie


Joined: 01 Dec 2019
Posts: 7



PostPosted: Fri Dec 13, 2019 4:59 pm    Post subject: Has anyone done this? Reply with quote

This 'bodge' makes sense to me, certainly until such time as a job requiring engine removal takes place. Had anyone done this at all?
 
  
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deMort
Dijon


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 7692
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Fri Dec 13, 2019 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I assume the OP did .

For me i wouldn't be happy unless i could have a lip on the joiner tube to make sure the pipe wont blow off .. you can't flare the existing pipe though , other than that it's a perfectly good solution and would last indefinitely ... access is often the problem with things like this though .
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She's not going until july 2020 though .



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PGD
Silverstone


Joined: 18 Jul 2018
Posts: 100



PostPosted: Sun Dec 15, 2019 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did indeed do this job. 4K miles later and it’s still doing its job just fine. After a heat cycle of the tubing (going for a drive so everything was up to temp) the clamps were nipped up and they haven’t been touched since.

I did use the bolt type clamps, they provide a much better clamping force over a wider area than regular jubilee clips.
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