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ragpicker
Estoril


Joined: 14 Apr 2013
Posts: 3913
Location: North East England


PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2018 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First time I've looked at this thread since my post on page 1. Looking good dude, these little gems really get under your skin don't they?

Loving the spoiler button. I've never known if my spoiler has worked in either of the boxsters I've had, you can't see it from the drivers seat so you just have to believe in its presence!

How easy/difficult was the switch to install?

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MarkGolf
Montreal


Joined: 13 Nov 2012
Posts: 588
Location: S.London


PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2018 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, yeah it really has. Considering I have always been anti-boxster, I do enjoy driving this and I love tinkering, so it's kept me busy.

Considering what you have done to yours, the switch will be childs play. It comes with very good instructions too so you can't go wrong.

A video to how it works

https://www.youtube.com/embed/ybdVlU6SY2c?rel=0
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deMort
Long Beach


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 6152
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2018 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

knocking noise is often the diagonal arms .. its a similar noise to a link rod.

Hard to prove as there isnt any play in it .. its just the design and its the part that bolts to the bodywork .

I have tryed in the past hitting the wheel with a large rubber hammer in the direction of the diagonal arm to try an prove it .. these days im afraid i just drive them and go .. Yup its got a diag arm knock .
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MarkGolf
Montreal


Joined: 13 Nov 2012
Posts: 588
Location: S.London


PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2018 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spot on, it sounds like something is hitting the body so I was pretty sure it was that arm, tuning fork, diagonal whatever it’s called. I tried wacking everything and pry barring everything but nothing to note.

I’ll get one and see if that sorts it, if so I’ll change the other side too!

Cheers!
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HSC911
Long Beach


Joined: 23 Jul 2014
Posts: 6277
Location: Bedford


PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2018 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great work buddy Thumb
 
  
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The return of Marty Wild
Barcelona


Joined: 04 Nov 2016
Posts: 1315



PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2018 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’ve been thinking of an interior LED conversion, always have done all of my other cars. Just didnt bring myself to do the Cayman in case I broke something.

Do you have a link to the LEDs you’ve done so far please?

Tempted to do all of them by chance? I just did my family wagon (mk6 GT) and it makes a big difference doesn’t it. Just waiting for the puddle lights (in the wing mirrors) to arrive and I’ll have done inside and out on the Golf.
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Cayman S 987.1
 
  
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deMort
Long Beach


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 6152
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2018 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure the led,s are short .. ive seen a Cayman with longer bulbs fitted .. i never new led,s got hot but they melted the door panel light units !




Diag arms and there is obviously 4 of them .. you need to find a good lump in the road somewhere and listen as the front then the rears go over it to see which axle needs doing.

Or pay me a visit .. our business estate has some excillent bumps .. i can say which ones in about 20 yards Very Happy

Imho they probably both will so x4 diags ... check each arm to see if there is original waxoil .. if so that confirms it .. 50k ish miles and they tend to start knocking .. 80k miles and i cant belive people dont replace them !!

You are only doing this for a noise though .. it makes no difference to the car or the handleing .
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The return of Marty Wild
Barcelona


Joined: 04 Nov 2016
Posts: 1315



PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2018 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah LEDs get super hot, another reason I didn’t whack them in on my P&J. That said, the halogen counterparts get mighty hot also.
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MarkGolf
Montreal


Joined: 13 Nov 2012
Posts: 588
Location: S.London


PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2018 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys!

The LEDs are just 501's, so nothing specific.

These are the ones I've got, they're pure white so no cheap blue tinge.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XENON-WHITE-5-SMD-501-T10-W5W-CANBUS-ERROR-FREE-LED-SIDELIGHTS-HIGH-POWER-UK/253742950741?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=553016390590&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I haven't changed the ones above the mirror and not sure what those are.

As for heat, I've noticed that in the past, didn't give it a second thought here, just wont keep the doors open long Grin

Everything does look original in terms of the arms, I'm convinced is the forward arm on the rear, it's always when the rear axle goes over a bump and the sound comes from behind the passenger seat but lets see after I swap it out.

The knock drives me insane so I hope this resolves it!
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MarkGolf
Montreal


Joined: 13 Nov 2012
Posts: 588
Location: S.London


PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The knock from the rear has GONE!!! thumbsup

Changing the passenger side rear control arm sorted it, getting the old one off, it was clearly original and once removed, the ball joint had zero resistance, extremely loose.

I had the new arm a few days prior, paid £52 from eBay, advertised as a TRW part. When it arrived, I found it odd that it appeared to have identical markings to an original porsche part, albeit, with the porsche logo ground off.

The pictures will show the similarities, it is definitely an OEM part, everything is identical, down to the rubber boot.







Result!

Easy job, 30 mins tops! Wheel off, 2 bolts and swap. Ordered another to do the other side now.

While that wheel was off, I thought I would go and fit the new rear tyres. The car currently has PS2's all around but the rears had puncture repairs which I'm never too keen on and while the wheel was off, I discovered another bloody screw!

I opted for PS3's, because I had trouble getting PS2's but thinking about it, should have gone for PS4's. Oh well. I had looked forward to getting the rear tyres off as they were the wrong profile.

Check out the size difference, it did always look like a dragster!





Newbs




Gave the arches a quick clean (I did treat the plastics after the pic)





Gave the car a clean and quick wax



First drive, no more knocking! Totally gone, no bangs at all. Night and day difference, so for that alone, changing the arm was worth it.

The car also no longer rocks side to side, going over uneven road at over 40, the car would sometimes feel like it would rock over to one side as the profile of the road changed, it didn't feel great but I wasn't sure if it was a mid engined car thing. I will take a guess at that being down to the larger profile tyres.

So, I am happy some more progress has been made with sorting this car out.

I had a few days booked away in the Cotswolds, I had planned to take my 997 but opted to take the Boxster in the end. I have to say, I am really enjoying it. Got us there comfortable and was a great car for the roads around the area, I was feeling happy with the correct profile rear tyres and lack of knocks.

Had some good beading



On the way up to Moreton in Marsh, stopped outside the PCGB, didn't expect to go here but I noticed it on the map for the route in to town so thought I'd have a look.



On the way out, I noticed Rennsport! So popped in there, really nice place and the guy we spoke to was great, totally missed his name but a top bloke who talked us around the cars and what they do!













Now I just need to wait 31 years until I can retire up there!





Once I got back home, I noticed that there was a knock from the front! FFS!!! So that's next on my list, along with sorting out the vibrating brakes which may well be related.
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deMort
Long Beach


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 6152
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TRW make say 500 diag arms .. Porsche buys 400 so they are left with 100 .. they grind off the porsche logo and sell them as OEM .. basically its the same part .

Porsche are cracking down hard on manufactuors that do this so stocks are dwindleing .. TRW being hit hard for this sort of thing... im supprised you could still get them .. coffin arms and im pretty sure you cant .

The noise is an annoyance .. not a fault as such and your car as mentioned is about the right age for pretty much needing all 4 .. front end noise might be the same but you know what it sounds like now so you can easily say if it is .

I always advise porsche parts .. the company spends a lot of time developing and testing these parts whilst third party maybe not so much .. hence things like Powerflex bushes ? i think it was Ragpicker who had an arm snap with these fitted ?

Not sure but as usual i say my bit .. recommend Porsche and move on Very Happy

Nothing like useing a wodden spoon to stir it up then walk away i feel Floor

Glad its fixed though young man !

Car is looking gooooood.
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MarkGolf
Montreal


Joined: 13 Nov 2012
Posts: 588
Location: S.London


PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2018 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Iain!

Might stock up on the TRW items before they're long gone Floor

I have had good and bad experience with powerflex, I don't think I would use them on ally arms, I have seen a few snap and not just Porsche. Mainly drop links mind. I've had a set crumble away on my M3. Other cars, spot on. I won't fit them on this as I need to keep this comfortable for the missus.

I need to drive the boxster again to work out where the noise is coming from and if it is the same, I'm 90% sure it is the passenger side front, same noise as the rear but not as loud. Will have a drive and a poke but as you say, it's at the miles where they will all need doing. Perhaps that will fix the brakes but it does feel like a dodgy disc as the pulsing is felt through pedal and steering from high speed down to a stop with heavy pressure, which remains consistent

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deMort
Long Beach


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 6152
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2018 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It wont fix the brakes im afraid .

A warped disc .. on the front and you get brake pedal pulseing and steering judder depending on how bad .. rears and its just the brake pedal pulseing .

A disc run out is needed to check them .. if no dti gauge then hold a screw driver against a caliper and just touching the disc .. then rotate to see if you have any high spots.
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MarkGolf
Montreal


Joined: 13 Nov 2012
Posts: 588
Location: S.London


PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Iain!

I was about to buy a dti gauge but before hand, tried the screw driver method which worked! Also, noticing a gap between the pad and disc helped too. Drivers side inside is *****. Couldn't even turn it by hand so had to use my wheel brace for leverage, the runout was clear as day to see and there was a ton of what looked like metal shavings around the back of the caliper.
Passenger side was ok.

I've gone for a pair of Brembo discs over the Pagids, slightly more expensive but I trust the quality of Brembo items, although I had never had bad experience of Pagid to be honest.
I was debating a drilled set but for how the car is used, no point, although they do look better but the extra brake dust generated by drilled discs would annoy me and it is never going to be used hard enough to warrant the extra cooling. So standard vented ones it is.

While I was poking around, I wanted to check the condition of the belt and see the front of the engine.





Belt is on the way out, is an original part so god knows when that was last changed, new one ordered from Euros. 6PK 2115 for anyone interested.

Oh, and no knocking from the front, none what so ever, must have been hearing things.
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deMort
Long Beach


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 6152
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No Knock .. No fix .. so that job is done Very Happy

That belt is a wee bit more than 6 years old i feel !

Have a wiggle of the water pump whilst the belt is off and a spin of the idler pullys .. something we lot tend to do without thinking about so i nearly didnt post that bit here !
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MarkGolf
Montreal


Joined: 13 Nov 2012
Posts: 588
Location: S.London


PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny you mention that, I remembered that the seller said he changed the thermostats and water pump as it let go on a trip to Italy.. I checked the receipts and yup, had a new water pump a year and a half ago.. I guess the belt was ok looking back then. Was a nice plus point to have had that done along with the IMS!

Did some future proofing with some bolt hamber and waxoyl to brake lines and seams too, ready for winter!
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deMort
Long Beach


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 6152
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awww that reminds me .. i expect you have already done it but these cars along with 996 suffer badly with corrosion on the brake pipes under the L shaped panel n/s of the car.

So just in case have a good look at the pipes and mainly in the brackets as thats were they rot through.

Whilst at it some protection , waxoil / acf50 on the clutch slave cyl pipe .. basically i like a lot of this stuff over everything you can get at under the car Very Happy

Phil 997 loves to take the mickey here Very Happy but you cant beat a lot of underbody protection imho !
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MarkGolf
Montreal


Joined: 13 Nov 2012
Posts: 588
Location: S.London


PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks again Iain,

Yep, got those covered, it was seeing those and your 997 post that made me sort them and other areas out. The last thing I want to be doing is replacing brake line, hate them! It's a job I am putting off on a Golf VR6 of mine where I fitted braided lines throughout but now want to fit as much hardline as poss due to a spongy pedal, really don't want to do it.

I agree, you can't beat it, not with winter about to hit, salt! eh! Sad Confused

8 o clock last night, wife was out and I got bored, so thought I would change the front discs and fit the new belt. I thought I would do the easiest job last, so did the discs first. Dead easy, a 45 min job tops, even with 1 stuck screw, dremel sorted that.

Disc off



Brembo replacement



The cut stuck screw, refitted the screws and applied copper grease on the threads, will replace that screw. 2 per disc.



Job done, nice and easy.

Now the job that should have taken me 15 mins ended up taking 45-1 hour and I didn't even complete it!

Got the old belt off



But for the life of me, I just couldn't get the new one on!! When laid out and pulled, it was the same length as the one I removed but where it had been coiled up in the packaging, I think this was costing me some length. The belt had been in the garage so was cold, I tried soaking it hot water but as I wanted to just get the job done, it was late and I did the job outside of the garage so I got caught in a flash downpour too, I had enough so 5 mins or so probably wasn't long enough for it..

I admitted defeat and refitted the original belt, went on without fuss. FFS!!

Sad

I have now kept the new belt in doors and stretched it out and will have another go, it is a continental belt, never ever ever ever had a problem replacing a drive belt and it's a decent brand. (Don't pull the Porsche part only wand on me Iain! Floor Floor Floor )

I will beat it!!
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deMort
Long Beach


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 6152
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lol .. it doesnt have to be a Porsche belt .. as long as its the same length then its fine .

New belt will be tight .. it might be that the tensioner is slipping a bit when you move it to get the new belt on.

24 mm spanner , push to the n/s as much as possible .. if the spanner moves the bolt then you have to get at the nut at the rear with another spanner .. this is a pain and i hate it when it happens ... another person with a lever bar sometimes helps in this situation .

To fit the belt then i would fit it over all the pullys bar the idler one next to the tensioner (make sure the belt is fully home in all the ribbed pullys )

Then move the tensioner and pull it over the idler pully ... which on your picture would be the lowest one .

i think the tensioner 24mm bolt is moving and thats why you are struggleing .. old belt will be more stretched than the new one so you are having to move the tensioner further .


EDIT ..

Just to say if the belt wont fit over all the pullys excludeing the last idler before moveing the tensioner pully then there something wrong.
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MarkGolf
Montreal


Joined: 13 Nov 2012
Posts: 588
Location: S.London


PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Iain,

I had a breaker bar on the tensioner and was able to lean on it while fitting the belt, I was able to move the tensioner to the point it was squishing the belts together between 2 pulleys, I could get it in all the pulleys but just not the tensioner, just! I think once the belt is straightened out it will be ok, with me getting soaked and it being 10pm, I wasn’t being the most patient!

Do you guys ever do gearbox fluid swaps on these?
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1991 Mercedes 500SL
1979 Mercedes 280e
1995 VW Golf VR6 3.0
 
  
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