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Dammit
Watkins Glen


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 2152



PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the links, however I have spent some time now preparing the cars wiring for the Becker (including dismantling and re-constructing the brand new loom I got with the Focal), complete with its line-level/pre-amp outputs.

= I'd like to stick with a Becker of some kind.

I've actually got one of those Continentals in the garage - it's what I tested the wiring with when the Becker would not boot. I could use that, if I spend some time reverting all the wiring to amplified outputs.
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Halcyon
Imola


Joined: 02 Nov 2015
Posts: 813
Location: Somerset


PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like it's time to double check all the power & vehicle signal wires Sad
It worked before you took it out, I take it?
you've checked the obvious 12V, IGN and GND feeds I take it.. I'm not sure what else the Becker needs... Wiring diagram?
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Dammit
Watkins Glen


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Becker worked this morning, I then attached a wire to the subwoofer pin in the mini-iso connector and connected another ground to the shared ground, again in the mini-iso connector.

I then plugged in the Focal piggy-back harness, which replicates all original wiring whilst tapping into switched power, remote start and ground.

I plugged the Becker back in to check that it all worked, and the Becker would not power up.

No changes were made to power, ground or switched power, other than plugging in the piggyback harness.

I unplugged the piggy-back harness, the Becker still would not power up when connected to the original wiring, from which it powered up this morning.

I then plugged the (brand new, up until that point in it's box) Continental in, and that powered straight up.

I then checked the piggy-back harness with the Conti, and it powered straight up with that also.
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Halcyon
Imola


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fuse on the rear of the Becker unit? Question
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asterix_the_gaul
Barcelona


Joined: 20 Dec 2008
Posts: 1262
Location: Cheshire

1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the point where I huff and puff and go for a beer. That's really irritating the Becker won't play ball, are you sure the pin outs are the same from Becker to the continental¿? It's not something simple like it's popped it's fuse¿?
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1999 996 C2 Coupe, Ocean Blue/Graphite grey
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Dammit
Watkins Glen


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 2152



PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I checked the fuse in the back of the Becker, and the fuses in the fuse panel, then I swapped them even though to the eye they were fine.

I made no changes to the factory wiring apart from connecting to the subwoofer line-out and shared ground, so even if I made a mistake in the piggy-back harness and swapped two wires over, when I unplugged that and plugged the Becker into the factory wiring literally nothing was different from a power perspective/plug A perspective.
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Dammit
Watkins Glen


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can anyone make sense of the last post on this page?

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=230&t=1673566

Is it saying that pin 6 on socket C1 is the remote start signal for the factory supplied radio, and that this is what wakes the amp?

As that's the only way I can make sense of what is being suggested here - and when I look at the pictures that I took today I can see that my remote start cable has another cable spliced into it which may well be the one mentioned.
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Halcyon
Imola


Joined: 02 Nov 2015
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Location: Somerset


PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I only have the wiring diagrams up to 2000
initially, I thought "No way" as it looks like you would be introducing a 12V feed to an line level output..

But on my wiring diagram:
Yellow Plug C1 Pin 6 is clearly marked "Plus Switched"
and goes to V7 12+ on the amp

so it's not a sub out at all?

also, to confuse you, it's black & red, not black & brown.

The blue wire from my head unit splices into that to send the "switch on" signal to my amp, in the funk.
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Last edited by Halcyon on Mon Dec 17, 2018 10:17 pm; edited 1 time in total
 
  
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Halcyon
Imola


Joined: 02 Nov 2015
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Location: Somerset


PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

in fact, according to the diagram, there is no sub output from the head unit on "Audio Option Pack M490" which is what i believe we both had originally. (6 speaker HK / Nokia system)
The only "Deep range" output is available as speaker lever at the amp.
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Dammit
Watkins Glen


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, that makes sense then - the tape deck that I had in the car when I got it can't have had a subwoofer output, but rather had the remote start on that pin.
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Halcyon
Imola


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wiring diagram
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Dammit
Watkins Glen


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 2152



PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers, that's the one that I have used to wire my short harness so I hope it is correct!

I don't see anything there that would explain why the Cascade Pro has stopped working though.
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eabeukes
Monza


Joined: 30 Jan 2018
Posts: 167
Location: Aylesbury

1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The amp takes 2 votlages - one is a 12v signal from the headunit that does power-on/off/sounds and the other ise the actual 12v power that feeds it to apmplify. The 12v remote-start should be asupplied from the back of the headunit, and on the OEM unit was just a 'remote start' to turn on the amp, with audio coming from the left/right outputs. In your new one, you'll need to bridge the output to a 12v source as per the PH diagram, otherwise your amp wont turn on due to a 'normal' line-level sub out being 2-3v
 
  
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Dammit
Watkins Glen


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 2152



PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's done, had to be when I swapped to the Becker.

Speaking of which, the Becker lives!

Mixed score for BMW- correct pins, wrong plug:


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Halcyon
Imola


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dammit wrote:

Speaking of which, the Becker lives!


What was the issue??
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Dammit
Watkins Glen


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chap reckons I plugged it in with the ignition on, which is probably true.

He’s not the most communicative, but my assumption is that he replaced something that “saw too much currant”, although why the fuse didn’t blow is a question.
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Ghianightmare
Spa-Francorchamps


Joined: 25 Apr 2017
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Location: Dublin


PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dammit,

As my hertz 100.3s arrived, pulled out my front speaker housing to compare them (before Santa takes them to give them back to me) and measure the impedance.

First off, the OEM Bose units are decent enough quality, albeit 19 year old design and mine are physically nearly 17 years old. They have a standardish 4 screw pattern and at held in place with a plastic adapter - almost identical to the one you recycled from the Nokia speaker. Therefore one option for you is to find a scrapped 996 with Bose and salvage them rather than making them. There is a Bose stamp on it and no Porsche P/N.

I will have to elongate the hertz mount holes a little and possibly trim the end of the mounting tabs, but a simple job. I didn’t have my phone to take photos, but I’ll do than after Christmas when. I’m swapping them and do a write up like yours.

Also, not relevant to you job, but as I’m typing, the main speaker is circa 1.8 ohm per my multi meter. The separate tweeter has some sort of resistor or capacitor frequency thingy, so can’t measure resistance upstream of that. Bypassing the thingy, I get 4 ohms. So to sum up, I have no clue what that means in reality, so I will stick in my 4 ohm hertz composite speakers and let the results speak for themselves ... Dont know
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Dammit
Watkins Glen


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 2152



PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I updated my "conversion" technique, dropping the Dremel and utilising a pair of tin-snips. The new technique results in the 100.3 being mounted in around 30 seconds to the tear-drop shaped cover.

Apparently my Logic7 harness is at Heathrow currently, so hopefully it will make it's way here shortly - it's been at Heathrow for 3 days so far it appears.

My alloy sheet (for making the mount) is currently "location unknown", as the courier has done something mysterious with it. I don't think I'm going to get this all finalised before NY now, and I'm in California and then Colorado in January so it might be Feb before it's all back together.
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Dammit
Watkins Glen


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2019 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Plugging away still:


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Dammit
Watkins Glen


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2019 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote




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