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MisterCorn
Dijon


Joined: 08 Jan 2011
Posts: 7218
Location: Nottingham, England

2004 Porsche 996 Turbo

PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Top work, it is looking great.

MC
 
  
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Dammit
Indianapolis


Joined: 23 Sep 2016
Posts: 2301



PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Impressive stuff.
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Jamesx19
Nürburgring


Joined: 10 Jul 2015
Posts: 471
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2018 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks MC / Dammit,

Lessons for anyone else attempting this in a similar fashion are:

1.) Get a jack that lifts to at least 530mm - essential.
2.) Raise the car to at least 550 mm under rear Jack points, and 850mm under the rear cross member, otherwise you'll be in a world of pain getting the engine out from under the car without having to remove bits of intake manifold first.
3.) A crane hoist works well....
4.) Secure the gearbox to the Jack when lifting or lowering the engine and gearbox together as the lot will tilt if you only use a block of wood like I did....
5.) The gearbox is a heavy SOB! How ELA and Infrasilver manage to remove it on the floor of their workshops is a great feat of strength and ingenuity! (Edited for spelling mistake!)

Will update when running.....
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Last edited by Jamesx19 on Mon Jul 09, 2018 4:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
 
  
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wasz
Sepang


Joined: 28 Dec 2012
Posts: 2979


1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not really noticed mine ticking at low idle. Maybe because I use 10w40 Millers rather than 5w40 Mobil? Shouldn't be much different when hot though.

----

The aircon compressor is hard to get out when its in situ if you have never done it before because the rear bolt is hard to find.

But putting one in is easy as you can see where the bolt needs to be, but you can't see the bolt with the compressor in. When mine failed I whipped it in and out several times (out to see if it failed, in to drive around while new one came, out swap for new one bit not hook up pipes, in to drive to air con specialist, out to clean out the line sand hook up, and finally back in to recharge the system). So by the time Id finished I could do it with my eyes closed.
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My special order MY99 Vesuvious Charcoal 996 | Clutch, Fly RMS IMS AOS Job |
Steering Rack Hard Lines | Air Con Compressor / System
 
  
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Marky911
Magny-Cours


Joined: 04 Jun 2009
Posts: 2564



PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brilliant work James. worship

Nearly there now. Thumb
My Indy always recommends having the air-con on as the engines are much happier at tickover.


You're also telling me Demort does house calls now?? I think I might need to relocate down south. Very Happy
Good work Demort, as ever.
 
  
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BHZ661
Barcelona


Joined: 03 Feb 2015
Posts: 1332
Location: Milton Keynes


PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fantastic work , thumbsup
 
  
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infrasilver
Fast & Furious
Fast & Furious


Joined: 04 Oct 2010
Posts: 8401
Location: East Midlands

2001 Porsche 996 Targa

PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad to see it pushed back home and hopefully you'll have it back up and running soon.

How many miles have been recommended for the running in period?
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Jamesx19
Nürburgring


Joined: 10 Jul 2015
Posts: 471
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the comments....

Wasz - a new compressor is £180. Not sure it's that, but looks like it's been leaking from a pressure relief valve thing on the side of the housing. Can't see leaks from anywhere else, so I'll give it a go.

Marky - Roads are better ooop north I reckon, but no DeMort on demand!!!

Infrasilver - running in, basic oil 20-30 mins - 20 -30 miles. Not babied and not thrashed or laboured, but something in between to bed in the rings. Brisk, shall we say?

Change oil and filter. (Don't look at it, I'll panic!) Then 2000 miles on a semi synthetic, driven robustly not red lined or full chat by any stretch. Change oil and filter Miller's nano+ good to go.....

If the rings are not bedded in in first 20 mins, then they may polish the honing making the running in process much longer....

That is my understanding anyway.

Couldn't find a cheap mineral oil I liked so have Miller's CRO competition running in oil. Under £40 for 10 litres from Opie Oils.
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asterix_the_gaul
Barcelona


Joined: 20 Dec 2008
Posts: 1281
Location: Cheshire

1999 Porsche 996 Carrera 2

PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2018 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A whole load of stuff about a rebuild run in I never knew which might be of interest.. http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014/10/break-in-oils-and-assembly-lube-needs/
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1992 944 S2 Cabriolet, Cobalt Blue/Classic grey -gone!
1995 993 C2 Cabriolet, Midnight Blue/Marble grey -gone!
1999 996 C2 Coupe, Ocean Blue/Graphite grey
2002 E46 M3 Cabriolet, Laguna seca blue/LSB
 
  
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Jamesx19
Nürburgring


Joined: 10 Jul 2015
Posts: 471
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2018 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting article. Thanks.
Lots of opinions and things to think about isn't there?
[/b]
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Jamesx19
Nürburgring


Joined: 10 Jul 2015
Posts: 471
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still not had a chance to start her up yet.

Just a note to say, following a conversation with Grant. The Miller's CRO running in oil maybe a bit aggressive for my needs. The bores are already plateau honed and brushed. So will source some straight mineral oil.My local motor factor has 10w30 Granville Hypalube. So will go with that for the first 20 mins or miles.

Cheers to Asterix again for the article. Reading that and speaking to Grant has given me a better appreciation for what's required
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Bluebird911
Nürburgring


Joined: 29 May 2010
Posts: 453



PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great thread, excellent work! Thumb
 
  
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Jamesx19
Nürburgring


Joined: 10 Jul 2015
Posts: 471
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Bluebird.

Blasted thing won't start!

No fuel at the fuel filter. I did pull the fuel pump fuse to give it a 5 sec crank to check oil pressure. Replaced, but no fuel coming through. I've closed everything. Locked, unlocked several times, in case it's an imobiliser on the alarm system, but no luck.

Any thoughts? Cheers
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deMort
Dijon


Joined: 21 Mar 2015
Posts: 7267
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sent you my number via pm
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.

My Daughter's Crowdfunding has hit the target see Here

Thank you all so Very much .

She's not going until july 2020 though .



Mechanic

7pm - 9pm

Now At An Indy.
 
  
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Jamesx19
Nürburgring


Joined: 10 Jul 2015
Posts: 471
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, were starting with checking the fuel pump........
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infrasilver
Fast & Furious
Fast & Furious


Joined: 04 Oct 2010
Posts: 8401
Location: East Midlands

2001 Porsche 996 Targa

PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you check fault codes as crank sensor could be an issue?
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Jamesx19
Nürburgring


Joined: 10 Jul 2015
Posts: 471
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Infra, thanks,

Only have a cheap code reader. But it connects. Showing no DTC or I/m codes.

It is a possibility, as we snagged the crank sensor wire getting the engine out. I did check it for continuity, which was ok. Pin 1 to Pin 3. Resistance was around 950ohms which was a little high I thought.

DeMort thinking fuel supply should not be dependent on getting a crank signal, so trying fuel pump first.

I'll get it out and bench test it.

Do we think 5 months without use may have seized the pump? I'm sure I saw a post saying someone had encountered a similar issue in the same circumstances.??






.
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Jamesx19
Nürburgring


Joined: 10 Jul 2015
Posts: 471
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just found this:

http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=125251&highlight=fuel+pump

Might help. Will try and jump the relay to check the pump pumps!
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thecarfixer
Monza


Joined: 03 Nov 2016
Posts: 166



PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should get a few second pump prime without having to crank the engine when you first turn the ignition on, do you?
 
  
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Jamesx19
Nürburgring


Joined: 10 Jul 2015
Posts: 471
Location: Brighton


PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Carfixer,

No, but then I have never heard a pump come on that I remember.

Is there anyone with an early cable throttle 996 that can answer that one?

Fuel pump seems ok. I used a jumper wire across the relay pins which switched the pump on. I could hear it running which it didn't before, and there is now fuel in the injector rail which was dry.

I tested the relay with multimeter and a fused jumper wire onto the battery. I could hear it clicking.

Is there a pressure switch in the fuel system? If not, I can't see that the pump would prime then cut off until the engine cranks?

Crank sensor next? The tachometer never flinched when cranking. Or something else you reckon?

Cheers Jim
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