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wilsonny
Silverstone


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 122
Location: Montreal


PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 10:37 pm    Post subject: Immobiliser socket Reply with quote

One of the contact springs in my immobilizer socket is looking a bit flat so thinking of changing it as a precaution. Before i ring h and p to order one, can anyone give any idea of how easy this is to change ? Mine is located right up under the clock and appears to go through the bulk head into that awkward to reach place under the windscreen where the radio booster is. Looks a nightmare to reach from the back and i don't like to start to pull on it from the front because it looks like it's got a threaded socket.

Anyone swapped one ?
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gunner
Hockenheim


Joined: 04 Jul 2014
Posts: 652
Location: Kent


PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine isn't used anymore (immobilser is remote) but not sure how easy to remove?
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wilsonny
Silverstone


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 122
Location: Montreal


PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2018 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gunner wrote:
Mine isn't used anymore (immobilser is remote) but not sure how easy to remove?


Got the answer of all places from the pcgb forum .... seems the socket pulls out from the front and a new one can be soldered in. Spoke to h and a to confirm and have ordered a socket (they call it a receptical) and a new immobiliser fob for around fifty quid each.
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Kat1
Silverstone


Joined: 04 Nov 2010
Posts: 147
Location: Ely, Cambs


PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 5:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Immobiliser socket Reply with quote

wilsonny wrote:
One of the contact springs in my immobiliser socket is looking a bit flat so thinking of changing it as a precaution.


Coincidentally whilst using my car today I had issues getting the engine to crank over. (This is the first time)

By repeated wriggling of the immobiliser it would start which suggested an issue with the immobiliser contacts.

The following picture shows that all but one of mine appear a bit flat.



I managed to prise the immobiliser socket out which leaves about 50 mm of wiring which appears to have heat shrink on it.
Presumably once the heat shrink is removed you can access the previously solder joints and replace the socket.

Looks like a call to H & P first thing tomorrow.

Has anyone any relevant advice?
 
  
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wilsonny
Silverstone


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 122
Location: Montreal


PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 6:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Immobiliser socket Reply with quote

Kat1 wrote:
wilsonny wrote:
One of the contact springs in my immobiliser socket is looking a bit flat so thinking of changing it as a precaution.


Coincidentally whilst using my car today I had issues getting the engine to crank over. (This is the first time)

By repeated wriggling of the immobiliser it would start which suggested an issue with the immobiliser contacts.

The following picture shows that all but one of mine appear a bit flat.



I managed to prise the immobiliser socket out which leaves about 50 mm of wiring which appears to have heat shrink on it.
Presumably once the heat shrink is removed you can access the previously solder joints and replace the socket.

Looks like a call to H & P first thing tomorrow.

Has anyone any relevant advice?


I've not fitted mine yet but this is what is supplied from HandA for the receptacle and also the new immobiliser fob which i was surprised to see has the original looking sticker. Lady on the phone described the replacement process as essentially pulling out the socket, cutting wires and soldering in the new socket taking care to match wire colours.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PPOY6gXkR9lyFbXq1
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Kat1
Silverstone


Joined: 04 Nov 2010
Posts: 147
Location: Ely, Cambs


PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of your pics shows the black heat shrink adjacent to the socket - this is what I was expecting to cut and shut.



However I will investigate where the wire goes to see if it might be easier to solder the far end of the new wire.

I'll get back to you.
 
  
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wilsonny
Silverstone


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 122
Location: Montreal


PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kat1 wrote:


However I will investigate where the wire goes to see if it might be easier to solder the far end of the new wire.

I'll get back to you.


I have not yet fully traced the lead but my receptacle is in the same place as yours by the look and my current thought is that it runs behind the dials, descends in front of the fresh air flap behind the dash, joins the wiring loom and goes back to the ignition. This is just from my provisional looking around but it had convinced me so far that it was only practical to replace the receptical end and resolder.

Be interested to know if you find anything more concrete.
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Kat1
Silverstone


Joined: 04 Nov 2010
Posts: 147
Location: Ely, Cambs


PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I spoke to the lady at H&P and she is sending a new part out today.

I have also striped back the shrink wrap on the existing "receiver" to reveal six wires of which only four are connected to the receiver. (The short white "wire" is just a filler with no copper in it)

The black and red which according to H&P go to the light, do not appear to have been connected to the receiver or each other.

I would welcome any advise as to what to do with these wires.





I am going to cut and replace at this end as advised by H&P - will post some photos as I go.

I also understand that the male part has a unique code that needs to be programmed into any replacement.

Some OPCs have a suitable reader or you can send the original one back to H&P who will read it and program the new one.

There is also an outside chance that the code is on the outside of the immobiliser under the seat.

I do not know if it is related but for the last couple of years the audible sound that occurred when you paired the two items stopped working. I will soon find out.

I hope the postman comes early tomorrow as this car is currently my daily driver and I need to get some wine for the weekend.
 
  
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wilsonny
Silverstone


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 122
Location: Montreal


PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kat1 wrote:
I spoke to the lady at H&P and she is sending a new part out today.

I also understand that the male part has a unique code that needs to be programmed into any replacement.

Some OPCs have a suitable reader or you can send the original one back to H&P who will read it and program the new one.

I hope the postman comes early tomorrow as this car is currently my daily driver and I need to get some wine for the weekend.


My immobiliser code was on a security card in with the car paperwork... it is a 5 digit number. Took about 3 days for my parts to come from h and a.

Thanks for posting the pics. Gives me a bit more confidence to pull a bit harder on the socket which seems reluctant to budge.
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Kat1
Silverstone


Joined: 04 Nov 2010
Posts: 147
Location: Ely, Cambs


PostPosted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kat1 wrote:

The black and red which according to H&P go to the light, do not appear to have been connected to the receiver or each other.

I would welcome any advice as to what to do with these wires.



To answer my own question - I will test the continuity of the new loom and receiver when it arrives.
 
  
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wilsonny
Silverstone


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 122
Location: Montreal


PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got cracking replacing my socket today. Wiggled the socket out but found that i could not get it more than about 30mm away from dash due to cable length. I have the kneepad off at the moment so could confirm the cable passed behined dials and there was no slack down to where it disappears into the tunnel. Decided to cut the end off the socket, remove speedo and pull cable through the speedo hole to make the rejoining easier and allow soldering away from the delicate dash. In progress pics here...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PPOY6gXkR9lyFbXq1
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ColinC
Österreich


Joined: 16 May 2013
Posts: 934
Location: Sunny Central Scotland


PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good work fella thumbsup

My immobiliser works fine .....but I'm putting it on the list anyway Grin
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Allan E
Silverstone


Joined: 17 Jun 2017
Posts: 104
Location: Rowlands Gill, Tyne & Wear


PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 11:22 am    Post subject: Immobiliser Reply with quote

My car has the immobiliser socket fitted however at some stage in its life an ”Autowatch” system (Thatcham approved) was fitted. This is basically similar to a factory transponder but not fitted into the ignition key, so not affected by flat key batteries. The transponder is attached to the ignition key and is recognised when the key is put in the ignition lock.
Can someone tell me when these immobiliser sockets were discontinued as a standard fitment, and to which models.
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wilsonny
Silverstone


Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 122
Location: Montreal


PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 12:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Immobiliser Reply with quote

Allan E wrote:
My car has the immobiliser socket fitted however at some stage in its life an ”Autowatch” system (Thatcham approved) was fitted. This is basically similar to a factory transponder but not fitted into the ignition key, so not affected by flat key batteries. The transponder is attached to the ignition key and is recognised when the key is put in the ignition lock.
Can someone tell me when these immobiliser sockets were discontinued as a standard fitment, and to which models.


Other more knowledgeable folks will be along soon on this matter... but i believe my car is quite unusual for a1996 to have just the basic Porsche alarm, physical key only and the immobiliser. I think most in 1996 had the integrated remote unlock/disarm and updated alarm. There's acouple of posts on this subject in this forum in the past.

Mine had a separate tracker fitted later behind the drivers side foot well carpet with its own battery backup. Id cheerfully slap the "professionals" who did this and butchered the wiring loom and drilled through the arch... all removed and fixed now, but what a terrible job.
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Kat1
Silverstone


Joined: 04 Nov 2010
Posts: 147
Location: Ely, Cambs


PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 50 mm of spare cable was sufficient to enable me to solder the four wires without needing to remove the speedo. (black and red are not used)

I reduced the length of the new loom by about two thirds and then used a very similar method to solder the wires as Wilsonny - solder, heat shrink and PVC heat wrap.

You need a low wattage soldering iron, thin solder and to be quick on these very thin wires or you melt the insulation. If you are not familiar with soldering thin wires than practice on the redundant bits.

The good news is that the car engine now turns over and starts so the receptacle was the cause of the "starting" problem.

I am a great believer in preventative maintenance on the 993 but in the last 13 years or so I do not recall any one posting about the need to replace this receptacle.

H&P have then on the shelf and say that they are a fast moving item so I would suggest that is something to add to the "preventative replacement" list.
 
  
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bodmin
Trainee


Joined: 12 Oct 2011
Posts: 66
Location: Edinburgh


PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please excuse my ignorance, but who / what is H & P?
 
  
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Kat1
Silverstone


Joined: 04 Nov 2010
Posts: 147
Location: Ely, Cambs


PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bodmin wrote:
Please excuse my ignorance, but who / what is H & P?


As I understand all or most 993 sold in the UK had an Thatcham approved immobiliser fitted by Porsche UK - They subcontracted the work out to Hamilton and Palmer (H&P) who are near Sevenoaks in Kent TN15 6PL.

As the immobiliser is not Porsche Germany manufactured, then if any parts are required you need to go to H&P.
 
  
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bodmin
Trainee


Joined: 12 Oct 2011
Posts: 66
Location: Edinburgh


PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kat1 wrote:
bodmin wrote:
Please excuse my ignorance, but who / what is H & P?


As I understand all or most 993 sold in the UK had an Thatcham approved immobiliser fitted by Porsche UK - They subcontracted the work out to Hamilton and Palmer (H&P) who are near Sevenoaks in Kent TN15 6PL.

As the immobiliser is not Porsche Germany manufactured, then if any parts are required you need to go to H&P.


Thanks - I'll keep a note of that.
 
  
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